[GunmetalV6]

Hello everyone,

I bought a 2006 Honda Accord V6 6-Speed in Gunmetal Grey with 88k on it. When I got the car it needed a few small things and took care of them. I had to replace the rear rotors which wasn't too bad. One problem I'm having is really bad gas mileage. I'm not a speeder and I don't slam the gas hard. I'm averaging like 19-20 MPG with combined city/highway. Not sure what the problem is with that. Another thing I was wondering if when I should get the timing belt done. I read on these forums that its 105k miles or 7-8 years. My car just turned 7 years old, should I get the timing belt done soon? I'm up to 89k miles now. Any advice is appreciated.

Thank you,
GunmetalV6:thmsup:

 

[gwiffer]

What's your cars build date on the driver door-jamb?

 

[BLCKFLSH]

Chances are, the belt would last another year or two. But you would be taking that chance, not me. Personally, I waited 8 years and did it when I had 93,500 miles.

 

[GunmetalV6]

What's your cars build date on the driver door-jamb?

I will check for you good sir, be right back!

What's your cars build date on the driver door-jamb?

Brrr, its cold outside. Manufactured 12/05.

Chances are, the belt would last another year or two. But you would be taking that chance, not me. Personally, I waited 8 years and did it when I had 93,500 miles.

Would a belt that's on its way out produce reduced MPG or is that a totally different issue?

 

[gveng]

Would a belt that's on its way out produce reduced MPG or is that a totally different issue?

No, the timing belt shouldn't reduce your miles per gallon. Also, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought that changing the timing belt only depended on the amount of miles you've driven (105,000) and not time.

Things to check that could be affecting your MPG:
-Winter grade gasoline
-Air filter dirty
-Tires not properly inflated
-Spark plugs might need replacing.
-Etc...

 

[GunmetalV6]

No, the timing belt shouldn't reduce your miles per gallon. Also, someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I always thought that changing the timing belt only depended on the amount of miles you've driven (105,000) and not time.

Things to check that could be affecting your MPG:
-Winter grade gasoline
-Air filter dirty
-Tires not properly inflated
-Spark plugs might need replacing.
-Etc...

Thank you for your reply! I have been thinking about changing out the air filter. Where would you recommend picking one up for the V6 Sedan? Is there a way to look at a spark plug to see if its bad? Sorry if I come off new, I've just recently started doing my own maintenance.

 

[mc1114]

How did you calculate gas mileage? What pressure do you run in the tires? What RPM do you typically shift at? Check Engine light not on? I'm getting about 22 MPG with all city driving on my 06 6-6

As for the timing belt, they usually last longer than the recommended mileage interval. But it's your car and your decision. If it breaks, damage will occur. I won't be doing mine until after 100k

 

[namegoeshere]

Things to check that could be affecting your MPG:

-Air filter dirty

Thank you for your reply! I have been thinking about changing out the air filter.

Dirty air filter will not affect MPG

See: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1051141&postcount=6 and http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31699

Or to summarize:

The engine control computers keep the air/fuel ratio in the desired zone (for emissions) by monitoring everything out the wazoo. If the filter restricts airflow, the ECC restricts fuel correspondingly, so economy doesn't suffer much if at all, but there isn't enough fuel getting into the engine to allow the get up and go.

Princess and All:

FredSVT, I, and others have discussed air filtration's effect upon fuel economy in other threads. Rather than requote, those so interested should review them.

On an ECM-controlled fuel-injected engine, the computer is getting signals from the MAP, TAS, IAT, coolant temp, and various other sensors. If/when the filter element becomes clogged, all the ECM does is reduce fuel delivery based upon available intake air. Hence, less power and torque response. But fuel economy is not signficantly reduced.

On a carbureted engine, exactly the opposite occurs. As the filter clogs up, you change the plenum pressure dynamics. Thus, the engine will pull more gas out of the float bowl(s). With an over-rich condition, this (naturally) reduces power, torque AND economy.

When the filter is dirty, air is the limiting reactant flow, and the engine control computer will still restrict fuel flow correspondingly. Don't forget that emissions are driving all of the control logic, and emissions are in turn driven largely by the air/fuel ratio. Mashing the gas pedal harder with a dirty filter is sort of like replacing a 60 watt ceiling light with a 40 watter, and then pushing REALLY hard on the light switch in an attempt to get more light. . . .

 

[GunmetalV6]

How did you calculate gas mileage? What pressure do you run in the tires? What RPM do you typically shift at? Check Engine light not on? I'm getting about 22 MPG with all city driving on my 06 6-6

As for the timing belt, they usually last longer than the recommended mileage interval. But it's your car and your decision. If it breaks, damage will occur. I won't be doing mine until after 100k

I calculate gas mileage by filling the tank then dividing the total mileage for that fill-up by 17(17 gallon gas tank). I'm unsure of the pressure, I had it looked over recently and nobody said anything about it. I typically up-shift at 3,000 RPMs at 50 MPH I shift into 6th gear. Check engine light is not on. I drive about 50/50 highway and city, so I'm expecting like 23-24 but am only getting around 19-20. I'm thinking I'll just swap it out at 100k to avoid the possibility of additional damage.

 

[GunmetalV6]

Dirty air filter will not affect MPG

See: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showpost.php?p=1051141&postcount=6 and http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31699

Or to summarize:

Thank you for posting this my friend, very helpful! :thmsup:

 

[Dan]

19-20 is probably normal if you drive more city than highway

 

[TH23]

I calculate gas mileage by filling the tank then dividing the total mileage for that fill-up by 17(17 gallon gas tank).

There's your problem right there. You divide the number of miles driven on a tank by the amount of gas you put in, not the amount the tank holds.

 

[ezshift5]

There's your problem right there. You divide the number of miles driven on a tank by the amount of gas you put in, not the amount the tank holds.

Amen, brother!!!

My average - nearly same J30a series with 6M - runs 27 - 29 with 65%HWY. Same station/same pump/first click THEN DIVIDE BY GALLONS USED.

Great car (still on factory original Iridiums, pads, clutch)

ez (shift at 2500 vice 3500 helps also).............

 

[GunmetalV6]

There's your problem right there. You divide the number of miles driven on a tank by the amount of gas you put in, not the amount the tank holds.

Doesn't my accord have a 17 gallon tank though? I have done the calculation by knowing I have 17 gallons in there, then going for as many miles as I can get.

 

[Straight Drive]

Doesn't my accord have a 17 gallon tank though? I have done the calculation by knowing I have 17 gallons in there, then going for as many miles as I can get.

The problem is that there is still fuel in your tank when you go to fill up. You did not use up all 17 gallons of fuel.

 

[Drew03Accord]

Doesn't my accord have a 17 gallon tank though? I have done the calculation by knowing I have 17 gallons in there, then going for as many miles as I can get.

As stated, you'll never use 17 gallons because you'd be on the side of the road walking with a gas can. I just filled up with the gas gauge needle directly over the last bar (I had driven roughly 45 miles after the gas light turned on) and it was 14 gallons, so I still had 3 gallons left in the tank.

Fill your tank till the pump stops and zero your trip odo. Drive until the low gas light turns on then go fill up again until the pump stops. Divide # of miles on the trip odo by the # of gallons you pumped and you'll have your number.

 

[DreaminAccord]

:yes: Believe it or not OP, you will...I know, I know, hold your shocked faces err'one, absolutely get 0mpg with no timing belt. Okay, now y'all can gasp.

lol just teasing you - but you should watch how you word your titles next time as someone passing by might think you're asking about the correlation b/t your MPG and a timing belt.

Now with that said, I see a lot of the fine folks here have already answered your questions.

Things that destroy MPG:
Winter
Bad oil
Bad gas
High RPMs
Speeding over 60mph
Extreme inclines (mountains, etc)
Extreme stop/go traffic
Useless idling
...I think you get the point

For any routine maintenance questions, there are numerous threads already developed on the forums - just search :thmsup: Plenty of good information floating out there in cyber space. If *that* doesn't work...open your glovebox and check your owner's manual (which technically should be your first intervention...but I was giving typing in a search engine the benefit of the doubt)

G'luck!

 

[mc1114]

So it sounds like your gas mileage might be ok then. lol

 

[GunmetalV6]

:yes: Believe it or not OP, you will...I know, I know, hold your shocked faces err'one, absolutely get 0mpg with no timing belt. Okay, now y'all can gasp.

lol just teasing you - but you should watch how you word your titles next time as someone passing by might think you're asking about the correlation b/t your MPG and a timing belt.

Now with that said, I see a lot of the fine folks here have already answered your questions.

Things that destroy MPG:
Winter
Bad oil
Bad gas
High RPMs
Speeding over 60mph
Extreme inclines (mountains, etc)
Extreme stop/go traffic
Useless idling
...I think you get the point

For any routine maintenance questions, there are numerous threads already developed on the forums - just search :thmsup: Plenty of good information floating out there in cyber space. If *that* doesn't work...open your glovebox and check your owner's manual (which technically should be your first intervention...but I was giving typing in a search engine the benefit of the doubt)

G'luck!

Seems like the only thing I fall under is the fact that its winter. I'll hold out for summer and hope for better gas mileage:lmao:

 

[GunmetalV6]

As stated, you'll never use 17 gallons because you'd be on the side of the road walking with a gas can. I just filled up with the gas gauge needle directly over the last bar (I had driven roughly 45 miles after the gas light turned on) and it was 14 gallons, so I still had 3 gallons left in the tank.

Fill your tank till the pump stops and zero your trip odo. Drive until the low gas light turns on then go fill up again until the pump stops. Divide # of miles on the trip odo by the # of gallons you pumped and you'll have your number.

I'll do that! thank you my friend.:wave: