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I forced chatgpt to the Honda factory service manual. It differentiates the check plug and the fill plug. Haha you were right!
I had to pick up a couple 1/2" extensions and an impact 1/2" > 3/8" adapter to crack the fill open. The 3/8" extension to get there was just twisting where I swear it would snap and send part through my windshield.

I believe I bought this one from Haus Of Tools. Koken 1/2 > 3/8 these are more solid than than the normal adapter with ball detent in middle, I have snapped some of those.
 
I had to pick up a couple 1/2" extensions and an impact 1/2" > 3/8" adapter to crack the fill open. The 3/8" extension to get there was just twisting where I swear it would snap and send part through my windshield.

I believe I bought this one from Haus Of Tools. Koken 1/2 > 3/8 these are more solid than than the normal adapter with ball detent in middle, I have snapped some of those.
I was just about to ask if anyone had tried a big impact with adapter after seeing a YT snapping a 3/8" extension.
I just ordered the adapter you linked even though I have a "standard" chromie.

I ran into the same factory overtightened transfer case drain plug on a 2005 GMC 2500. IDJITS!

Thanks!
 
I wouldn't do an impact gun it was me (not that I didn't think about it). My Milwaukee high torque might break other things. I just used a nice solid 1/2" breaker bar with I think a 12" long, 1/2" impact extension and the adapter. It still took some muscle but cracked loose and was controllable pulling away from windshield in case something snapped.
 
I've read a lot of the manual but not that. I will dig it out and "inform" chatgpt 😆
I see lots of folks using MTL in here with good results and since I already have it..
Just FYI, ChatGPT will not actually learn from your information in a chat. You can convince it you are right in the chat, but the backend processing that gave you the wrong answer originally will be unchanged and continue to give anyone else more bad information. You can even get ChatGPT to agree with things that are objectively false as it is designed to agree with you more than correct you.
 
Just FYI, ChatGPT will not actually learn from your information in a chat. You can convince it you are right in the chat, but the backend processing that gave you the wrong answer originally will be unchanged and continue to give anyone else more bad information. You can even get ChatGPT to agree with things that are objectively false as it is designed to agree with you more than correct you.
Yeah, I saw something recently on TV describing just that. Wouldn't wanna be offended 😂.

New crush washers on the way.
 
I wouldn't do an impact gun it was me (not that I didn't think about it). My Milwaukee high torque might break other things. I just used a nice solid 1/2" breaker bar with I think a 12" long, 1/2" impact extension and the adapter. It still took some muscle but cracked loose and was controllable pulling away from windshield in case something snapped.
PB Blaster or such overnight worthwhile? A little dab..
 
Yeah, I wouldn't do an impact gun either...lots of force going uncontrolled. I did the same as sequoiasoon. It was tight as heck, and eventually cracked. To get a good 3/8th grip down there, I cleaned some of the built up debris with a long pick, then an air gun so I was able to seat the end in good and tight. I did use WD, sprayed the night before.
 
I've had several encounters with ChatGPT... none of which were productive. My hot take is that AI chatbots are worthless garbage.

Never forget the time a pair of influencers went viral for asking ChatGPT if they needed a visa for their vacation, were told no, didn't fact check it, and were barred from their flight!! :LOL:
 
I've had several encounters with ChatGPT... none of which were productive. My hot take is that AI chatbots are worthless garbage.

Never forget the time a pair of influencers went viral for asking ChatGPT if they needed a visa for their vacation, were told no, didn't fact check it, and were barred from their flight!! :LOL:
Now that's just DUMB.
I sort through info and take little at face value.
 
PB Blaster or such overnight worthwhile? A little dab..
You could try, I didn't. If you do I would clean with brakeclean after to remove any lubricant from the square where adapter goes.

Yeah, I wouldn't do an impact gun either...lots of force going uncontrolled. I did the same as sequoiasoon. It was tight as heck, and eventually cracked. To get a good 3/8th grip down there, I cleaned some of the built up debris with a long pick, then an air gun so I was able to seat the end in good and tight. I did use WD, sprayed the night before.
Good point. I did a small screwdriver/pick also and blew it out. My motor is clean as it gets sprayed with simple green a couple times per year. There was still a bunch of junk in there.
 
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Never forget the time a pair of influ-IDIOTS went viral for
asking ChatGPT if they needed a visa for their vacation
That's more like it.

Because if they didn't know enough to ask a travel agent, then that's what they are.
 
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So I did this just before my trip away, but didn't get a chance to post it.

I removed the back seat to aid in running cables to the boot (for my fridge setup). I figured while it was out, that I would add some sound deadener to the rear wheel arches.

I cut some panels to size, then held them in place to mark where mounting studs were:
Image


Then I used a gasket hole cutter, just by hand, and twisted it through the aluminium and butyl layers:
Image


Nice neat holes:
Image


And fitted into place, with the OEM compressed fibre layer back on top of it:
Image


And then I added a layer of open cell EPDM foam to the back of each side panel, against the hard plastic layer:
Image


As well as that, I also shoved some "pillows" of puffy fibre/fabric in behind each trim panel in the boot, and pushed them up over the wheel arch area as far as I could.

It made a slight difference on the concrete sections of the freeway. Enough for my wife to notice there was less noise from the back.
It made no difference on the "chip seal" crappy road surfaces that are just spray tar with gravel on top, which is very noisy.
On the new smooth bitumen, made with recycled tyres, it's almost silent - the A/C fan is louder than the tyre noise.
I will be doing a lot more over time, but just did that while I had the access with the seat out.
 
So I did this just before my trip away, but didn't get a chance to post it.

I removed the back seat to aid in running cables to the boot (for my fridge setup). I figured while it was out, that I would add some sound deadener to the rear wheel arches.

I cut some panels to size, then held them in place to mark where mounting studs were:
View attachment 570682

Then I used a gasket hole cutter, just by hand, and twisted it through the aluminium and butyl layers:
View attachment 570683

Nice neat holes:
View attachment 570684

And fitted into place, with the OEM compressed fibre layer back on top of it:
View attachment 570685

And then I added a layer of open cell EPDM foam to the back of each side panel, against the hard plastic layer:
View attachment 570686

As well as that, I also shoved some "pillows" of puffy fibre/fabric in behind each trim panel in the boot, and pushed them up over the wheel arch area as far as I could.

It made a slight difference on the concrete sections of the freeway. Enough for my wife to notice there was less noise from the back.
It made no difference on the "chip seal" crappy road surfaces that are just spray tar with gravel on top, which is very noisy.
On the new smooth bitumen, made with recycled tyres, it's almost silent - the A/C fan is louder than the tyre noise.
I will be doing a lot more over time, but just did that while I had the access with the seat out.
For what purpose is a ref required in the trunk/boot of your car may I ask?
 
For what purpose is a ref required in the trunk/boot of your car may I ask?
There are quite a few reasons why I have had a 12V compressor fridge in my car for the last 15 years. It's not permanently in there, and not always running either - I only run it when I need it.

We do a lot of road trips, and stay in motels where you don't always get a fridge that has a freezer compartment to freeze ice-bricks or gel packs. I also used to travel a lot for work - up to a week at a time, doing a lot of stop-start driving covering many regional towns & cities. Same problem with the lack of a freezer in their mini-bar fridges. Buying ice each day for a cooler is a pain, and it's also difficult to put food in a cooler full of ice unless it's really well sealed (a tub of butter does not fare well.....)

So over the years I've bought several 12V fridges - some with 240V mains function built in, others needing an adapter. I just take the fridge out of the car at night, and plug it in at the hotel or motel room we're staying in. I have 4 at the moment, ranging from 15L (holds 18 cans) up to 50L (holds around 60 cans). I can also run the smaller 15 & 18L ones off power tool batteries for several hours at a time, so I take them to BBQs, our nephew's football games, and other activities where you want cold drinks that are just above freezing. I have had 2 fail in that time, but for the cost, I got my money's worth out of them.

I also like to purchase specific food items (which need refrigeration) that we have to drive over 40 minutes to get to, and my wife is fond of the offerings at a wholesaler an hour away, so I run the large fridge and put all the perishables in it for the trip home. And on the 105-110 degree summer days we get here, when I go grocery shopping I put the ice cream in it so it doesn't melt.

It's quite common in Australia for 4WDs and even "soft roader" SUVs to have a fridge in the back on a slide out tray, and it's also becoming popular to have a solar panel on the roof to run the fridge during the day, with it's own lithium battery (isolated from the primary battery) to continue running at night. Most of my friends on our recent vintage Chevrolet tour now use 4WDs as tow vehicles (a couple have imported Rams) and they all had a fridge in the back running off solar whilst parked up for the week. I explained more about my new install in this thread: https://www.driveaccord.net/threads...ator-and-power.579273/?post_id=7025262&nested_view=1&sortby=oldest#post-7025262

From this post onwards is an example of a vintage Chev tour we've just done:

As I couldn't take our 1928 this year, we were "support" in the Accord, and I carried a lot of cold stuff for my friends in the vintage cars. But even if I was driving the '28, I also take a small one in the car with me (running on tool batteries) on longer day trips too. It's so much easier than ice.

Compared to 15 years ago when I bought my first 12V fridge, they are now very affordable. You can get one for as low as AU$169, which I have seen on sale for $99 (I actually bought it, and it's under my desk at work). Here's some examples: Home Page - Adventure Kings
 
New air filter and cabin filter. It's been bout 2 years. Not the worst I've changed recently. I also ran it through the car wash, filled it up with fuel, vacuumed and cleaned the windows.

Image
 
I have a 12V freezer too. When my cooler died, I wanted something better. My freezer runs off 12v, can hit -20C! I have the option of using a battery backup (which I don't have). I think there's a solar option.

It also works at home as a backup overflow when I'm out of room. It comes with an 120v adapter. Best part is besides being quiet, it draws less power from my car than the previous cooler. BougeRV from Amazon.
 
That's another bonus - when something is on sale, and we don't have freezer room, I use one (or more) of them plugged into the mains, set to -18°C for a few days until we get through it. At Christmas and other celebrations, they work well as overflow fridges when there's too many leftovers.
 
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