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2012 4Dr SE
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
So I saw an older post about putting TL TypeS sway bars on a 4dr or coupe. I took the plunge after going on a on ramp and having massive under-steer So I went to www.acurapartsworld.com (they have a flat rate $6 Shipping charge).

I got:

Rear (20mm)
52300-TK5-A02 SPRING, RR. STABILIZER
52306-TK5-A01 BUSH, RR. STABILIZER HOLDER (2)

(front 31mm)
51300-TK4-A01 SPRING, FR. STABILIZER
51306-TK4-A01 BUSH, STABILIZER HOLDER (2)
51308-TK4-A00 BRACKET, FR. STABILIZER (2)
51320-SEP-A01 LINK, R. FR. STABILIZER
51321-SEP-A01 LINK, L. FR. STABILIZER

it was about $200 total.

I tried JUST the rear TL bar and it was "OKish" it felt better but I knew the front bar could use some improvement and it did have a just a HAIR more over-steer than under... OK for me but not for the wife...

So I took the car to work and lowered the sub frame slightly (I have a 2012 SE 4cyl) and I OB longed the FRONT sway bar brackets... and also the lower control arm bolt holes... I did not purchase nuts because I have EXTRA's at work I just went through our nut and bolt bins and found 4 Nylock nuts. it was pretty easy took me about 45min with a life... I'm pretty sure if I would of done this is my driveway it would of taken me about 1.5hrs... I did have to remove both front tires to make room to slide the OLD sway bar out and the new one in.

BTW the rear bar I did in my driveway with a jack... it was VERY easy to install I simply swapped out the stock CENTER bushings for the TL ones and bolted the new bar to the old endlinks.

Now the car handles very nice and I have basicly ZERO body roll! Mind you my car is STOCK I have stock SE wheels and tires and no lowering at this time.
 

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2012 4Dr SE
Joined
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
PICTURES!!!

This is the REAR TSX type S sway bar like I said I RE-USED the END link's and Brackets just installed new bushings... This one I installed in my driveway with a JACK. its totally do able as others have said to install this yourself.









 

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2012 4Dr SE
Joined
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Front Bar Fitment... once you grind the control arm bolt holes out and also elongate your sway bar bushing bracket the bar fits like a glove like it was MENT for the car... the rear bar does touch the subframe but I have not heard any side effects of that and I just recently took a long trip and lots of freeways and rough LA roads... and I gotta say it really improved the car substansionaly.











 

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PAWN BROKER
Joined
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136 Posts
Grind off control arm bolts? Why?

The bolts are haft metal haft Teflon. They are really hard to get off, specially if they've been on since the factory. And the little Allen tool hole on the end links, 9 times out of 10 round out.

The only way I've found of saving the nuts is using a torch and lightly heating then. Then quickly, using an impact, removing them. If doesn't work the first time repeat.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
 

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2012 4Dr SE
Joined
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14 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Grind off control arm bolts? Why?
The ACCORD control arms use a 10mm bolt and nut for the END LINKS for the sway bar on the front...

the TL uses 12mm bolts so you just have to "grind" the hole out a little larger with a metal grinding bit on a dremel tool. not that hard... also the BOLT HOLE spacing on the BUSHING bracket is smaller than the TL so I just used the same tool to make the bolt holes bigger.... very minor modification.

ONLY have to do this with the FRONT bar... the back is EASY!
 

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mobiless2
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