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Discussion Starter #1
Shopping for brake rotors

I will need to replace my brake pads soon, and am considering replacing my front rotors again. While shopping around, I'm starting to think why not just do all 4 rotors and buy some coated ones instead of the previously purchased un-coated fronts. Autozone sells their Duralast gold rotors with a black rust inhibition compound, which right now seems desirable. So my choices are as follows:

Regular unpainted rotors
Autozone - $31.99 front, $26.99 rear ($100.36 to my door with code)
Raybestos (rockauto) - $18.10 front, $15.31 rear ($24.98 shipping, $91.80 to my door)

Coated/painted rotors
Autozone - $52.99 front, $37.99 rear ($154.81 to my door with LABORDAY20 coupon code)
fully coated, you wear off the protection with your pads during break-in

Centric (rockauto) - $40.99 front, $22.79 rear ($15.98 shipping, $143.54 to my door)
painted on non-braking surfaces just like OEM


It was mentioned on another thread this week that the best looking caliper color is black, hence my interest in the Duralast rotors, but everybody here recommends the Centrics so maybe that's where I should invest my time and money. I will likely be replacing the pads now as well since they have 70k on them and after going through 2 sets of fronts, they are probably worn (I will check before spending unnecessary money). So what does the community recommend?
 

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I got Brembo rotors from Rock Auto some time last year and they've been holding up well. I normally get the Duralast from Autozone since they are cheap but they would develop pulsation too soon. I also noticed their pads start to crack and lose chunks. They do have lifetime warranty and I got them replaced once but I didn't want to keep doing that. (Maybe alternator I would keep replacing :paranoid:)

The Brembos I got are coated so they haven't rusted and I haven't had any pulsation. I also opted for OEM pads.

I did cheap out on the rears a few months ago because I was getting ready to do a long drive. I got a set from Advance and painted them with some clear I had sitting around. So far no rust in 2 months.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I got Brembo rotors from Rock Auto some time last year and they've been holding up well. I normally get the Duralast from Autozone since they are cheap but they would develop pulsation too soon. I also noticed their pads start to crack and lose chunks. They do have lifetime warranty and I got them replaced once but I didn't want to keep doing that. (Maybe alternator I would keep replacing :paranoid:)

The Brembos I got are coated so they haven't rusted and I haven't had any pulsation. I also opted for OEM pads.

I did cheap out on the rears a few months ago because I was getting ready to do a long drive. I got a set from Advance and painted them with some clear I had sitting around. So far no rust in 2 months.
I guess I get scared away from Brembo because of the name, it sounds like a race-car part that has no business in my I4 Accord. I'll look into those as well.
 

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I guess I get scared away from Brembo because of the name, it sounds like a race-car part that has no business in my I4 Accord. I'll look into those as well.
Brembo makes oem replacements for many vehicles and they're excellent. having racing part DNA in your mainstream products is a good thing.
 

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Discussion Starter #5

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@easymike

They make plain ones without the the cross drill pattern.

They are commonly called Brembo blanks. They are a bit more pricey and I couldn't use a coupon on them. So far the extra $ is worth it to me because they are holding up well.
 

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I would advise going with a rotor that has a high carbon content which is a higher quality a less prone to warping and cracking. I've had good experience with R1 Concepts company and their R1 Premier line of high carbon blanks. The R1 Premier Series are a step up from their E-line blanks (the E-lines are similar to the softer Honda blanks).

https://www.r1concepts.com/listing/index/Brake-Rotors/Allsubcat/R1-Premier-Series

You can choose OEM, drilled, slotted, or drilled & slotted.

From their site:
R1 Premier Series rotors provide the ultimate stopping power needed for demanding driving and harsh conditions. Manufactured using more Carbon, Chromium, and Molybdenum, these High Carbon rotors offer increased braking performance and strength. A center split core casting provides greater stability. Black Electro Coating protects against rust while extending rotor life. Mill balancing and double disc grinding reduces thickness variations for smoother stopping, minimal vibration, and improved break-in.

Best of luck with your brake choice :wink
 

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Why have you all replaced the rotors in the first place? Did you do so because you HAD to or because you WANTED to? I've very rarely replaced a rotor on any car I've owned. My bought-new 85 MR2 had the original rotors on it when I sold it with 278,000 miles on it and the brakes worked great. Never replaced a rotor on my 268,000 mile 93 Prelude either. My wife's GTI VR6 got new front rotors at about 150,000 miles since one of them got chewed up a little when a pad got kinked out of alignment and chewed up the rotor a little bit.
 

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I would stay away from Raybestos if they are the pro. line, they will warp. The mid tech. line are OK and better quality. Brembo use to be a top rotor but some years ago they started making them in China, quality slipped (China has some of the lowest grade iron ore in the world). Brembo may have corrected that by now. I have read that some people were getting Brembo's made in Italy. As 69ssrscam said, look for higher carbon content. Better quality rotors / brake pads may save you from an accident. Not an area to cheap out on. I like Hawk pads. WhiteOrchid : I use brake pads that street racers use. I want to be able to stop my car in the shortest distance. These types of pads wear down the rotor very fast, that is why I change pads & rotors at the same time.
 

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I have bought several centric rotors, they have any kind you want from high carbon to drilled and slotted even cryo. The cheapest place on the net I have found is www.stockwiseauto.com . The coating seems to be staying on the rotors.
 

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I've had the Centric Premium E-Coated rotors on my car for the last 5 years, with 70K miles in that time. Not a single problem with them in that time, and they are still as smooth as can be. I haven't inspected them with the wheels off in a while, but I just checked them in the parking lot. The black coating has apparently started to wear off, as there is a small amount of surface rust on the outside edges of the discs. But I see this as just a cosmetic issue, that after 5 years isn't a big deal. I'm still very happy with my Centric rotors.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Why have you all replaced the rotors in the first place? Did you do so because you HAD to or because you WANTED to? I've very rarely replaced a rotor on any car I've owned. My bought-new 85 MR2 had the original rotors on it when I sold it with 278,000 miles on it and the brakes worked great. Never replaced a rotor on my 268,000 mile 93 Prelude either. My wife's GTI VR6 got new front rotors at about 150,000 miles since one of them got chewed up a little when a pad got kinked out of alignment and chewed up the rotor a little bit.
I replaced them because I was unhappy with the way it felt braking the car at highway speeds when the rotors were warm. the judder is coming back, but nowhere near as bad as it was with the stock rotors. I am also unhappy with the rust forming on the replacement rotors as they were not painted while the original rotors were.
 

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Why have you all replaced the rotors in the first place? Did you do so because you HAD to or because you WANTED to? I've very rarely replaced a rotor on any car I've owned. My bought-new 85 MR2 had the original rotors on it when I sold it with 278,000 miles on it and the brakes worked great. Never replaced a rotor on my 268,000 mile 93 Prelude either. My wife's GTI VR6 got new front rotors at about 150,000 miles since one of them got chewed up a little when a pad got kinked out of alignment and chewed up the rotor a little bit.
People like you brag that they never replaced the rotors but you don't ever tell us why they need to be replaced. I've had an Frs and Civic Si that had no problems with braking. Both the accords I've had got warped brakes quickly. I wasn't the first owner and within 10k of buying the car the brakes warped. Usually from when I drive 80+ and use the brakes to slow down rapidly. I need brakes that can withstand that kind of driving. Besides driving at high speeds what am I doing wrong?
 

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People like you brag that they never replaced the rotors but you don't ever tell us why they need to be replaced. I've had an Frs and Civic Si that had no problems with braking. Both the accords I've had got warped brakes quickly. I wasn't the first owner and within 10k of buying the car the brakes warped. Usually from when I drive 80+ and use the brakes to slow down rapidly. I need brakes that can withstand that kind of driving. Besides driving at high speeds what am I doing wrong?
What you are doing wrong: You brake hard and then sit at a stop light, or sit at the bottom of an off-ramp. Your brake pad material is cooking onto your brake rotors for those 10-60 seconds. As it rapidly cools, the brake pad material is fused onto the rotor- giving the illusion of "warped rotors". It takes a lot, a hella lot, to actually warp an iron rotor. Spraying your car and hot rotors and wheels at a car wash can actually warp metal- as it cools too rapidly.
 

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People like you brag that they never replaced the rotors but you don't ever tell us why they need to be replaced.
What? Your statement doesn't make a lot of sense.

From a purely mechanical maintenance perspective, a rotor needs to be replaced when it becomes too worn or damaged to function properly. It can become too worn if in service too long and is no longer the proper minimum thickness or becomes deeply grooved by poorly maintained brake system parts. Most "warped" rotors can be brought back into useful service by turning them to fresh surfaces assuming the remainder of the system is not faulty and assuming turning the rotors does not make them too thin.

As Rick explained, the best practice is to use the braking system properly to avoid damaging the rotors in the first place. If you need to make a moderate or hard stop from a high speed, leave yourself a little bit of room when stopped to creep forward a little at a time thus not planting the pad on the super hot rotor in exactly the same spot for any length of time. If practical, you can put the car in park or neutral (assuming an auto trans) and take your foot off the brake altogether. Even better is to allow room to slow down gradually without using the brakes or only using the brakes gently or at least not needing the brakes until you've slowed down considerably.

Bottom line, the quality of the rotor has a lot less to do with the perceived "warping" than does the driving technique used. Higher quality rotors will be heavier and thus shuck off the heat better/quicker, but will only buy you a very small margin of extra room for abuse concerning this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That's the brakes

And... ORDERED

Centric premium coated front/rear rotors with Centric posi-quiet ceramic pads.

Dealer did oil change and new tire installation today and informed me that one of my rear pads was worn down to almost the backplate. I lied and told her I already had them on order, but they'll arrive this week, so close enough. Since I already wanted to replace at least the front rotors, and now have to replace the rear pads, the choice was easy. Will post a follow up with pics because I can.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Delivered

And delivered. Will post pics when I have time to unwrap packaging. With any luck, these will all go on Saturday morning. I've already posted a thread installing my old front rotors, but those were temporary. Hopefully these coated Centrics will be a long-term replacement. I plan to post a DIY for the rear rotors and pads.
 

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You'll be very happy with components you have chosen!
 
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