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· BACK TO THE FUTURE!!!
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18,750 Posts
So, after further review, tires are good for another month. Also, rear brakes in better shape than last time as well.

Just will need cat converter for inspection.

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· Crusing in Montana
2015 Accord Sport, I-4, CVT
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5,255 Posts
I'm looking at all-weathers as we speak.
All-weather tires are better than all-seasons in winter, but they're still not a substitute for true winter tires. Unfortunately, such tires are necessary here, as we regularly see temperatures well below 0 F each winter.

So, I need to get four 18" rims. That's about $800 if I can't find rims on Craigslist or some such place. Then add another $900 or so for the tires themselves. Or I could just pay $100 a year and have the tire shop dismount/mount them 2x a year.

Neither are good options.
 

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2017 Accord LX 6MT Modern Steel Metallic
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482 Posts
All-weather tires are better than all-seasons in winter, but they're still not a substitute for true winter tires. Unfortunately, such tires are necessary here, as we regularly see temperatures well below 0 F each winter.

So, I need to get four 18" rims. That's about $800 if I can't find rims on Craigslist or some such place. Then add another $900 or so for the tires themselves. Or I could just pay $100 a year and have the tire shop dismount/mount them 2x a year.

Neither are good options.
Why 18"? These are for the snows? Just want them? I don't know if 16" will fit but 17" definitely should. You can get from various Honda models as long as bolt pattern is the same. You can also expand to Acura, or Hyundai and Nissan. The Hyundai and Nissan have a slightly larger center bore.

I run Hyundai Elantra 17" alloy for my summer with a 3mm spacer ring. I did get new lug nuts as my Hyundai ones were 21mm vs Accords 19mm.

Somewhere in the posts I think I saw that the 16" might not fit the sport trim due to larger calipers vs. base LX, you would need to confirm. I run stock 16" for winter and the 17" for summer. Most of my spare rims sets for all my vehicles have been under $500 some under $200 for all 4. Steel and hubcaps are also an option for winters. I did that my first winter because I had them from the Sonata. I get YEARS (10-12+ as long as I have the vehicle) from the winter spare rims. For me they pay after 1-2 seasons.
Elantra 17"
Wheel Automotive parking light Tire Car Vehicle

Accord stock 16"
Wheel Tire Car Land vehicle Vehicle

Sonata 16" steel and hubcaps.
Car Tire Wheel Land vehicle Vehicle

Stock 16" in snow
Wheel Car Tire Vehicle Snow
 

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2017 Accord LX 6MT Modern Steel Metallic
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482 Posts
So, after further review, tires are good for another month. Also, rear brakes in better shape than last time as well.

Just will need cat converter for inspection.

Sent from my SM-S901U using Tapatalk
From Piloteers and guy in Canada.
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2017 Accord LX 6MT Modern Steel Metallic
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I’ll follow that up with this.

I will continue to use true winter tires for my cars but I am nowhere near the mileage as stiller fan. My winter tires last about 5 years. Newer compounds apply a lot of changes. The only negative many report from the Michelin CC2 on other forums I read is the loss in MPG. Attributed to the better grip and not as low rolling resistance. For those that don’t use true winter or want to be bothered switching and expense, I will always point out the pros and cons of them and then the same with option for the all weather vs all season. Many don’t know or don’t care. Round, black, hold air, pass inspection for tread is all that matters.

Stiller fan and others have the opportunity to try many versions with the mileage they rack up. I’m thinking the 30 day test drive things from DT and others. The hassle of changing is the issue but easy to try them in dry and probably rain, maybe snow for like 6-7k miles which is less than 30 days. Too Noisy? MPG hit? Lack grip in rain? Swap them out for a different version. At least it will give the, “yes I want true winter from this month to that month, but I can do all weather from this time to that time in case I hit snow and the all seasons during the rest for the hotter times and miles”. I think spare rims might make that easier with a quick change while home with a decent floor jack and electric impact gun.
 
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Other than switching to snows for approximately 100 days each winter, I'm not sure that all weather's are a universal answer. I say this because when you read the reviews and look at the performance data, all weather's can have poor wet performance. Is this worth it year round to lose wet traction to have better traction for a handful of snowstorms each year? Tires continue to be about compromises so be sure to check the data if it's out there.
 

· 2010 2.4EX
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1,289 Posts
Got tired of driving with my chin (almost) in my chest and my hair rubbing against the headrest, so I turned the driver's seat headrest around today. We'll see how that goes.
First time I’ve heard of that circumstance!

How upright do you keep your drivers seat-back?

Also, you might want to reinstall that head restraint, by the way, the right way round. Your model year might be equipped with a feature that firms up that restraint to limit your head and neck movement in a fore-and-aft crash.
 

· 2010 2.4EX
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1,289 Posts
1) Head rest = head restraint. Same thing.

2) I have it at an angle; I can't sit bolt upright. I don't
think this has that stuff inside the seat for the headrest.
1) No, they are not. Look up the words "rest" and "restraint" in a dictionary.

2) Having the seat back 90° upright would cause the conditions you described earlier. So I think something else is going on here. But in the mean time, reinsert the heat restraint the correct way, and have someone photograph you sitting in the drivers seat while driving, or just parked. You may use the onboard editor to blur your face for privacy if desired.
 

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I sympathize. I can't drive in a reclined position and my height plants the back of my head right into the top of the head restraint, forcing it forward into a truly uncomfortable position. It's fatiguing over time and distance. I've turned them around in both my cars, and I'm happier for it. The distance from the back of my noggin to the restraint is still minimal, so whiplash really isn't a concern.


To K Man's point, it is, in fact a restraint, not a rest. If it is being used as a rest, then that head isnt moving and being alert, nor is it taking in information while driving as it should be. If the head can't be held up any more, it's time to stop and and rest until it can be. As a restraint, it supports said melon in a for/aft collision.

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· 2010 2.4EX
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· Registered
2017 Accord LX 6MT Modern Steel Metallic
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The headrests in my old Sonata you could actually push forward like on a ratchet click. They would move 3-4 clicks forward and then reset to the back. The plastic on headrest by posts was slotted to accommodate. I didn't notice that on the Accord but really haven't looked.

Maybe they do move and mtts60 has that issue where they are locked forward?

I've also seen where people removed them and accidentally installed ones from rear seats in the fronts.
 

· 2010 2.4EX
Joined
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1,289 Posts
1) The headrests in my old Sonata you could actually push forward like on a
ratchet click. They would move 3-4 clicks forward and then reset to the back.
The plastic on headrest by posts was slotted to accommodate. I didn't notice
that on the Accord but really haven't looked.

Maybe they do move and mtts60 has that issue where they are locked forward?

2) I've also seen where people removed them and accidentally installed ones
from rear seats in the fronts.

1) Yes: That was the case on my corporate cousin, my beloved '08 Optima.
As far as 8th and 9th gen Accords go, Honda likely rejected adjustable head restraints in favor of active ones.

2) :oops: Are some people really that dumb?? To not notice the difference?
 
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