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I've come to the conclusion that, in most cases, these spark plug problems come from the design of the intake cleaner hose cracking. Due to the asinine design of cramped space and harder to manage removal of the air intake box most attempts over the years will eventually cause hidden cracks within the ribbed portion of the hose. Non-metered and sometimes contaminated air gets right into the vacuum leak causing a foul ratio fuel/air mix that eventually loosen and damage the spark plugs and machined threads. The fact that you can still start and operate the vehicle with no real check engine light unless the problem is severe enough doesn't help as well.
 

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I've come to the conclusion that, in most cases, these spark plug problems come from the design of the intake cleaner hose cracking. Due to the asinine design of cramped space and harder to manage removal of the air intake box most attempts over the years will eventually cause hidden cracks within the ribbed portion of the hose. Non-metered and sometimes contaminated air gets right into the vacuum leak causing a foul ratio fuel/air mix that eventually loosen and damage the spark plugs and machined threads. The fact that you can still start and operate the vehicle with no real check engine light unless the problem is severe enough doesn't help as well.
It was from a bad casting when the engine block was made- not from unmetered air.
 

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So glad I came across this thread. Just checked my spark plug and it seemed snug
 

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It isn't just number 5. My '04 had the number 2 plug loose at 85k. It was just barely finger tight.

I have found this across all J series engines, any plug, most common are 2 and 5, also Fits, and Civics with R engines.

I've had Pilots melt the coils from combustion outside the cylinder, and one that the plug blew completely out, and hammered itself THROUGH the plug hole into the cylinder. Head, piston and cylinder destroyed. Honda good willed that one at 99k.

The S2000 had this issue years ago.

Plugs should be torqued to 24 ft-lbs now, the original torque is insufficient.
 

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Plugs should be torqued to 24 ft-lbs now, the original torque is insufficient.
Wow, that's quite a jump from 13 ft-lbs. I've gone with 15 ft-lbs both times I took them out, but nice to know I could easily go higher. I haven't noticed a loose plug yet, and I'm hesitant to go over 20 ft-lbs, for fear of stripping the threads in the head. Thanks for the information Fredsvt. If I do anything tomorrow (I'm so tired), this may be it.
 

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So do 7.5 gens have this problem? I checked the front 3 on my '07 last weekend and they all were fine. Plan on changing plugs next year when I do the timing belt.
 

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So do 7.5 gens have this problem? I checked the front 3 on my '07 last weekend and they all were fine. Plan on changing plugs next year when I do the timing belt.
Let me guess. Too busy or too lazy to bother reading the very first post in the thread you just posted in?

The answer, my friend, is blowin' in the wind.
 

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Lol
 

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Let me guess. Too busy or too lazy to bother reading the very first post in the thread you just posted in?

The answer, my friend, is blowin' in the wind.
My bad. I read the first post, and all the rest. Please forgive me for my enormous blunder, definitely public flogging worthy. Signatures don't appear on mobile btw, before you make anyone else feel welcome.
 

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When i changed my plugs earlier this year, i did notice carbon build up (like a orange, rust color in the spark plug cylinder) in the #5, whereas the others were fine without residue. I didn't get rough idle before or after i changed them out so i guess it's not big enough issue in my case. But since you had problems with the #5 i wonder if that cylinder thread is just bad to begin with...
 

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Add me to the list. @180k, second set of plugs (Changed at 105k)

My son was 50 miles out on a 200 mile trip, when suddenly the check engine light came on, and an obvious misfire. He was on the freeway, and I have instructed my kids to NEVER STOP ON THE FREEWAY if the car keeps going. Your life is waaay more valuable than that car. So ~12 miles to a rest stop he pulls off, calls me up, and off I go 'to the rescue' after a couple obvious fluid checks. I have this thread in my head on my way there, cringing the whole way.

Pull the coil on #5, looks burnt, and sure as 'excrement', that plug is 2 rounds loose. Tighten it up, same thing. Drove it a couple miles to the next exit (Not leaving it at a rest stop either) to a local farmer, and says no problem we can leave it there over night.

Next morning, after picking up a new plug, the trailer is in tow behind the Chevy in case that alone is not the fix. Put in the new plug, and upon startup, it was clear it was firing on all 6 at idle, but as soon as you hit the gas, there it was. Check engine, and the miss. So on the trailer she goes for the ride home.

After a little further diagnosis swapping coils once we got home (Clearly not firing on the other cylinder next to it) and close to an auto parts store where I know the guys, they give me the mechanics discount on EVERYTHING, a new coil solves it.

I feel I got lucky, the threads were still good, because it threw the check engine light before the plug was completely blown out of the head.

So just an updated reminder to all us V6'ers, check the plug #5, center front. I kinda feel dumb about it as I had a note on my desk for about the last month to do it, I just never did. DOH!
 

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Read this thread last night, got home and checked all my plugs in my 6-6-6. Some were a little loose. Torqued to 14.5 ft/lbs. Cylinder #5 definitely had some rust residue buildup more than the other cylinders on the coil pack. Why is this?
 

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Checked mine the other day when I changed the oil, still in there. It had worked it's way out over the summer and wrecked the coil. Since it is a known problem with these cars i am going to check it at each oil change. #6 was loose also but hadn't worked it's way out yet.
 

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Read through some of this thread, I've seen other forums where somebody blew out #5, I figured he had a manual trans and was into the Tokyo drift thing, I guess not. So I checked all six of mine, wanted to pull the plugs to make sure the spark plug tube seals I put in a few months ago were all good, and no oil in the tubes, all was good with the plugs but a couple were not much more than hand tight. All torqued down to 14lbs. Went and drove it around the neighborhood and all good, got home, walked into the garage and there is my DC Sports strut tower brace laying on the table........ DUH! I won't forget that again.
 
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I realize this is an old thread, but I just came upon it and had to vent.
We had a 2006 Pilot. At 34,700 miles, there was a loud ticking noise from the front of the engine. No CEL. I brought it to the dealership two days later. They said the #5 plug was loose and the escaping exhaust damaged the coil. I asked the tech and the service manager if this was unusual, especially since the plugs are to be changed at 100K miles.... Of course they said 'we have never seen this before'. New plug and coil replaced under warranty.
At 66K miles the #5 plug blows out and wastes the coil. CEL comes on. No ticking noise this time or any other warning signs. The same dealer takes a look and says the spark plug threads in the #5 cylinder are stripped and I'm looking at ~$3,000 for a new head. I bitch and moan how a similar issue occurred once before in the same cylinder and it is not a coincidence. The service manager said Honda would meet me half way and my portion would be $1,500 + tax. Still pissed, I decide to get the truck home. I wrap the threads of a new plug with aluminum tape in the dealer's lot. While I am doing this, a young tech comes up to me and says it is a known problem on V6 Accords, Pilots & Odysseys. And always the #5 cylinder. He was told there was an automated machine at the factory with three taps that tap the threads in cylinders 4, 5 & 6 at the same time. The tap for #5 was defective, but wasn't discovered until a huge quantity of heads were tapped and installed on engine blocks. I asked if there was anything in writing that confirmed this and he said with a laugh 'of course not'.
I limped the truck 2.6 miles back to my garage. My buddy with an auto repair business stops by and installs a time-sert in the #5 cylinder head, I install a new plug & coil and buy him a bottle of Johnnie Walker green label. It runs fine for the next 72K miles and I trade it in on a 2015.
 
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