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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I'm needing some technical help/info for my new Accord. I'm wanting to upgrade from my stock "160 watt" system that came with my EX, and I'm not sure what to get.

I know I want to get a dual din dvd/cd/mp3 touchscreen for the dash (wasn't sure if they made a dash kit yet for these models, but luckily I found the kits from Metra that should work nicely), I want a couple 12" subs in the trunk, and I'd like to have components in the doors and back deck that are amplified.

Problem is, I don't know a whole heck of a lot about car audio. I put a $600 system that I pieced together in an S10 Xtreme I used to have, along with a friend's help, but that was a lot simpler system than I'm wanting, and I'm not sure how to go about everything for the Accord.

First of all I want to mention that I'm not looking for a competition quality sound system, but I don't want something mediocre either. I just don't want to invest $300 per sub into this thing, and have multiple amps running to just the subs. I just want good clean/clear bass, with a hard enough kick to get the attention of innocent bystanders, LOL. I'm looking into Kenwood dual din HU's from sonicelectronix, and possibly a Pioneer or other decent brand (though I haven't been impressed with the later model Pioneers...they've lost alot of quality since the days of my old Pioneer Premier unit, IMHO).

I'm not sure how much I'm going to be able to spend, and how long it'll take to get everything for the install, but I don't want to skimp on quality, so I'm just going to save what it takes and probably get everything at once (or maybe a piece at a time), and wait to have it installed...And that's another thing, I intend to let someone professional do the install, as I don't feel I'm qualified to tackle a job this big, and I don't want to screw things up, being as how this is my first brand new car, and I'll be paying for it for another 4.5 years, LOL. I just want to know what to look for, and what to tell an audio shop I expect, so I don't look clueless coming in there (don't know about other places, but where I live, most car audio shops tend to slop things together, and charge outrageously to do so...just want to show myself knowledgeable enough to let them know exactly what and how I want things done, so there are no mistakes).

I do know I want to retain my factory steering controls as well as the USB and 3.5mm Aux. inputs in the console...I've seen the steering wheel control module/adapter to retain those functions, but I haven't seen an adapter/module for the factory USB/Aux. inputs...do they even make one of these?

Also, can anyone explain a bit more about the sound quality/other difference in component speakers vs. regular speakers? I have seen numerous praises of how they are better than typical speakers, but I don't know much about what they do differently.

How does one go about wiring an amplifier up from the head unit to the speakers (mid range/tweeters)? I know how to hook up a mono amplifier from head unit to a set of subs, but I don't want to have to cut into my regular wiring harness for the rest of the speakers to have them amplified as well. I have seen some line out/rca converters that I assume are for such a task, but I don't know if they even make one of those yet for my 2012 accord (I saw one for a 7th gen. accord, but wasn't able to locate one for the 8th gen.).

I've been looking at RE Audio, MTX, and Kicker as potential subwoofer options, and I'm kindof lost when it comes to the rest of the speakers (perhaps there are also other good quality, reasonably priced subwoofers to choose form as well, but those are the brands I've looked at in my price range that I'm familiar with). I know I'll be spending about $300-$400 on my double din head unit, and I expect I'll probably spend about as much or a little more on a decent set of subs with box and amp, and I'm not really sure how much the midrange/tweeters are going to cost along with an amp, but hopefully the other costs give everyone a round about idea of what I'm looking to spend on this install...

I know that's alot to cover, but I truly appreciate any and all information you guys have that you could offer me, lol. As you can see I've got alot to learn about this stuff, but I just want to be as well-informed as possible so this goes smoothly.


One more quick question also, lol...Does anyone have a rough guestimate of what a shop would probably charge to do an install similar to what I'm looking to have done? I'm fairly confident I can do a good job installing the head unit and a couple other minor little things, if that would help lower an expensive instlal price quite a bit...but if I can get it done reasonably, I'll save up enough to have them do it all.

Thanks to everyone who responds, and God Bless! :)
 

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Hey guys, I'm needing some technical help/info for my new Accord. I'm wanting to upgrade from my stock "160 watt" system that came with my EX, and I'm not sure what to get.

I know I want to get a dual din dvd/cd/mp3 touchscreen for the dash (wasn't sure if they made a dash kit yet for these models, but luckily I found the kits from Metra that should work nicely), I want a couple 12" subs in the trunk, and I'd like to have components in the doors and back deck that are amplified.
A couple 12's won't really fit.
Might be able to make 3 10's work, though.

Problem is, I don't know a whole heck of a lot about car audio. I put a $600 system that I pieced together in an S10 Xtreme I used to have, along with a friend's help, but that was a lot simpler system than I'm wanting, and I'm not sure how to go about everything for the Accord.

First of all I want to mention that I'm not looking for a competition quality sound system, but I don't want something mediocre either. I just don't want to invest $300 per sub into this thing, and have multiple amps running to just the subs. I just want good clean/clear bass, with a hard enough kick to get the attention of innocent bystanders, LOL. I'm looking into Kenwood dual din HU's from sonicelectronix, and possibly a Pioneer or other decent brand (though I haven't been impressed with the later model Pioneers...they've lost alot of quality since the days of my old Pioneer Premier unit, IMHO).
2 amps is all you'll need
1 amp for the sub(s)
and 1 for the front stage

I'm not sure how much I'm going to be able to spend, and how long it'll take to get everything for the install, but I don't want to skimp on quality, so I'm just going to save what it takes and probably get everything at once (or maybe a piece at a time), and wait to have it installed...And that's another thing, I intend to let someone professional do the install, as I don't feel I'm qualified to tackle a job this big, and I don't want to screw things up, being as how this is my first brand new car, and I'll be paying for it for another 4.5 years, LOL. I just want to know what to look for, and what to tell an audio shop I expect, so I don't look clueless coming in there (don't know about other places, but where I live, most car audio shops tend to slop things together, and charge outrageously to do so...just want to show myself knowledgeable enough to let them know exactly what and how I want things done, so there are no mistakes).
Your best bet would be to set a certain amount you're willing to spend and buy all at once.
You need around 3 budgets
1 for actual hardware. Headunit, speakers, amps, subs, box..etc
1 for wiring and misc interconnects
1 for the actual install itself.

If u can do this yourself, go for it. Lot of uneducated folk running shops nowadays. and with the power of the internet, you can learn what you need to very fast.
I do know I want to retain my factory steering controls as well as the USB and 3.5mm Aux. inputs in the console...I've seen the steering wheel control module/adapter to retain those functions, but I haven't seen an adapter/module for the factory USB/Aux. inputs...do they even make one of these?
More than likely, whatever double din you purchase will have those options. No need for the stock ones.

Also, can anyone explain a bit more about the sound quality/other difference in component speakers vs. regular speakers? I have seen numerous praises of how they are better than typical speakers, but I don't know much about what they do differently.
Depends on what you're looking for
Laid back smooth sound or something that's "in your face"

How does one go about wiring an amplifier up from the head unit to the speakers (mid range/tweeters)? I know how to hook up a mono amplifier from head unit to a set of subs, but I don't want to have to cut into my regular wiring harness for the rest of the speakers to have them amplified as well. I have seen some line out/rca converters that I assume are for such a task, but I don't know if they even make one of those yet for my 2012 accord (I saw one for a 7th gen. accord, but wasn't able to locate one for the 8th gen.).
The double din you purchase will have the pre-outs to hook up the amps. LOC is def not needed.

I've been looking at RE Audio, MTX, and Kicker as potential subwoofer options, and I'm kindof lost when it comes to the rest of the speakers (perhaps there are also other good quality, reasonably priced subwoofers to choose form as well, but those are the brands I've looked at in my price range that I'm familiar with). I know I'll be spending about $300-$400 on my double din head unit, and I expect I'll probably spend about as much or a little more on a decent set of subs with box and amp, and I'm not really sure how much the midrange/tweeters are going to cost along with an amp, but hopefully the other costs give everyone a round about idea of what I'm looking to spend on this install...
You can get a good sub for <$200 now. Spend the majority of speaker money on your front stage. After all, it does play 99% of the frequency range.


One more quick question also, lol...Does anyone have a rough guestimate of what a shop would probably charge to do an install similar to what I'm looking to have done? I'm fairly confident I can do a good job installing the head unit and a couple other minor little things, if that would help lower an expensive instlal price quite a bit...but if I can get it done reasonably, I'll save up enough to have them do it all.

Thanks to everyone who responds, and God Bless! :)
All shops charge different prices.

Some charge 50 an hr..some charge 100 an hr..all depends on where you go.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Re:

Thanks for the quick reply mrmondaynight!

Do you mean the 12's won't fit perfectly in the back of the trunk? I figured there'd be plenty enough room, but I never really thought to measure it yet (I'll be wanting to have the box face the back seat, so I can lower the back seats and have the subs facing the inside cabin while driving). I could always do a couple 10's if not, but I'd really like to have my 12's (had a couple 12" MTX's in my old ex-cab S10, and they sounded way better than the 10's I was experienced with afterwards).

I never even thought about the fact that there are 3 different sets of RCA outputs on the head units I'm looking at, lol, thanks for the heads up on that...so does that mean it would still be okay to hook up the stock wiring harness for the front stage speakers, along with have the RCA outputs hooked up to the amp and speakers (considering the wiring harness is all-in-one, and still controls power, volume, remote wire, etc.)?

Yeah I've been adding up everything, and I'm also going to be adding in the factors such as wiring, dash kit, adapters for the speakers (found some adapters to make the 6 1/2's an easy mount into the stock placement on the doors, along with adapters for the stock wire connectors on those speakers, so I don't have to cut the stock wiring and re-solder).

As far as the USB and Aux. inputs, I just mainly wanted to keep the stock ones because I love how they're positioned in the car (I'd much rather have my ipod hookup hid away nicely in my console, so it won't be as obvious to would-be thieves, so it would be out of the way, and so it would stay cooler when I'm parked at work, the store, etc.).

I totally agree on the subs being less emphasis than the front stage area. I want good thump, that won't blow out easily, but for most of my music, I want a good clear sound. I'm quite variant on what I listen to (Blues, Country, older Rock, even some bluegrass and occasional rap, lol)...I just want an all-around good quality sound system that I can enjoy Stevie Ray Vaughan, Eric Clapton, Brad Paisley, Metallica, Jerry Lee Lewis, Rhonda Vincent, Hazakim (Christian Hiphop) and B-SHOC (Christian Rap) on...how's that for variation? lol

I'm figuring I'll definitely go for components, but I'll have to look into it a bit more. Thanks for giving me a rough estimate on what a shop would cost. I wasn't sure if they tend to base it on an hourly rate or just the overall job...I may end up doing the head unit myself, and just leave most of the amp/speaker wiring up to them (that's where it gets tricky to me).
 

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12's need a lot of outspace

Esp Ported. What subs do you current have? what kind of box are they in?

With aftermarket components, you'll be better off running new wiring

I don't think you'll be able to utilize the stock aux once u have a aftermarket unit in.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Currently I don't have anything aftermarket audio, so no subs. I'm not sure what I'll be going with yet, but I have a friend in Georgia who has been working in car audio for 30 some years and he told me of a few really good brands for really cheap. He also mentioned that a possible reason it would be difficult (but perhaps not impossible) to have a couple 12's in my trunk would be because it's hard to get a box that's big enough for them to have the right amount of airspace, in the trunk compartment from the hatch. He said some people go through the interior, and just let down the seats, remove the rear deck, and put the box in, then reinstall everything. If I have to have that done, I'd probably go for it if it means getting 12" subs over 10". I'm pretty sure at this point, either way, that I'm going to have the subs facing the back seats, so I can lower the back seats when no one is riding with me (which is pretty much all the time), and have it ported to the inside of the cabin area.

Here's an idea he gave me too, on the front stage speakers (not sure if I'll go this route or not, but I thought I'd throw it out there and see what y'all thought). He said, since the stock speaker system in my car is pretty much already set up like components in the door (midrange down below, and tweeter next to the a pillar above), I could leave the stock tweeters functional, replace the 6 1/2's in the doors with components, replace the back deck speakers with 6 1/2 coaxials, and use the component tweeters as a center channel (and mount them somewhere in the middle on the console). He said I could get something like a 50x4 amp for the front components, and just let the rear deck speakers be run off the power of the head unit. Then I could get a couple subs and push around 500-600 watts RMS to them, and it should sound pretty good.
 

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You would need at least a 3.5" full range to fully utilize having a center channel.

Plus, 99% of music is 2 channel. You won't really benefit from it.
 

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You can fit a pair of 12's if you build your own box. 12's do need more internal air space but you can skimp on a little. All that will do is make a response hump in your output which wont really matter unless youre going for SQ competitions and wanting the flattest output possible. Still, a pair of 10's fit perfectly. I just bought this dual 10 enclosure from Crutchfield for $80 shipped and its a PERFECT fit. It wedges perfectly in the forward most part of the trunk with enough pressure to keep it from moving although you might want to slap an L bracket or two on there for good measure.

I actually prefer 10's myself. They just always seemed more musical to me but thats just me I guess. For sheer volume, 12's would be better since they can move more air.

As for amps, you can always go with a 5 channel. Itll cost a little bit more than a pair of amps but you can get away with having your whole system powered by a single amp which makes installation a whole lot easier and you dont have to give up any room. The best 5 channel out right now I think is this Alpine which has 100x4 and 500x1 @ 2 ohms. And its small enough that it would probably fit under the passenger seat! Downside, its $700!

A little more budget friendly would be this Rockford Fosgate for $350 which would deliver 50x4 but only 300x1 @ 2 ohms. Thats still a good bit of power but wont be a big whopping amount and may leave you wanting more. If you just want good sounding music and listen at musical levels, this would do the job then.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Ahhhh, yeah that makes sense. I'll probably just go ahead and replace the stock tweeters along with the 6 1/2's and let it go like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Thanks for the info MacLeod!

Yeah I may still look into the 10's, I just really liked my 12's better than the 10's I used to have (granted I might get better results with 10's if they're a better set, and with a better amp than I had with my 10's before).

I'm gonna look into having a custom box built, and see how much that would run, if it's too expensive I may just do the 10's. Thanks for the links on the amps and the enclosure! That is one SWEET Alpine amp...that'll push my budget a bit over what I was wanting to go, but if I can't find a route that works better, I'll give that a look.

I'm probably gonna want at least 400-500 RMS going to my subs...I mostly like good quality clean sound for my music, but I do like enough thump to rattle some windows around me, when I get the urge :)
 

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You could probably build the box yourself. Its not that complicated if you have a place to work and a jigsaw at least. Having one made would run you a couple hundred dollars at least as them boys charge by the hour and that ~$75/hr.

Trust me dude, you put a beefy pair of 10's in that box I linked you and put 600 watts or more to them, youll have plenty of output.

Some other amp choices could be this JBL 1000 watt for $320 then this JBL 50x4 for $160 (when it comes back in stock). That would be plenty of output and be a decent price as well.
 
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