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Discussion Starter #1
My daughter ended up with a 2013 Accord EX l in a separation agreement. Her husband was driving it. He dumped a big problem on her. She was in NC, a military wife.My ex son in law damaged a rear ABS sensor replacing a rotor. apparently he did not know to pull it off using bolts. The vehicle then displayed every light even after replacing the sensor. It had been like this for over 2 years yet ran fine with no symptoms. She followed me back to VT with no issues. Now it is my problem to solve. After getting no good advice from mt tire center and Honda dealer I did the research and decided to start with the ABS module. I replaced just the electronic control module. all lights went out and it stated and idled fine. When I went for a test drive the TCS started flashing after about 15-20 mph. Iy started bucking and shifting up and down. I was in the mobile electronics business for 40 years and am a very competent mechanic but need your advice on what to look for. I put the old one but lights are on again and it drives as should. need programming? bad used part? Any advise is appreciated. Bill.
 

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If the issue was just a wheel speed sensor why did you replace the ABS module? Also replacing rear brake rotors does not involve removing the wheel sensor. You sure he did not replace a wheel bearing?

At this point you need diagnostics to find out the issue. I would check to see what codes are in the ABS system now. Then possibly replace the ABS module with the original and see what error codes come up.




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Discussion Starter #4
They each had to take the car registered in their names. she did not take his car, she used the Prius to go to nursing school 1 1/2 each way. She was forced to take the Accord. The Prius was the better car. All the sensors and system was checked. all sensors were reading correctly. The new module turned off the lights. Everything led to the ABS module. It is this residual VSA issue I am tying to resolve. I suspect it need a neutral reset now I am trying to determine If I can do it or dealer has to. I had a similar problem with my Highlander and a reset solved it.This is not my first rodeo., just looking for some direction..
 

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The VSA system is reliant on the ABS sensors and the ABS system having no errors. Also, the sensors are used for the TPMS as well. Unless the ABS system is working properly none of the sub systems that are reliant on on the ABS will go active and you will have all the warning lights on. Also, it is critical that the electrical system is in good shape, check the battery state and the battery connections are clean and tight. A bad battery or connections will create a lot of issues.

Get you a good ABS scanner and dig into the ABS system.

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Discussion Starter #6
Thank you for the reply, I brought it to Honda a month ago. They noted the battery maintenance recall, which they did They determined it needed it but the battery was bad and they could not do any more diagnosis until I had a new one. I installed a battery and the random dead battery problem went away but all the lights were still on. The shop I use for tires inspection and work when I need it, went through the ABS system and said there scan tool suggested the ABS module. They felt that Honda may need to re-flash it with their scanner. I took a shot at a salvaged module rather than have Honda tell me I needed one. All the lights went out but it was in VSA mode after 10 MPH or so I reinstalled the original and it drives fine but the lights are back. The Master mechanic at my Honda dealership says the replacement has to be programmed into my system to acknowledge the sensors. If it was the service writer I would still question it. Plenty of them are being sold but there is no reference to this on the internet can any one shed light on the need to reprogram a replacement ABS module on this 2013 Accord EX L or do I have a bad replacement and am wasting money at Honda? I made an appointment for next week but still feel unsure if this is the solution.I am a very competent mechanic and as I referenced was a mobile audio electronics installer fo 40 years pioneering remote starter installation that where highly technical.
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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Thank you for the reply, I brought it to Honda a month ago. They noted the battery maintenance recall, which they did They determined it needed it but the battery was bad and they could not do any more diagnosis until I had a new one. I installed a battery and the random dead battery problem went away but all the lights were still on. The shop I use for tires inspection and work when I need it, went through the ABS system and said there scan tool suggested the ABS module. They felt that Honda may need to re-flash it with their scanner. I took a shot at a salvaged module rather than have Honda tell me I needed one. All the lights went out but it was in VSA mode after 10 MPH or so I reinstalled the original and it drives fine but the lights are back. The Master mechanic at my Honda dealership says the replacement has to be programmed into my system to acknowledge the sensors. If it was the service writer I would still question it. Plenty of them are being sold but there is no reference to this on the internet can any one shed light on the need to reprogram a replacement ABS module on this 2013 Accord EX L or do I have a bad replacement and am wasting money at Honda? I made an appointment for next week but still feel unsure if this is the solution.I am a very competent mechanic and as I referenced was a mobile audio electronics installer fo 40 years pioneering remote starter installation that where highly technical.
What are the codes? It's a waste of time/money to start replacing parts without proper diagnosis. You are relying on some 2nd hand info.

There shouldn't be anything in ABS/VSA that needs "programmed", only maybe tire pressure sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I did it based on a lot of research and logic. The problem is there are no codes to read. If I unplugged the module the car ran the same and lights stayed on. The car has run fine for 2 years, I suspect without ABS and VSA .diagnosis on a scan tool indicated the problem was in the ABS module. Because unplugging the module had no result, I logically deduced it was worth the effort to replace the module and avoid dealer prices,. a salvage replacement with a warranty was only $120.All the numbers are the same on the replacement. When I swapped the lights went out but after 10 MPH the VSA kicks in. I am looking for a simple answer, DOES IT NEED TO BE PROGRAMMED TO THE CAR?, For the VSA to work properly, as I have been told to by the dealerships lead mechanic It is not just the ABS module but VSA as well so what they say makes sense. but I wanted independent verification.
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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I did it based on a lot of research and logic. The problem is there are no codes to read. If I unplugged the module the car ran the same and lights stayed on. The car has run fine for 2 years, I suspect without ABS and VSA .diagnosis on a scan tool indicated the problem was in the ABS module. Because unplugging the module had no result, I logically deduced it was worth the effort to replace the module and avoid dealer prices,. a salvage replacement with a warranty was only $120.All the numbers are the same on the replacement. When I swapped the lights went out but after 10 MPH the VSA kicks in. I am looking for a simple answer, DOES IT NEED TO BE PROGRAMMED TO THE CAR?, For the VSA to work properly, as I have been told to by the dealerships lead mechanic It is not just the ABS module but VSA as well so what they say makes sense. but I wanted independent verification.
No, you are wrong.
Whenever a dash light comes on, the car CPU senses a fault and turns trouble lights on. A code reader is basically retrieving the info: what made the CPU turning the lights on.

VSA module is a dumb device with passive sensors and solenoids (pretty much a solenoids controlled master cylinder (s) ). It's not "programmable".

On my 7th gen, there are about 100 VSA codes that can tell what's wrong.
However, you do need a ABS/SRS capable code reader, regular OBDii readers cannot read ABS/SRS codes.

I used to have Foxtell NT630:
516510


I bought it because of an ABS/VSA code. It read out an error code about a wheel speed sensor. I cleared it and the code never came back. I then exchanged the reader for another reader for Audi cars.

You have to know the EXACT codes before working on stuff like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
While ABS is "dumb" VSA is not, even my Highlander needed a zero point reset also referred to as a neutral reset. When I replaced a caliper on the Highlander and bled with the key on it had to be re scanned. I guess at this point I will let the dealer reprogram it. If it does not work then it will be a fault in the replacement module and the dealer was wrong, as all the ABS sensors read in spec and the check engine and ABS lights did not come on with the replacement only the VSA over 10 MPH which leads me to suspect the dealer is correct about relearning the ABS/VSA to the ECU. My mechanic's scan tool cannot program a Honda ECU. and my scanner only reads codes that in this case do not exist.
 

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The VSA module is 2 parts, the electronic side and the pump. Did you replace both the pump and electronics? Did you check the large electrical connection for corrosion?

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Discussion Starter #12
tested the pump by cycling it no corrosion southern car. looked for bent pin as well. drives fine with original but lights are on cannot get it inspected with lights on. new one lights off VSA kicks in at 10MPH stays active. no common symptoms between both modules
 

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Just as I expected, dealer says they have 3 hrs of diagnostics and no answers. I suspect the pressure switch in the hydraulic block. their scanner should show this, they are playing the bad harness game.will let you know.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I solved it. magnetic sensors in rear hubs were apparently damaged when my x son in law took a hammer to the rotors. still do not know why the ABS module was affected but replacement works fine still think the dealer was wrong in telling me the new ABS module needed programming. Why a supposed 3 hr troubleshoot on a computer scanner could not ID the problem? No ABS light was on and no codes,only VSA after 10 mph.Will have a chat with the lead mechanic and service manager. I figured this out on my own with no leads on the internet
 

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Cool story.

You could have solved this quickly if you had simply scanned the system for codes at the beginning instead of throwing a “only $120” part at it. Your problem is you can’t take advice or directions. You’re hard headed.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did not come here to defend my actions only to get advice and provide information for owners to find info on the subject. The dealer after 3 hrs left me with "we need more time" they said they suspected a bad wiring harness.I cannot explain why they could not trouble shoot the hub toner and ABS sensors. I told them from the start my X son in law beat on the rotors and after discovering the screws, I suspect, and completed the brake job. After that the lights all came on. he then replaced the ABS sensors with no result. The first mechanic told me the rear sensors were not at fault. I found no codes on my scanner and neither did he. They suspected a faulty ABS module. I could drive the car without results with the module unplugged. This is why I decided to replace it. With the new module , the lights went out but the traction control locked on after about 10 mph. On the dealers advice I had them reprogram the new module. It did not fix the problem neither did turning the TC off.. I researched active ABS and found you could test magnetic sensors in the hub with a reader card. I could not find one to purchase. I taped over the ring surface and sprinkled filings from my bench grinder on it and lightly brushed them off like finger printing. Sure enough you could clearly see beaks in the circle. Based on this I replaced the hubs for less than $100. Even If I was wrong the car has 135K on it so it would still be a good investment. I was installing new calipers and rotors any way. I found the e brake too tight after completion. My daughter told me he had researched adjusting the parking brake and suspected he had. Apparently too much. After bleeding the calipers and adjusting the brake I test drove it and all lights off, no TA on. We have snow and I tested the ABS and VSA and both work fine now. I can now turn off the TC and it works fine What I want to know now is why the module was damaged and why there were no codes? why did the ABS not come on after replacing the module only the TC. It clearly had bad sensors and the dealer told me there was o speed read in the rear. They actually told me 1 front did not read as well. I now know this to be false as I have not touched the front yet. I do not believe the module does need reprogramming after swapping it as I was led to believe. I feel all this could be valuable research for people trouble shooting ABS/VSA systems in the future.
 
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