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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
We've had some questions about how we managed almost 400 HP and 420 lb-ft torque from a 1.5 Civic, so we thought we would share.

We took a Civic Si 1.5 engine and upgraded it with a 27WON turbo. A flex fuel kit was fitted, the car filled with E85 and tuned. The injectors, in tank fuel pump and DI fuel pump were all stock. As this car was configured for drag racing a downpipe was installed. Our tuning datalogs indicated a slight drop in DI fuel pressure at the top the rev range. We are not sure if that is due to the mechanical or electric pump, but this might indicate a fuel system upgrade is needed for more power.

Then the owner ran 11s for the 1/4 mile.

The Accord 1.5 and Civic 1.5 are very similar in engine design. We will provide a cross reference of fuel system parts early next week and get some idea of the difference or similarities between the Accord and the Civic. If the parts are the same, then the Accord 1.5 engine will likely have a similar power potential.

Part number cross reference update.

Injectors: The Accord 1.5 and Civic Si 1.5 have the part number- 16010-5PA-205
Direct Injection fuel pump: The part numbers are different but the pump brand is the same. We will need to investigate further as to flow capabilities.


The Civic ran with a stock manual transmission and upgraded clutch.

Tuning is critical. People have blown Civic engines with a lot less power and torque.
 

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I was thinking of getting a new car in 3-4 years but if the 1.5 can be upgraded this far without a new engine or transmission I might be convinced to keep it for a while
 

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Someone needs to see where the breaking point of the 10AT is, that's going to be critical. The engine has never really been a worry at any sane power level, it's always "when is the CVT/AT going to grenade".

Also I thought around this power level you have to start worrying about driveshafts too.
 

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Someone needs to see where the breaking point of the 10AT is, that's going to be critical. The engine has never really been a worry at any sane power level, it's always "when is the CVT/AT going to grenade".

Also I thought around this power level you have to start worrying about driveshafts too.
Is the 10AT available with a 1.5? I thought it was MT or CVT. I would be grateful if someone (else) sacrificed their 1.5/CVT to the auto gods and found out the failure point of that combo.
 

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Is the 10AT available with a 1.5? I thought it was MT or CVT. I would be grateful if someone (else) sacrificed their 1.5/CVT to the auto gods and found out the failure point of that combo.
Check out the FaceGroup forums....there are ALWAYS people who cite Instagram ads as "research", don't use critical thinking, and blow something up. The problem then becomes having them post (using complete sentences) what they learned. Bless them.

We also have to define "failure". Do you mean catastrophic failure as in the engine/transmission blows up right then and there? Do you mean partial failure where stress cracks develop- and a few more heat/cool cycles of the engine block will allow coolant into the combustion chamber?

The highest "power" is not always the answer. True story: A Soviet-made Mig-25 Foxbat was clocked at Mach 3.2 over Israel back in the 1970s (flight from Egypt to Syria). That was the fastest recorded fighter at that time. That sent the USA and her allies into a panic (back then, dogfighting was a real thing- Top Gun not withstanding, and top speed mattered).

A few years later a Soviet Mig-25 pilot flew into Japanese air space and defected. During interrogation of this pilot, it was determined that the earlier Mig-25 indeed hit Mach 3.2, but was no longer "air worthy" in that the frame, engines, and safety systems were beyond repair. That Mach 3.2 pilot tried to eject, but could not- and by a miracle was able to land in Syria.

Many of the planes you see at the Wright-Patterson AFB museum in Ohio as well as outside of air bases are in fact planes that were over-stressed. They may look good, but no pilot in his/her right mind would attempt to fly it.

So, do your research, and don't blindly believe Instagram ads.

Well-developed, researched, proven, and managed power is the answer.
 

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Is the 10AT available with a 1.5? I thought it was MT or CVT. I would be grateful if someone (else) sacrificed their 1.5/CVT to the auto gods and found out the failure point of that combo.
CVT was damaged just above 250WHP, it was a really low number. The 10AT is on the 2.0 which is what most "enthusiasts" are going to be driving, so there's a lot of value in knowing where failure is there. (As Rick mentioned though, it's not a on-off switch for failure, usually). You get into stuff like "well it'll only grenade if you launch it at XYZ power with ABC tires".

 

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Its TQ that matters, Civic 1.5L SI maxes around 230HP on a stock turbo, stock fuel. The TQ can go much higher like 270 with stage 2 maps and If my memory is right the CVT can only handle like 230ft/lbs.
On the 10sp AT there using it in heavy vehicles like Odyssey and Pilot (9AT), so it can probably handle decent amount but as you raise the TQ/HP the clutches are going to take a hit in the long run, how much we would need long-term testing on stock and modified versions.
 

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Its TQ that matters, Civic 1.5L SI maxes around 230HP on a stock turbo, stock fuel. The TQ can go much higher like 270 with stage 2 maps and If my memory is right the CVT can only handle like 230ft/lbs.
On the 10sp AT there using it in heavy vehicles like Odyssey and Pilot (9AT), so it can probably handle decent amount but as you raise the TQ/HP the clutches are going to take a hit in the long run, how much we would need long-term testing on stock and modified versions.
It's going to come down to the TQ and the heat in the transmission. I'm sure that the transmission fluid really wasn't designed to be put through the wringer with repeated high TQ runs. Although I can't imagine seeing many 10AT Accords lapping at a track day.

I feel like the 15% increase that Hondata is talking about is well within the limits of what SHOULD be applied to the engine/transmission with their tune. Personally I'd like just a little more punch and a cleaned up power band. I'll save the big power for my fun car.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Here is my personal experience with driveshafts in my horsepower / high torque landspeed Hondas

My landspeed Hondas:
- a 920 HP 2.1 500-lb ft torque CRX
- A 750 HP 2.0 twin supercharged RSX

These cars have earned over 55 land speed records with hundreds of accumulated runs with speeds of up to 230-245 mph.

both run:

- stock gearboxes (with stock and Quaife LSD)
- stock driveshafts
- stock brakes

The cars run Goodyear Frontrunner tires which are 4-5" in width. A sticky tire and sticky track will transfer more load to the transmission. These narrow tires allow for some wheel spin - which we were having problems with at 240 mph.
 

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Here is my personal experience with driveshafts in my horsepower / high torque landspeed Hondas

My landspeed Hondas:
- a 920 HP 2.1 500-lb ft torque CRX
- A 750 HP 2.0 twin supercharged RSX

These cars have earned over 55 land speed records with hundreds of accumulated runs with speeds of up to 230-245 mph.

both run:

- stock gearboxes (with stock and Quaife LSD)
- stock driveshafts
- stock brakes

The cars run Goodyear Frontrunner tires which are 4-5" in width. A sticky tire and sticky track will transfer more load to the transmission. These narrow tires allow for some wheel spin - which we were having problems with at 240 mph.
Those are impressive numbers for sure, little surprised you run stock brakes but I guess distance and heat build up is limited to one time per run.

You don't hear much about Honda MT going bad (streetwise) even with decent power.

On the CV type driveshafts, I would think the more power is applied on turns would affect them then pure straight run, but that is a guess.
I would assume road course type racing would hurt the most with heat soak in AT a more possibility.
I am sure you could add a external air/oil cooler to the stock water/oil cooled system, or just get ride of water part for track use.
 

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Know this thread was about 1.5t, but am enjoying the 10AT discussion. Regarding the transmission reliability against more power, would in make sense to just keep TQ levels around were they are (stage2 Hondata) and focus on increasing the HP with intakes, downpipes, ethanol, etc? Would that keep the strain on transmission down or would the added hp effect it the same? I’m thinking high tq #’s, especially from a dig are worse on tranny Longevity


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Honda an other manufacturers are horrible about publishing maximum HP / TQ specs for their transmissions. If you take the published HP / TQ numbers and add 10 - 15% they will be fine for a short time until the weakest link fails.

With a 10 speed transmission, I'd expect to see failure in the 2nd and 3rd gears as there's such a close ration to 1st and 4th.
 

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I would love to here from anyone. I wanna hear from anyone that has gotten dyno’d and what upgrades you have had done.
 

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I would love to here from anyone. I wanna hear from anyone that has gotten dyno’d and what upgrades you have had done.
517540

2018 Accord sport 1.5 6MT
-KTuner v1.2 Stage 1(eco) Stage 2 93 oct basemap
-RV6 Catless DP
-Takeda Momentum Pro 5r Intake
 
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