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V6 6MT CBP
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Just checked my plugs after a 3 year hiatus in doing so. All six were tight. Still never a problem with #5. I'm not going to check them again.
I was just discussing this very thing with someone last night, need to check my kids when I see him next.
 

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one wheel drive
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837 Posts
I’m surprised no one else has mentioned an obvious symptom to loose plugs that I experienced. Raw fuel smell.

I recently swooped up an ‘04 with 203k (and very limited maint records) and ever since the test drive I noticed a gas smell from the vents while parked or driving slowly. Recirc didn’t smell. The car is very clean underneath and rust free so I was confident it would be a simple fix and not related to obnoxiously corroded parts and didn’t deter me from the sale. To make a long story longer, I was stumped that I only smelled it while the engine was running. And it was definitely gas and not exhaust. I could pressurize the fuel system all I wanted and didn’t smell a trace either from the vents or sniffing around under the hood. Cutting to the chase, I pulled the coils and upon examination I realized my car had been carrying corona virus in cylinders 3 and 5. And both of those plugs were backed out a half to full turn. Cyl #3 is closest to the hvac intake by the wipers so the vapors coming from around that coil we’re easily sucked in.

What I assume is that during the compression stroke, fresh air and raw fuel are pushed out of the plug hole before igniting. I bet exhaust was coming out too and getting in the cabin but the raw fuel overpowered it. I should have brought a CO detector out from the house but didn’t think of it. After torquing the plugs there is no more fuel smell. I don’t notice any immediate performance or noise differences but again the car is new to me so I’m still feeling it out.
 

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Annual spark plug #5 check today, after 12 months with Denso Iridium TT20 plugs. It was a couple ft-lb loose. Re-torqued. Took just 5 minutes, all good.
 

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one wheel drive
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Annual spark plug #5 check today, after 12 months with Denso Iridium TT20 plugs. It was a couple ft-lb loose. Re-torqued. Took just 5 minutes, all good.
Do you check them all? Or do you know your car well enough now to just do that one? I was really surprised to see my #3 loose also.
 

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I've been with this car for 13 years and I change my spark plugs every 30k miles using denso iridium power. I torque them all myself all the time. The only one ever gets loose is #5.
 

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one wheel drive
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837 Posts
Battle of the super mods! Back a page to post #84, FredSVT says revised plug torque should be 24 but you and the book says 13. I'm really curious too because 13 obviously isn't enough but where does 24 come from?
 

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I'd call Honda corporate and tell them about the problem and see if you can get them to pay for it. Since it's not far past the powertrain warranty and serious engine work shouldn't be needed at less than 70k miles. Tell them you purchased many hondas and are a loyal owner. If they can't pay the whole thing see if they will pay 50%. But my goal would be 100% coverage. Be nice yet firm.

If HC thinks you have a case they'll open a case file and communicate with the dealer. This has happened a few times with this engine and has been reported at least 3-4 times on here.

Check this thread out:

Sparkplug threads stripped in head.

Similiar:

bad spark plug hole

2005 Honda Accord LX 3.0L 6cyl coil
Great suggestion! Id go with this route first before paying anything.
 

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Banned
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14,431 Posts
Great suggestion! Id go with this route first before paying anything.
The 7th Gen consists of the 2003-2007 model years. They were sold 17.5 - 13.5 years ago.

Do you really believe Honda will pay for repairs to these engines in April of 2020?
 

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Thought of a Helicoil repair?
How to Repair Stripped Spark Plug Threads: Auto Clinic

Thought of a Time-Sert repair?
+ TIME-SERT® SPARK PLUG THREAD REPAIR KITS + spark plug stripped thread repair kits for spark plug problems, thread stripped spark plug repairs in damaged threads in spark plug hole stripped out approved thread repair, aluminum head spark plug repair

They coat the drill bit with grease so that aluminum chips don't fall into the cylinder.

I tried the Helicoil five years ago on a lawnmower engine just to try it out- works great. Never tried it on a car engine.

This can be a job for an independent shop....much cheaper than the dealer SHOULD the dealer refuse to help you. The dealer may only recommend replacement. An indy can swap in a used head for $800 or can even try a Helicoil repair or Time-Sert repair for a few hundred bucks.

BTW, THIS is why some mechanics suggest removing your spark plugs every couple of years and re-coating them with anti-seize.

in my past life i was a vw mechanic, the heads on vw engines were aluninum we had spark plugs come out similarly our fix was as stated [ without removing the head ] ream out the hole to correct size putting grease on the tool collects the shavings , then using the correct tap cut correct threads also using grease to collect the shavings , we used an insert oversize on the outside correct size for the plug on the inside before installing we blew out area we hadd just worked on to remove any particles the grease might not have caught , i personally have done many and never had a problem , fix back in thew 60's & 70's around $ 50.00 today ? under $ 300.00
 

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I would not torque that to 24 ft-lb, unless you are asking to helicoil the head yourself.

The truth of this problem, as I've been reading this for over 13 years, this problem spans to the old CL, TL, Honda Odyssey and other earlier J-series engine. Honda had a problem with a tap at a machining plant, but by the time they found out, it was too late. That #5 loose spark plug is caused by that tap that's off by just thousands of an inch.
 

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I would not torque that to 24 ft-lb, unless you are asking to helicoil the head yourself.

The truth of this problem, as I've been reading this for over 13 years, this problem spans to the old CL, TL, Honda Odyssey and other earlier J-series engine. Honda had a problem with a tap at a machining plant, but by the time they found out, it was too late. That #5 loose spark plug is caused by that tap that's off by just thousands of an inch.

if this is indeed the problem and can be documented then there needs to be a class action suit brought to hold Honda liable for repair of all vehicles made during this period , regardless of yr or miles on vehicles
 

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I had the same problem with my 5 spark plug @ 240K , I am the second owner purchased ODY at 195K, I got the flashing engine light after I hit a bunch of truck tire remains going 60MPH the engine started knocking, would not accelerate right . I got the codes forgot which ones flashed, I assume the previous owner changed out the sparks at 105K, I changed out all 6 spark plugs the front 3 all were great , the rear three 4,5,6, were less so 4 & 6 were slightly more worn than the front three, Number 5 was the culprit it had thick hardened deposits on it which probably cracked loose when I struck the object . I replaced all and the codes were gone and the engine ran normal, 30 Ks later on Valve cover gasket work on removal the 4-5-6 were once again more corroded than 1-2-3 , but number 5 was once again the worse, it had oil in the well , more carbon buildup , and it was loose. I cleaned up the rear 4-5-6 and swapped them to 1-2-3 . I torqued 5 down very tightly . But on a high mileage vehicle those gaskets harden , and spark plug seals harden , I had to use a flat head screwdriver and hammer to remove them from the valve cover. The rear sparks are easy to access so check them occasionally if concerned.
 

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I had the same problem with my 5 spark plug @ 240K , I am the second owner purchased ODY at 195K, I got the flashing engine light after I hit a bunch of truck tire remains going 60MPH the engine started knocking, would not accelerate right . I got the codes forgot which ones flashed, I assume the previous owner changed out the sparks at 105K, I changed out all 6 spark plugs the front 3 all were great , the rear three 4,5,6, were less so 4 & 6 were slightly more worn than the front three, Number 5 was the culprit it had thick hardened deposits on it which probably cracked loose when I struck the object . I replaced all and the codes were gone and the engine ran normal, 30 Ks later on Valve cover gasket work on removal the 4-5-6 were once again more corroded than 1-2-3 , but number 5 was once again the worse, it had oil in the well , more carbon buildup , and it was loose. I cleaned up the rear 4-5-6 and swapped them to 1-2-3 . I torqued 5 down very tightly . But on a high mileage vehicle those gaskets harden , and spark plug seals harden , I had to use a flat head screwdriver and hammer to remove them from the valve cover. The rear sparks are easy to access so check them occasionally if concerned.
Honda V6 engine cylinder numbering
123
456

Cylinder 4,5, and 6 are the front ones.
 

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Same thing happened to mine. #5 came loose and stripped the threads. I ended up taking the chance of inserting a helicoil since I already had over 230k miles on the vehicle. Its been solid since! No issues.
 

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Same thing happened to mine. #5 came loose and stripped the threads. I ended up taking the chance of inserting a helicoil since I already had over 230k miles on the vehicle. Its been solid since! No issues.
Yes mine runs solid but I made an error I put in some AT-205 a supposedly good stop leak additive , after about 150 miles the codes came a flashin ! Now I will have to replace an oil pressure switch. The 5 plug is notorious in VTEC land I check that plug every 15K inspect clean and reinstall. Also change out your Tranny fluid if dark red or burnt smell . I do the 3X every year .
 
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