[mtts60]

As far as the battery goes, I think I'm going to let it sit for a few months and re-check the water whenever I put the battery cover on. I really think the parasitic draw was from that aftermarket XM radio receiver I removed.

The body plugs will wait for a dry week or two. I have a feeling Honda would not require them if they were worthless, so I'll get some and put them in someday. I work off of the theory that if <insert company here> thought the part in question was not needed, then it wouldn't be there in the first place. Honda builds hundreds of thousands of these each year and if they could save $20 per car by not including a particular part, they would. My guess is they exist for noise abatement on certain road surfaces.

Today was oil change day. Since I have the dealership service records the original owner had, that shows the last oil change was December 2021 and about 10,000 miles ago. So I thought today would be a good day to do it.

Under the engine I found a Valvoline oil filter so clearly the oil had been changed since then; no Honda dealer would install a non-Honda oil filter. Anyhow, the Valvoline filter is maybe 1/2" shorter than the Honda filter I put on. The oil that came out was black, black, black.

I had two unopened quarts of 5w-20 for my old Accord, plus 2.x quarts of 0w-20 Pennzoil, so I guess I have 2.5w-20 in there now.

 

[mtts60]

Car looks very nice when clean. Good Luck with it.

LOL! And thanks. I gave it a bath today, it really needed it, again.

Someday when the roads are truly dry I'll take it and the Nikon out for a photo shoot.

Note to those who are obsessive about their car's appearance - do not live in snow country.

 

[mtts60]

I learned me something today: the nut that's on the Honda oil filter cap wrench is the same size (17mm) as the oil drain bolt. That's smart engineering.

As I was cleaning up, I realized I had totally forgotten that I had an Oil Udder spill-free oil filter removal tool. I ordered it a few years ago with the intention of using it on the k24a8 in my old 7th gen, but that filter was at too much of a horizontal angle for it to be useful at all. This k24w1 engine's oil filter is nearly vertical, so it probably will work in the future.

I wasted $3.49 on kitty litter. Well, not really as I did need some today. But hopefully not in the future.

 

[WiiMaster]

Catching up on some posts. Finding a dealer maintained vehicle is definitely nice. Dealer maintenance is expensive, but the people who are willing to pay for it usually end up with nice vehicles due to the overmaintenance that dealers push. My Accord wasn't exclusively dealer maintained by any means but it definitely saw the dealer fairly regularly.

That's interesting about the body plugs. First I've ever heard of that. I usually agree with the idea of Honda intending for things to be there, though I do still leave some room for interpretation for items like the rotor screws.

so I guess I have 2.5w-20 in there now.

Hey, that's my line:

Transmission Service: DW-1 vs Valvoline Max Life

It's $25.92 at Walmart today. Last year when I stocked up they were $17.97. Build...Back...Better...

www.odyclub.com

 

[mtts60]

Well, today was kind of a sucky day. Started out ok though.

A few weeks ago I got a notice for jury duty that was to be today. There's a number to call the night before to see if you really have to come in. I got home about 7:30 last night, then called and found I didn't have to go. I didn't bother telling anyone. So, free day off from work since they had already planned on me not being in. All of us work from home; our van is our office.

(It's kind of like calling in sick when you really aren't (something I've never done), but I've been working 45-50 hours a week for the past 4 years, so I felt it was ok to have a few hours to myself.)

Ok, today would be a great day to install the auto-dimming mirror I ordered a few weeks ago. I ordered it because I needed something else for the car that was $10 and didn't want to pay $10 in shipping for a $10 part, so I ordered $300 worth of stuff to avoid a shipping charge. (No shipping charges on orders over $75. The mirror and it's wiring harness were the other $290. I would have ordered the mirror anyhow, so why not?)

I put it in this morning and about 2 hours later I was done. Except I lost one of the 4 screws holding the sunglass holder/map light thing. It is in the car somewhere but I can't find it. 20 minutes of looking and still nothing. Try finding a black screw in a car with a black interior.

I figured I probably should go to work since there was stuff to do, so I took one of those screws with me to hopefully find one like it. Autozone here in town had nothing, so I went 100 miles north to do today's jobs. I was only able to finish one of the three, the other 2 need parts, one of which I should have had with me but since the company can't keep parts on hand anymore, I have to get it from someone else and go back. I also checked out the Autozone there. Except by this time, that extra screw that was in my pocket is no longer there. The missing screw and the 2 incomplete jobs made it a somewhat sucky day.

I went to the Ace Hardware in that town (2x the size of my home town) and found some sheet metal screws that I thought would work. After getting home, I found that they did, much to my surprise. The mirror is in and working.

 

[mtts60]

Worked on the front brakes today.

See all that rust? There's more dirt than rust here. Montana cars rule.

One odd thing I noticed is that the disks have only 1 hole for the screws but the hub itself has two each. My 7th gen had two screws per disk. I did need the impact gun and my #2 or #3 JIS bit to get them out, but at 50 ft-lb max it's a pretty wimpy unit so they weren't in that bad. I did use anti-seize when I put them back in.

On the right side I could not remove the 12mm bolt holding the brake hose to the bracket. It just wasn't coming out. A breaker bar and a pipe only bent the bracket. The bracket's bolt came out just fine though. That's a problem for another day.

Pretty much everything was as expected for 96,000 miles. The pins moved and the pads weren't frozen to the caliper. They didn't fall out due to the anti-rattle spring they ride on. Regardless, I cleaned the pins and applied silicone grease, then filed the ears of the pads and cleaned the slots they go in. Each pad was at 4-5 mm except for the left inside one, which appeared slightly less.

Everything was reassembled dry. The manual says don't grease anything except the pins, and it looked like everything was assembled dry. The only place there may have been grease was between the inner pad and "shim A", which is between the pad and "shim B". Shim B is on the very inside edge of the assembly.

I found a leak in the right side boot. Cleaned the area with alcohol then applied some Shoe-Goo to it. I did a similar fix to a CR-V I had for a few months when the sawzall blade nicked a boot in the process of cutting off the bolts that held the end link (or anti-sway) bar in place. As far as I remember, that worked. So, I can't drive it until tomorrow.

 

[mtts60]

Did the rear brakes today. All 4 pins moved but I regreased them with silicone grease just like the front pins.

I had to do the bolts-in-the-hat trick to get one disk off; the other came off pretty easily.

All 4 pads needed the butt-end of my breaker bar to convince them that coming out of the calipers would be in their best interest. They moved, but not very easily. The pad spreader springs simply could not push anything on either wheel. They still had springiness in them once removed though. Notice the rust on the inner pad here; that's where the piston contacts the pad. The manual says to lube the piston face with brake fluid. Not having any, I was going to use the M-77 paste lube I have, but it is MIA at the moment. So, some anti-seize was used. (But I know I have that M-77 somewhere. Now that the need has passed, I'll find it tomorrow.)

Much filing and some work with this knd of paint/rust stripping disk got things to where they should be.

As with the front brakes, everything went back together dry. And also like the front brakes, a pad on one wheel was thinner than it's other pad.

The Shoe-Goo fix for my front axle CV joint boot leak appears to be holding.

Man, 18" aluminum rims with tires mounted are heavy!

 

[sequoiasoon]

Did you also use a bit of the anti-seize around the hub and hub bore on the hat as well as where the rim meets them?

Depending on the vehicle or just when I did it, the back of pads got either a bit of anti-sieze, caliper grease, disc brake quiet at the contact points of piston and where it sits at back of caliper.

Brake Judder - Delphi says not to use anything at some of the points except at the metal-metal contact points

 

[mtts60]

No anti-seize on the hub. The other disks came off pretty easily. I did use that rust-removing disk on both sides of the hats though, and on the hub rings (as much as that was possible). The rust on the ring was what was holding that one on the hub.

On the 7th gen I used a thin smear of M-77 on the back of the outer pads, between them and the shims. There may have been some present there on this car. I may go back to doing that. Everything else looked like it was assembled without grease, and the repair manual doesn't mention it either, except of course for the pins.

I think next time I'm going to buy a bench grinder from the local pawn shop and actually grind the pad ears, so I don't have to spend 20 minutes filing one.