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Hello,

I have had all warning lights pop up in my 2018 Honda accord multiple times now. The first time I brought the vehicle into the dealership in June and the supposed issue was rodent damage. This was not covered under warranty so I paid to have that repaired. Near end of July I pumped gas into the car and went to start it up after and I had 5 warning lights on including the Emission system problem, ACC, Lkas and two other alerts. I brought vehicle into the dealership a 2nd time and this time they said it was an issue with the CMP sensor. This was under warranty so they fixed the vehicle the 2nd time. Today I'm riding back and I'm almost home and all warning lights appear again so I took a photo of them all. These include Emissions system problem, ACC, LKAS, Brake system, Tire pressure, road departure mitigation, electric power steering, vehicle stability, hill start and collision mitigation.

Has anyone else had similar issues it's a 2018 accord with 16000 miles on it. View attachment 533079 View attachment 533080 View attachment 533081 View attachment 533082 View attachment 533083 View attachment 533084 View attachment 533085 View attachment 533086 View attachment 533087
Before spending a dime, reset your computer. Take off negative battery wire, wait 10 sec. put back on. See if that clears it up. I’ve found, Honda’s computers, at least with my car, needs resetting about once a month. Or it starts missing ,like one of the coils is bad, but not!
 

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Get a battery. You'll be stranded on the side of the road before long. Over 2 1/2 years of battery life, you're in the danger zone. I found out the hard way. The dealer would rather sell you parts and labor than tell you to get a battery.
I would agree - it's cheap insurance. The typical test that is done at those Auto Parts Stores is a not as good as a load test that makes the battery "work" under a load to see if it will not drop below a certain voltage (approximately 9.6v). Also make sure your battery terminals & cable (ends) are clean & shiny otherwise there could be a certain amount of resistance at those two points. It is also a good idea to check the ground at the other end of the negative battery terminal to ensure the ground is also not corroded.
 

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Hey guys just went through this and will pass on a couple of tech notes. Battery or jump start can trigger this. Pull battery cables, short them together for five minutes which causes a full reset on the ECU for the car. Re connect battery, allow something like 20+ minutes for it to fully be alive again. Obviously, be careful - do not short the battery just the plus and minus cables, use a tiny jumper if have one since it would melt if you made a mistake and not matter. Second a major sensor or part failure can jam the data bus and confused the computer which then produces tons of error messages at once as the ECU cannot talk to the all the different sensors and has no idea what is wrong.

In my case the high pressure booster pump for the direct injection had failed and it took Honda techs on the phone with the dealer to confirm it. I was six months past the three year warranty but I think the five year drive train warranty covered it so it didn't cost me anything. In my case the car would not drive properly and only accelerate slightly on the two mile drive to the dealer.
 

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It could be your battery. I rather doubt it though.

A car battery will be about 12 V with the car off and over 13 V when the engine is running. A depleted battery can often stay at 12 V under light load, but its voltage will take a big dive whenever a significant load is placed on it. That doesn't sound like your case.

Check out my thread for warning lights galore: LKAS and Auto Lights Faults

I recommend you disconnect your battery, let it sit for a few minutes, then reconnect the battery and then get some lunch. It takes 20-30 minutes for all systems to come back up, although technically it can be driven before then. I had to reset mine a few times due to warning lights and also some non-functional accessories. I chalked it up to being an early version of the new model. I fell into the habit of giving it a reset every six months or so.

Only after doing a hard re-boot would I check into battery health or sensor faults. Being a highly complex electronic system, I suspect that every once in a while a device will fall out of sync and causes the car to freak out.

I hear there is a software bulletin out for something similar to this, but I don't own my 2018 Sport anymore so I lost track. When you have it at the dealer next, ask them to see if it has all latest software.
 

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Will let you know just went to Autozone to get the codes. View attachment 533093
For sure keep me updated if battery fixes this , thanks and good luck 🍀👍🏼

Did the battery solve the issue?

Will let you know just went to Autozone to get the codes. View attachment 533093
Did replacing the battery work

There’s a recall for 2018-2019 Accords for faulty fuel pumps which might explain the P0087 code. Does your VIN fall under the recall?
Where can i check ? With my vin

.
 

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Can we PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make this a sticky:

IF ALL YOUR WARNING LIGHTS COME ON IT IS THE BATTERY OR THE BATTERY CABLES!!!
 

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Can we PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE make this a sticky:

IF ALL YOUR WARNING LIGHTS COME ON IT IS THE BATTERY OR THE BATTERY CABLES!!!
Make sure the battery cables & terminals are clean (use battery wire cleaning tool) and shiny also. Resistance can build up over time between these two contact points.
 

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Hello i am having issues where the car gives me errors such as engine oil low but it just got replaced sometimes it goes away and sometimes i get another like tmps or cmbs but tires are fine and all at good set up . I did have an issue earlier this month where every code turned on and it said breaking mitigation error breaking reduced that seems to all have been fixed with the battery now its driving fine and letting me have the full breaks one day i went out there and car did not turn on so I replaced battery and its better in that aspect but there are errors popping up im thinking of a part but wanted to see if anyone thinks about same part any help is appreciated thank you im thinking the ecu might be bad
 

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I checked and my vehicle does not but if that's the issue then I'm not sure why all 2018 accords aren't on that recall.
Yea I mentioned that to them and they said that my car dosnt fall in the batch of cars with the faulty fuel pump but I lose acceleration when im driving it and I have to let off the gas and slowly press it in to accelerate again.
 

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Hello i am having issues where the car gives me errors such as engine oil low but it just got replaced sometimes it goes away and sometimes i get another like tmps or cmbs but tires are fine and all at good set up . I did have an issue earlier this month where every code turned on and it said breaking mitigation error breaking reduced that seems to all have been fixed with the battery now its driving fine and letting me have the full breaks one day i went out there and car did not turn on so I replaced battery and its better in that aspect but there are errors popping up im thinking of a part but wanted to see if anyone thinks about same part any help is appreciated thank you im thinking the ecu might be bad
Find a qualified tech to determine if it's a wiring problem, bad modules, or faulty ECU.
 
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