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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just as the tittle says, does it worth it? Anybody have actually run some number on the benefits of this intake? other than vtec sound?


To be honest with you guys, I dont care about VTEC sound and much less use it as a determinant wether to buy an aftermarket intake system or not. Factory box breathes fresh air from outside while takeda seems to breathe hot air from the engine bay. As simple as it sounds I find this counterproductive, but they claim over 10hp gain by using their system. Is this really true? Also what about gas mileage, does it actually improves?

If I would by the takeda I'll get the black one because it looks better and hopefully is made of plastic ( smaller heat transfer gradient compared to the metal one, hence less heat added to intake air flow)

Though, feedback? Thanks in advanced?

BTW VTEC is not for power but for fuel economy in low revs. I hate having to wait until 4,900 rpms to feel the full power of my engine. Is like turbo-lag without any boost at all.
 

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Biggest issue is that it will cause premature power loss due to heat soak coming on quicker and strong effect during summer months at city stop and go speeds. The Takeda model does not isolate the airbox so it just sucks in all that hot engine bay air. Power tests don't take this issue into their figures because it's hard to reproduce on a dyno vs real world driving.

MPG should actually increase though due to the hot air injection. In the winter, this setup could be a major plus for those in very cold climates.

The Injen model is much better for performance because it's a true cold air intake, but the filter sits pretty low to the ground so I'm not too thrilled about that. Plus, unlike the I4 version, the V6-Injen doesn't convert to short ram (single piece) in case you want to change setups during rain season months.

Frankly, I'd skip both until someone comes up with a true isolated air box design to minimize hot air while being worry free with potential hydrolock.

In the meantime, keep your eye on the downpipe that should come out this year - proven power gains with no fear of anything.
 

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It's worth it to me. It sound great in all RPMs not just in vtec. I think it sounds the best when I shift to 5th around 3000 rpm. There was a slight performance increase. I actually barked my tires a few times when I first got it and I wasn't trying to. As for the heat. Aluminum is more heat resistant than plastic. If you want it to resist more heat you could wrap it in gold. McLaren actually used gold as a heat shield on the f1. The coating on the black one will help some though. The black one also comes with a oiled filter to. The intake comes with a heat shield. even though it doesn't completely block it off from the engine. It does keep the cool air that does come from the resonator in the area the filter is in and pushes the hot air out. The only time you would get some heat soak would be from a stop. I seem to get the same MPG. Well I might be getting better MPG. But I cant keep my foot off the gas and hearing the roar. Over all im glad I bout it and would advise you to get one ASAP.
 

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Basque Red Fury
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It's worth it to me. It sound great in all RPMs not just in vtec. I think it sounds the best when I shift to 5th around 3000 rpm. There was a slight performance increase. I actually barked my tires a few times when I first got it and I wasn't trying to. As for the heat. Aluminum is more heat resistant than plastic. If you want it to resist more heat you could wrap it in gold. McLaren actually used gold as a heat shield on the f1. The coating on the black one will help some though. The black one also comes with a oiled filter to. The intake comes with a heat shield. even though it doesn't completely block it off from the engine. It does keep the cool air that does come from the resonator in the area the filter is in and pushes the hot air out. The only time you would get some heat soak would be from a stop. I seem to get the same MPG. Well I might be getting better MPG. But I cant keep my foot off the gas and hearing the roar. Over all im glad I bout it and would advise you to get one ASAP.
+1, definitely.

My car chirps second gear every time now. It never used to, pre-intake. It did right after the intake was installed.

SRI has the benefit of fastest throttle response, which I'll take especially in city driving.

Btw I don't foresee "heat soak" as an issue... The term applies most specifically with the effects of poor cooling or heat dissipation and turbocharged (and intercooled) engines.


I support you buying the black one, I did.


Also, the engine gives off this evil sound of dissonance at 2500+ that I find absolutely delicious. Totally agree with Roll Tide. See video in signature
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks you guys. I still gonna go a little more research and maybe it its convince me I'll order one next month. BTW it is true, aluminum is more heat resistant than plastic in terms of melting point but plastic will transfer that heat to the air at a more much slower rate. Imagine you are having a coffee and you have a plastic cup and a metal cup, definitely a metal cup will burn you hands because metals are good heat conductors, plastics are not.

Biggest issue is that it will cause premature power loss due to heat soak coming on quicker and strong effect during summer months at city stop and go speeds. The Takeda model does not isolate the airbox so it just sucks in all that hot engine bay air. Power tests don't take this issue into their figures because it's hard to reproduce on a dyno vs real world driving.

MPG should actually increase though due to the hot air injection. In the winter, this setup could be a major plus for those in very cold climates.

The Injen model is much better for performance because it's a true cold air intake, but the filter sits pretty low to the ground so I'm not too thrilled about that. Plus, unlike the I4 version, the V6-Injen doesn't convert to short ram (single piece) in case you want to change setups during rain season months.

Frankly, I'd skip both until someone comes up with a true isolated air box design to minimize hot air while being worry free with potential hydrolock.

In the meantime, keep your eye on the downpipe that should come out this year - proven power gains with no fear of anything.
Thanks for you input. BTW you are the second person that talks to me about this "downpipe" that gives true power to your car. Definitely caught my attention, il keep an eye on it.
 

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I regret how much I payed for mine. Although I must say with the oiled intake on the black version of the intake is the best version and the one to get. The intake makes the car much more fun to drive. I would say its 15 hp at times in gain. The car will burn the tires shifting from 1st to second to the point where I have to come off the throttle in fear that I would blind the driver behind me. I would also recommend resetting your ecu by unplugging the battery when you install it. Find it for a good price and buy it. :naughty:
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
hmmmm what would be a good price for example? Also have you guys had any issues with the warranty? I will take my car to honda for oild change, cant beat full synthetic with oem filter for $41.00
 

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I would wait for a knock brand and purchase a quality filter to combine with. I'm sure ypull save at least $100-$150 doing this. $200+ for a intake is a little out of my spending range.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I would wait for a knock brand and purchase a quality filter to combine with. I'm sure ypull save at least $100-$150 doing this. $200+ for a intake is a little out of my spending range.
ahahaha I feel you man, the most I've spent on a filter was like $99 (Just for the filter) in my Nissan 300ZX (no longer have it) It was called a JWT POP Charger and it fitted right on the MAF, no need to replace piping at all.
 

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I had it installed and it sounds great. Absolutely roars with the blue filter at high rpm. At normal throttle and steady cruising its as quiet as the stock intake. I am not sure that heat loss is an issue. The additional air this system is bringing in more than likely offsets any heat loss. Keep in mind the air intake path for the Accord starts at the top of the radiator support and then travels all the way down inside the bumper, through resonators then all the way back up to air box before entering the engine. The only way they could have made it less efficient is starting it at teh back of the car.

I definitely felt a seat of the pants improvement in power. I also did notice a slight increase in fuel economy on the highway. According to the car, I got 34 miles per gallon on a mostly 75-70 mph 150 mile highway run recently. Not to shabby.

I did have a check engine light issue which I thought was being caused by the intake, but may not have been. I am going to give my car a month or so to readjust to not having the intake then going to reinstall it.

Also have the Borla exhaust on order :)
 

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I would wait for a knock brand and purchase a quality filter to combine with. I'm sure ypull save at least $100-$150 doing this. $200+ for a intake is a little out of my spending range.
Not sure this is a great idea. There are coolant and vacuum hoses that would need to be replaced and connected to the intake. You get what you pay for. If and when some knock offs become available they will more than likely be made in China. I prefer to support quality American manufacturing, and I can also add AFE's tech support has been extremely helpful and responsive.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Actually heat loss is not the issue but heat soak is, and that means pretty much when the engine sucks a sh!tload of hot air. In a nut shell, the colder the air, the more dense. Density is defined my mass/volume, higher density means more air mass in the same amount of volume which ultimately result in more combustion, therefore MORE POWER!!!! lol. Anyway the stock filter nozzle as you stated is right above the radiator but it breathes fresh and cold air from the grille.


Ultimately a K/N filter in place of the factory would be the ultimate setup right? High flow filter combined with fresh air from outsie....well only "in theory" but of course we need to hear that GROWL!!!!!!! hahaha so K/N doesnt really work for us.


now the good news.......


As Jaretr1 said a good quality Short Ram intake can out perform factory and the reason for this is mostly due to air flow regardless of temp. Factory intake might be good at breathing fresh air, but factory pipes have lots of chambers (used to reduce noise) resulting in a turbulent air flow, if you are an engineer or at least have any knowledge on fluid dynamics or aerodynamics you'll know is bad but for those who doesn't, turbulent flows are extremely inefficient ( notice how turbulence in a flight instantly shakes the plane.. thats how bad they are, see this image if you want to picture this better http://blog.nialbarker.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/03/laminar_turbulent_flow.gif ). A short ram intake will allow air to be more laminar and to go directly into the combustion chamber, outperforming stock intake system. The less turns the pipe has, the more laminar, same goes for exhaust pipes btw.



Bottomline it is worth every penny to invest in a good quality intake or exhaust pipes with least turns as possible and if you can get mandrels. Trust me, no knock off brand design will be better that what honda engineers put a lot of effort into. BUY GOOD QUALITY!!!
 

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I exchanged some emails with the AFE rep and basically he said in response in response to heat soak or heat loss is this. The only time the intake would be sucking in warm air is when the car is at idle, and then since there is no throttle pressure, it does not matter whether its hot or cold air getting in. Once the car is moving, the air coming in through the grill and front of the car is pushing the hot air out so its not a factor. The intake is then sucking in whatever air it can get which comes not only from that airflow but also from the oem air intake outlet as well. So basically, as I suspected, heat soak or heat loss isnt a factor this a short ram outflows the stock intake so significantly the performance improvements are in fact palatable.
 

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Just as the tittle says, does it worth it? Anybody have actually run some number on the benefits of this intake? other than vtec sound?


To be honest with you guys, I dont care about VTEC sound and much less use it as a determinant wether to buy an aftermarket intake system or not. Factory box breathes fresh air from outside while takeda seems to breathe hot air from the engine bay. As simple as it sounds I find this counterproductive, but they claim over 10hp gain by using their system. Is this really true? Also what about gas mileage, does it actually improves?

If I would by the takeda I'll get the black one because it looks better and hopefully is made of plastic ( smaller heat transfer gradient compared to the metal one, hence less heat added to intake air flow)

Though, feedback? Thanks in advanced?

BTW VTEC is not for power but for fuel economy in low revs. I hate having to wait until 4,900 rpms to feel the full power of my engine. Is like turbo-lag without any boost at all.
Is it worth it? First, thanks to one of our own forum members, Bigrod, we have some actual performance before and after runs.

Stock:
http://youtu.be/l9fOXHUDkcc

w/ Takeda:
http://youtu.be/m9gvSN4ffJc

Taken from thread:
http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=133810&page=11


Bigrod’s Takeda knocked .3 to .4 seconds off his 20-80 mph run. To me, that is pretty big and is clear evidence that an intake is more than just sound. It does make the car faster. Hopefully that helps answer part of your question.


Here is a slight twist on the “Is it worth it” question. Here is a link for a few dyno runs that compare various intakes systems on a Scion FR-S.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?annota...&feature=iv&src_vid=QPIeswanaJw&v=3DbkmThHYMs

The link above is for a basic K&N panel drop in. On a Scion, the panel filter added 5.7 hp. The link below is for the Takeda intake on the same car.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?annota...&feature=iv&src_vid=3DbkmThHYMs&v=VeEpMsKWek0

The Takeda intake added 6.3 hp to the Scion compared to 5.7 hp for the K&N panel filter. That is just .6 hp more. On a V6 Accord, I would guess the increase might be 1 hp. Based on these dynos, there is very little difference between a panel filter and an SRI. I would argue that this is because the OEM intake system is pretty efficient. Almost all of the gains are because of a less restrictive air filter.

I’m about to throw curve ball here. I believe the stock intake is very good. I particularly like the fact that the OEM airbox houses the OEM MAF sensor. They are designed to work together. To me, the only real drawback of the OEM system is the long length of tubing. In my car, I wanted the extra power of a better intake but did not want the risk of messing up the OEM air intake and MAF readings.

So here’s what I did. I purchased a used OEM airbox from a forum member for $40 – air filter included. I then drilled several one-inch holes in the bottom portion. The effect of drilling the holes in my air box was to increase the “total opening” by about 40%. I then replaced the lower portion of my OEM air box with the Swiss-cheesed box and included a K&N panel filter I bought for $36.

According to my scan gauge, with my stock set up the air intake temperature (AIT) usually ran 10°F above the outside air temp. After I installed my Swiss-Cheese air box, the AIT remained at 10°F above the outside air temp. The extra holes did not cause the engine to inhale hot engine bay air. It remained just as cold.

However when I floor my car and my engine needs large amounts of air very rapidly, instead of drawing 100% of the air through the long “restrictive” OEM plumbing, it gets some of the air through the holes I drilled. I can hear a little psssst sound. When floored, the holes definitely relieve most of that restriction, very much like an SRI.

With this hybrid set-up, I get the benefits of a low restriction air filter – just like any cone filter you’d have on an SRI or CAI. I get the benefits of a less restrictive intake plumbing when floored (holes). I keep the benefits of cold air for most of the intake. And best of all it still uses the OEM intake plumbing so there is no chance of distorting the MAF signal to the computer.

Is this for most people? Probably not. But for me, I think I get 99% of the performance gains created by a top quality SRI with no “hot air” compromise. To me, this was definitely worth the cost.

And as bonus I can throw my OEM filter on in one minute. Like right now, all my highways have a HUGE amount of salt dust in the air from the snow. It is so dense it looks foggy. I don’t trust my K&N filter to filter out those “super small” particles. So for now I have the OEM filter in the car. In a week or a month or whenever the roads are clean again, I’ll throw in the K&N for that extra whopping .3 second reduction in my 0-60 time.
 

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Basque Red Fury
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For those who think it isn't worth it, check the 30-70 time in my video (in signature). It's about 4.5 seconds. That's close to BMW 335 territory
 

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In my case, I removed the resonator chamber (Honda part #17230-5G0-A00) in the fender well and added a K&N filter panel. Acts just like a CAI.
 

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I remember reading somewhere that the K&N filters (and for that matter the similar type of Oiled filter from AFE power actually do a better job of cleaning the air coming into the intake than a paper filter because of the oil. Flow and clean better.

The intake for the Accord is extremely restrictive. While a drop in performance filter will help, I doubt it will even show on a dyno in our cars. I am surprised that alone netted 5 hp on a Scion. I would seriously question that test results accuracy.

I wish it were possible to test all of these "home made" intake improvements vs the engineered intakes from the various manufacturers. My guess it the engineered manufactured intakes would always win.
 

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Not to hijack the thread, but does anyone have any issues with engine check light comes on and a message of "emission problem" appears? I just installed the intake for my 2014 Touring and took it to the store and everything seemed fine, however, on the way back the engine check light comes on with the accompanied message as mentioned above. I checked the vacuum hose and it seems fine. Should I reinstall the stock air intake or keep on driving for the car to adjust? Thanks in advance!
 

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Not to hijack the thread, but does anyone have any issues with engine check light comes on and a message of "emission problem" appears? I just installed the intake for my 2014 Touring and took it to the store and everything seemed fine, however, on the way back the engine check light comes on with the accompanied message as mentioned above. I checked the vacuum hose and it seems fine. Should I reinstall the stock air intake or keep on driving for the car to adjust? Thanks in advance!
Where is that message coming on? I had a check engine light and I pulled the code (with my torque app) and it had something to do with the maf sensing a high volume of air. I might have also not connected one of the connectors I disconnected. Double check all your fittings and hoses are tight, and you reconnected all the connections. I think there were 3 I disconnected altogether. If everything looks ok, give the car about 500 miles to see if the light goes off. The ECU does have to adjust.
 
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