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Getting ready to change brake fluid on the 2005 EX. I have Honda DOT3 ready to go. But before I started, wanted to know if there was any specific prcoedures to the Accord that I should know about. For example, is it just a straight bleeding procedure or does the ABS need to be messed with?

The factory service manual calls for the following sequence - driver front, passenger front, passenger rear, driver rear - which is different than I usually bleed.


Anyway, if there are any pointers specific to this car, please let me know.

Thanks,
Eric
 

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Getting ready to change brake fluid on the 2005 EX. I have Honda DOT3 ready to go. But before I started, wanted to know if there was any specific prcoedures to the Accord that I should know about. For example, is it just a straight bleeding procedure or does the ABS need to be messed with?

The factory service manual calls for the following sequence - driver front, passenger front, passenger rear, driver rear - which is different than I usually bleed.


Anyway, if there are any pointers specific to this car, please let me know.

Thanks,
Eric

this is what bing.com found http://www.dummies.com/how-to/content/how-to-bleed-your-brakes.html
 

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Nothing specific for the Accord, but I did notice that the first time I bled the rears, I needed a 10mm, deep well, 6 point socket to just crack loose the rear bleeder nipples. After that, I just used my 10mm, 6 point brake bleeder wrench (About $3 at Northern Tool or O'Reillys) to do the actual bleeding.

My own experience is that the rear brakes on my '05 Coupe, for whatever reason, seem to get more dirty than other cars. So I added brake cleaning/lube to my Spring maintenance "to do" list.
 

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1. Have a friend to help, have them sit in the car and listen to your instructions with the pedal.

2. ABS fluid is a separate system.

3. As Rick said, have a 6 point deep well to crack them loose if they've never been done before.
 

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My only advice is dont break off or strip a bleeder screw... Its not as hard as one may think if you're hamfisted and inexperienced. Ask me how I know...
 

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Sequence doesn't seem to matter. I've done it both longest to shortest, as is called for on every other vehicle in America, and Honda's way of shortest to longest. No difference as far as I can tell.
 

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Can this task be performed with the car on the ground and all tires still on the vehicle or do all tires need to be removed?
 

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Can this task be performed with the car on the ground and all tires still on the vehicle or do all tires need to be removed?
Remove the tires....

I have seen people leave the front wheels on, and simply turn the steering wheel all the way to the left to bleed the front left caliper, and then turn the steering all the way to the right to bleed the right front caliper. This turning will give you a few additional inches of room to loosen/tighten the bleeder nipple.

But the rear brakes? No way.

Theoretically, you "could" leave the wheels on and bleed the brakes, but you would need some specialized tools to do that, because you would not have the required room to maneuver a traditional bleeder wrench around to loosen/tighten the bleeder nipple. But I'm sure Snap-On sells some stubby bleeder wrenches for like $500 or something, lol.

It is a good idea to simply remove the wheels and clearly check everything in your brake system. Perhaps even remove, clean, and re-lubricate the slider pins and check other hardware.
 

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After you bleed, clean everything with brake cleaner or starting fluid. I caught a leak last time because I cleaned everything and saw some seepage before putting tires back on.
 

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My original bleeder screws were corroded, so I bought four new ones and put anti-seize on them to ensure easy maintenance in the future.

If you live anywhere where road salt is used, make sure you put caps over the bleeder screws.
 

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You don't even need a hose with a check valve.

Just have a regular hose already submerged in brake fluid in a glass jar, elevated higher than the bleeder screw. Air will never go back in.
 

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Yep, using drowned12 or t-rd's ideas...no excuse for.....

 

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You don't even need a hose with a check valve.

Just have a regular hose already submerged in brake fluid in a glass jar, elevated higher than the bleeder screw. Air will never go back in.
I've done this, but didn't have the jar elevated higher than the bleed screw. I also used a plastic water bottle with a hole punched through the cap for the hose to go through. Worked fine.

I've heard that gravity bleeding works well too, but am not brave enough to try it. Simply open all bleeders and let them drip, topping off fluid as needed.

For those changing pads but not bleeding, at least open the bleeder when compressing the caliper, that way the fluid in the caliper gets pushed out, rather than back up into the line. That is the fluid that has been heated up the most.
 

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You don't even need a hose with a check valve.

Just have a regular hose already submerged in brake fluid in a glass jar, elevated higher than the bleeder screw. Air will never go back in.
Air might not go back in but wouldn't the old brake fluid get suctioned back in after you let go of the depressed pedal? I tried a few ways and the cheap check valve hose was the simplest. Pump away without having to loosen and tightening the valve.
 

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I noted in my trip to O'Reiley yesterday that they sell bleeder valves with built in check-valves for easy one man bleeding.
 
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