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Discussion Starter #1
I am considering buying 100 watt speakers for my non navi 07 accord. I have the base system and how would I hock up this system? Amp all of the speakers up, add a crossover to the front and amp up the back or vice versa? Also, how many watt amp will I need for this setup, and will 4 100 watt speakers plus tweeters sound great?
 

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i wouldn't say ignore but DO NOT buy speakers based on their powerhandling. what a bad bad misconception. what is the budget and can you do the installation
 

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i wouldn't say ignore but DO NOT buy speakers based on their powerhandling. what a bad bad misconception. what is the budget and can you do the installation
Ok I never knew that and my max amount of money I want to spend for everything is around $450. I can also do the work by myself, and I just want something that has decent bass, nice upgrade from stock, stock looking, and no subs.
 

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Ok I never knew that and my max amount of money I want to spend for everything is around $450. I can also do the work by myself, and I just want something that has decent bass, nice upgrade from stock, stock looking, and no subs.
okay so you're capable of doing the work on your own, that's a definite plus :thmsup:

I'm curious why you're adamantly against a sub? you can keep it small and use a grill if you're concerned with trunk area.

anyway, have you heard any aftermarket sets to see what sound you like? either bright or soft/layed back?
 

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The only reason I don't want a sub is because I do not want to lose trunk space. Do they make subs that fit in this corner as other cars do? if so do they sound good.
 

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If I'm right, your system has a 120 watt stereo. That's 30 watts per channel. If you want more power to your speakers (up the wattage), you'll have to get a 4 channel amplifier. My favorite brand of amps is JBL. I hear they put out almost exactly what they're rated for. Honestly, 400 watts is a lot. I have a 300 watt JBL amp for my speakers (75W x 4 channels), and it gets really loud. JBL speakers are good too. Make sure you check the RMS number on the speaker and go by it, not the max power rating or you'll definitely kill your speakers. If I remember, I bought some JBL speakers for my previous Accord, and they ran about $100 a pair. They're really clean and get loud when you turn them up. Infinity's another good brand too. I bought my current Accord used, and the previous owner put a damn good system in it with an aftermarket graphic equalizer installed in the cubby hole, Infinity speakers, tweeters mounted in the door panel, 3 Treo 10" subwoofers very nicely enclosed, 300 watt, 1 channel JBL amp for the subs, and 300 watt, 4 channel amp for the Infinity speakers. That should give you an idea for a setup. I suggest you do your research. Go to an audio shop and see what's hot and holds up. Get some speakers, but don't pay no more than $120 per pair unless you're really serious about a system. Tweeters should run on average $60 to $90 depending on the brand. You'll need some crossovers for your tweeters. Get a JBL 4 channel amp. Don't forget to throw in the wiring. I'm not sure how much 4 gauge or thicker wire runs per foot, but that's gonna add to your costs. I also recommend getting an inline fuse for your amp. Mine's mounted under the hood near the battery. If you can't afford it all right now, just get the door and rear deck speakers. That'll run about $200. You'll definitely hear a difference. Then, when you have the money, get an amp and then tweeters and crossovers. If you wanna save some money and don't mind ordering online, you can go to crutchfield.com or woofersetc.com. They both are extremely reputable, especially Crutchfield, and both sites offer discounts periodically.
 

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The only reason I don't want a sub is because I do not want to lose trunk space. Do they make subs that fit in this corner as other cars do? if so do they sound good.
Some manufacturers make a box for a custom fit in those areas. If they don't, then if you're good at math and figure out how much air volume your sub needs (whether it's sealed or ported), you and a buddy can build a box that fits there either out of fiberglass or MDF.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If I buy 60 watt speakers is there a way I could buy a 2 channel amp for the rear speakers and for the front and tweeters run them off the HU?
 

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You could buy 60W speakers for the rear, but in my opinion, that wouldn't be much of an upgrade when you can get all 4 new speakers. If you wanted to just get a 2 channel amp, you could run the back to an amplifier and leave the front ones unamplified. You will still need crossovers with your tweeters unless they're built-in. You need to remove the lows and mids from the tweeters so they don't blow. In this setup, your back speakers will get loud, and your front ones will not be as loud.

I think we can get 4 speakers and an amp under a budget. I'm not too sure about the tweeters though. Here's a good setup for you...

1. JBL GTO638 6-1/2" speakers -- $86.99 a pair. I've owned a previous version of the GTO series and they're crisp and loud. They're coaxial speakers, so the tweeters are built-in unlike components, which are more expensive but offer better sound quality ultimately. These speakers are rated 60W RMS and 180W max. http://www.woofersetc.com/p7979/GTO638--JBL-61-2"---63-4"-Grand-Touring-Series-3way-Speakers.htm

2. JBL GTO938 6" x 9" speakers -- $108.99 a pair. These are the matching rear deck speakers for the GTO638s. Since they're larger, they're rated at 100W RMS and 300W max. Definitely worth considering. http://www.woofersetc.com/p7978/GTO938--JBL-6"x-9"-Grand-Touring-Series-3way-Car-Loud-Speakers.htm

3. JBL GT5-A604 640W 4 channel amplifier -- $139.99. Don't be tricked by the 640W rating. That's the max rating. When you hook it up in 4 channel mode, it runs at 320W. That would put you out at 80W per channel, enough to power all 4 speakers without blowing or destroying your front 6-1/2" speakers. http://www.woofersetc.com/p9380/GT5A604--JBL-640Watt-4Channel-GT5-Series-Power-Amplifier.htm

4. POWERKIT-4 - American Accessories 4 Gauge Amp Kit --$39.99. You'll need to wire up your amp up to your battery. 4 gauges is enough if you don't plan on doing over 1000W to your system lol. This kit comes with everything you need to wire up an amp. http://www.woofersetc.com/p15/POWERKIT4--American-Accessories-4-Gauge-Amp-Kit.htm

If you buy all this, it should run you before shipping $375.96. If you don't have an aftermarket stereo, you'll need to find a fuse or wire to tap your remote wire (included in the amp kit) to so that your amplifier doesn't stay on all the time and drain your battery. I'd suggest running it to your stereo or 12V socket fuse. In my opinion, you don't really need tweeters if you're going to get coaxial speakers since they have built-in adjustable tweeters, but down the road if you want some, you can grab a pair of JBL P26t 1" tweeters for $89.99. They come with built-in crossovers, and you can tap them alongside your front speaker outputs of your 4 channel amp. Each tweeter is rated 60W RMS and 180W max. http://www.woofersetc.com/p9455/P26t--JBL-1"-Edge-Driven-Dome-Power-Series-Tweeters.htm

Anyway, I hope all this helps you. Message me back if you have more questions.
 

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Here is an alternative setup that replaces your stock speakers and includes components for the front:

Alpine Type R SPR-17S components ($149.99): http://www.woofersetc.com/p5240/SPR17S--Alpine-65"-2-Way-Component-Speaker-System.htm

Alpine Type R SPR-69C 6x9 coaxials ($109.99): http://www.woofersetc.com/p5242/SPR69C--Alpine-6-x-9"-2-Way-300-Watt-Speakers.htm

Alpine MRP-F300 Amp (50W x 4 channel @ 4 ohm; 75W x 4 channel @ 2 ohm - 169.99): http://www.woofersetc.com/p6250/MRPF300--Alpine-VPower-Series-4channel-300-Watt-Amplifier.htm

Aside from the above, you'll need a basic amp kit. You should also strongly consider running new speaker wire throughout the car.

For reference, I am about to upgrade the system on the same car (07 non-nav); however, I am going with new component fronts powered by a bridged 4 channel amp with a separate amp powering a 10" sub in the back. The components are going to take care of the mids and highs while the sub provides the bass - no need for rear 6x9s. I know you said you didn't want a sub, but it's an alternative to think about.

Edit - Here's a link to an install a guy did on an '07 using similar speakers to the ones above: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27902
 

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Here is an alternative setup that replaces your stock speakers and includes components for the front:

Alpine Type R SPR-17S components ($149.99): http://www.woofersetc.com/p5240/SPR17S--Alpine-65"-2-Way-Component-Speaker-System.htm

Alpine Type R SPR-69C 6x9 coaxials ($109.99): http://www.woofersetc.com/p5242/SPR69C--Alpine-6-x-9"-2-Way-300-Watt-Speakers.htm

Alpine MRP-F300 Amp (50W x 4 channel @ 4 ohm; 75W x 4 channel @ 2 ohm - 169.99): http://www.woofersetc.com/p6250/MRPF300--Alpine-VPower-Series-4channel-300-Watt-Amplifier.htm

Aside from the above, you'll need a basic amp kit. You should also strongly consider running new speaker wire throughout the car.

For reference, I am about to upgrade the system on the same car (07 non-nav); however, I am going with new component fronts powered by a bridged 4 channel amp with a separate amp powering a 10" sub in the back. The components are going to take care of the mids and highs while the sub provides the bass - no need for rear 6x9s. I know you said you didn't want a sub, but it's an alternative to think about.

Edit - Here's a link to an install a guy did on an '07 using similar speakers to the ones above: http://www.driveaccord.net/forums/showthread.php?t=27902
Under powering isn't bad but why spend close to 200 on an amp that does half the power the comps can handle?
 

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Antarctica i don't agree with your recommendations.

1. why would you not shoot down the idea of him wanting to amp the rear speakers and then run the fronts off the hu? ::headbash:
2. i do not understand the theory behind running a coax setup and then adding tweeters as if the imaging from the coaxials isn't bad enough.
3. how are you going to spend more on the rear speakers than the fronts? what holds the largest weight/importance when it comes to your overall sound?
4. that wiring kit is a piece of shit, it even says it in a roundabout way in the description :paranoid:
5. infinity speakers sound like trash and he hasn't described the sound that he likes anyway, i'm not sure how you can throw speakers at him without him telling anyone what he enjoys.
6. why is everyone so wrapped up in ratings not only RMS but max/peak?? my god it's so low on importance when it comes to the sound you achieve in the car. I had Focal Access components and what they are rated at 60W per side. oh my noes imagine that, only 60 per side!!! moral of the story, they were plenty loud.

:sigh: anyway, bobby have you every listened to any aftermarket components before?
 

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Antarctica i don't agree with your recommendations.

1. why would you not shoot down the idea of him wanting to amp the rear speakers and then run the fronts off the hu? ::headbash:
2. i do not understand the theory behind running a coax setup and then adding tweeters as if the imaging from the coaxials isn't bad enough.
3. how are you going to spend more on the rear speakers than the fronts? what holds the largest weight/importance when it comes to your overall sound?
4. that wiring kit is a piece of shit, it even says it in a roundabout way in the description :paranoid:
5. infinity speakers sound like trash and he hasn't described the sound that he likes anyway, i'm not sure how you can throw speakers at him without him telling anyone what he enjoys.
6. why is everyone so wrapped up in ratings not only RMS but max/peak?? my god it's so low on importance when it comes to the sound you achieve in the car. I had Focal Access components and what they are rated at 60W per side. oh my noes imagine that, only 60 per side!!! moral of the story, they were plenty loud.

:sigh: anyway, bobby have you every listened to any aftermarket components before?
1. I don't exactly understand your first question, but he said he's under a budget.
2. I remind you he's under a budget, and components are more expensive than coaxials. I have a decent knowledge about systems since my dad and best friend taught me everything I know about systems. If he had more money, he could get components instead.
3. Budget! Rear speakers of the same brand and series are generally going to be more expensive than the front ones. Did you notice I was recommending the JBL GTO series to him?
4. Um, my bad dude. I guess I better crawl on my knees to the Basilica of Our Lady of Guadalupe and pray that God forgives me for recommending a crappy amp kit. Give me a break dude. I just picked a wiring kit that was budget friendly.
5. Okay, I like my Infinity speakers, and they CAME WITH THE CAR, so I can't complain here. They're not my favorite brand, but they'll suffice for now. You're right he didn't describe the sound he likes, but from what I can gather, he just wants a louder, crisper sounding system.
6. Cool your jets. I was trying to tell him not to overpower his speakers and blow them! I know there's many other factors that come into achieving a better sound quality.

In my opinion, you're disrespecting him and me, and of course I'm going to retaliate with a smartass remark. I'm just trying to help him out, and you're just shutting him down instead. Now let's be nice to each other and put this behind us please.

bobbyroller: If you want your system to sound loud, make sure you check your sensitivity rating on your speakers. If you don't know anything about sensitivity or unsure about it, check this link out: http://www.remotecentral.com/cgi-bin/mboard/rc-theater/thread.cgi?463 The JBLs I recommended to you have a 92dB in the front and a 94dB in the back. The higher the sensitivity, the louder and more efficient the speaker will be.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
The music that I mainly listen to is Rap, and some classic rock. I as mush looking for sound system that sounds better, crisper that the factory install. I believe I am going to put the amp under the passengers seat so I can just run the wires through the console, for power, and front speakers, and run speaker wires from under the seat to the rear speakers.
 

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Antarctica i don't agree with your recommendations.

1. why would you not shoot down the idea of him wanting to amp the rear speakers and then run the fronts off the hu? ::headbash:
1. I don't exactly understand your first question, but he said he's under a budget.
He means when the OP asked about running the rear speakers off an amp and the front speakers off the head unit, you should have suggested he do the opposite. Power the front speakers off the amp and the rears off the head unit.

2. i do not understand the theory behind running a coax setup and then adding tweeters as if the imaging from the coaxials isn't bad enough.
2. I remind you he's under a budget, and components are more expensive than coaxials. I have a decent knowledge about systems since my dad and best friend taught me everything I know about systems. If he had more money, he could get components instead.
In my opinion, you don't really need tweeters if you're going to get coaxial speakers since they have built-in adjustable tweeters, but down the road if you want some, you can grab a pair of JBL P26t 1" tweeters for $89.99.
For the price of coaxs and tweeters he could just buy a set of components. If he forgoes replacing the rear speakers (which I, X, Paul, and others recommend) he could use that money towards buying a better set of components for the front.

3. how are you going to spend more on the rear speakers than the fronts? what holds the largest weight/importance when it comes to your overall sound?
3. Budget! Rear speakers of the same brand and series are generally going to be more expensive than the front ones. Did you notice I was recommending the JBL GTO series to him?
He could stay in budget by buying components for the front and leaving the rears stock, or by buying better coaxs for the front and cheaper coaxs for the rear. You want your best speakers in front of you, preferably components if you are running an amp anyways. Best imaging, staging, and overall sound quality.

OP: Since you're willing to install an amp, my opinion is to get a set of components for the front, leave the rears stock, get a 10" or 12" sub, and get a 4 channel amp. Run the components off 2 of the amp channels and bridge the other 2 to power the sub. A simple install that will sound worlds better than stock.

Once the system is installed try turning off the rear speakers by setting the fader all the way to the front. Sound will still come from behind you because it will be bouncing off the inside of the car, but it won't draw your attention to behind your head. Instead sounds that come from only the left or right will obviously come from the left or right in front of you, and sounds that come from both sides (ex. vocals) will sound like they are coming from the dash.

This setup will also leave you room to grow. If after listening to just front speakers for a while you decide you have to have rear speakers, you can upgrade the rear speakers later. If you want more power from them, you can disconnect the 4 channel amp from the sub and use the rear 2 channels to power the rear speakers and get a mono or 2 channel amp to power the sub. Once I stopped using rear speakers I never missed them. My rear seat passengers don't miss them either, as they get more natural, better sounding music from just the front speakers than they ever would from the rear speakers.
 

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Well you could do what he said, and also you could hook up your rear speakers to the amp as well lol. My buddy did that in his Mustang.
 

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Antarctica, you did make some shitty suggestions.

i know you meant well, but your suggestions weren't too great.

For a budget front stage, you will NOT do better than the phoenix gold rsd and the mb quart dsc 2150

shit, caraudiomag rated them top 10 best component speaker

http://caraudiomag.com/articles/top-10-speakers
Sorry dude. All these suggestions are opinion based. I guess the best thing to do is to let the op pick and choose and learn on his own. Everybody has different tastes in acoustics. Instead of shooting out brand names to him, maybe we could suggest different terminology and audio technology. I will suggest one thing... don't buy speakers from Walmart. I learned that the hard way lol. I remember one time I bought some Pioneer 6x9s from there, hooked them up in the parking lot, and as soon as I turned the stereo on, the speakers instablew! So I went back in and returned them for another pair, telling them they were defective out of the box lol.

Op, I wish you the best of luck. The best thing you can do before committing to an awesome system is to check your budget, see how much you're willing to spend on a system, do plenty of research (crutchfield.com has plenty of videos, tutorials, and reference pages on audio systems), and shop online (woofersetc.com is a great place to buy audio equipment for less) instead of paying a markup at an audio shop. That's all I can say really. Apparently according to everyone else, I'm shitty when it comes to sound systems. :dunno:
 
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