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Discussion Starter #1
I have been using a short ram intake for over a year now and still love it...My car was just too sleepy (audibly) before the install and I really still enjoy it.

I recently removed my intake resonator to further free up some air as well...

I want to fabricate a piping install that will lead from the front bumper to the right of radiator directly to the SRI AEM cone to get more cold air up that way.

I'm also fabricating a better heat shield out of a rubbermaid 2560 waste bin- which I have seen done before.

Thinking something along the lines of flexible dryer vent tubing but if anyone has done this or may have a link- and has a few pointers- that would be cool to see!

I know the OEM was likely more powerful and even a cold air intake but it's just alotta fun with the SRI in there and I truly enjoy the sound, and it's still very peppy.
 

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Serious question: Why didn't you just delete the resonator and leave the stock airbox alone? You'd accomplish the same exact thing (more intake noise), but without the butchery and with far better filtered air (cone filters suck).

I did this with my car for the same reason, I wanted a little intake noise to make the car a little less boring. With the resonator deleted and the "snorkel mouth" from the factory inlet attached to the factory airbox, in the fenderwell facing forward, it gave the exact effect I was looking for without screwing up filtration efficiency or changing the metered air inlet.

I would bet that the car will perform better, live longer, and respond better to this route vs. whatever it is you're trying to reinvent. The factory intakes on our cars are very well designed and flow well from the factory, they just did too good of a job with noise cancellation.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Serious question: Why didn't you just delete the resonator and leave the stock airbox alone? You'd accomplish the same exact thing (more intake noise), but without the butchery and with far better filtered air (cone filters suck).

I did this with my car for the same reason, I wanted a little intake noise to make the car a little less boring. With the resonator deleted and the "snorkel mouth" from the factory inlet attached to the factory airbox, in the fenderwell facing forward, it gave the exact effect I was looking for without screwing up filtration efficiency or changing the metered air inlet.

I would bet that the car will perform better, live longer, and respond better to this route vs. whatever it is you're trying to reinvent. The factory intakes on our cars are very well designed and flow well from the factory, they just did too good of a job with noise cancellation.
Truthfully because I was not aware of the intake resonator removal prior to installing my short ram typhoon a couple years ago. I essentially wanted to give it some life (again- audibly) without a full exhaust so opted for the k&n typhoon. I then recently decided I wanted to remove the intake resonator so I could free up some airflow to the intake.

I am older and wiser these days- I do understand the filtration may be better on a stock system, and the air velocity on stock may be better, but I actually think so this recent removal of the resonator my car is faster than it has ever been and I find the torque has increased. Could be in my head but I'm always willing to admit if things are worse or better, and right now it's better. Fabricating some piping to get the SRI more air, and creating a new heat shield is a fun little project that gives me something fun to do. Looking forward to the results.
 

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If you're handy with fabrication, try and find a Comptech velocity stack for a TSX, it'll bolt right in and put the horn right behind the foglight opening.

Minor adjustments are required, but it will do what you're asking.
 

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I have to give you credit where it's due- your home-brewed airbox doesn't look half bad. I would be concerned with water or melted snow getting on top of the filter in some cases, but still, nice work.
 

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That is AMAZING. How did you make it? Send a picture of the trash can. I need to see where you cut it from.

Anyone considered this intake setup?


Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
I've been trying to find a proper pipe to fit to the Comptech upper lid, basically a Chinese tsx sri.

I think that would get the sound to my liking.
 

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I don't get it. You removed the airbox so you could put a better breather on it that you covered with an airbox and now the breather can no longer breathe.

BTW, you can't make a heat shield out of plastic. You made an airbox.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I don't get it. You removed the airbox so you could put a better breather on it that you covered with an airbox and now the breather can no longer breathe.

BTW, you can't make a heat shield out of plastic. You made an airbox.
To the right of the battery is a massive opening that the original piping went through. Air is flowing direct from the grill to the filter now, and this is keeping some of the engine bay heat out. It's all experimental for me but I have seen it done on other forums. I am going to put the pipe in to day, so Ideally, I am getting some high velocity air directly to the AEM cone. Maybe it's an airbox but don't you think it would be more difficult for the hot air to get to the cone? I think so.

I can also cover the shield in some heat resistant tape to further reduce heat soak.

We'll see man- Wouldn't have done this if the other forum didn't have luck with it.

I have to give you credit where it's due- your home-brewed airbox doesn't look half bad. I would be concerned with water or melted snow getting on top of the filter in some cases, but still, nice work.
Thanks, we will see how it goes. Will keep an eye on water residue next time it rains before turning on the car. I really need to install the pipe purchased from home depot to see if all of this is worthy of it's work.
 

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High Velocity Air? How do you figure?

The engine is only gonna breath what it's gonna breath. It's not like you're forcing "more air" into the engine cylinders. On top of that you have this big ole air filter that's gonna stop anything "high velocity" dead in it's tracks.

I guess I still don't get it. And what did these other forums luck come in the form of? I got rid of my AEM filter and put back the OEM air box cuz the AEM sounded horrible. There was no change in my car whatsoever.
 

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High Velocity Air? How do you figure?

The engine is only gonna breath what it's gonna breath. It's not like you're forcing "more air" into the engine cylinders. On top of that you have this big ole air filter that's gonna stop anything "high velocity" dead in it's tracks.

I guess I still don't get it. And what did these other forums luck come in the form of? I got rid of my AEM filter and put back the OEM air box cuz the AEM sounded horrible. There was no change in my car whatsoever.
Quick update. The air box definitely inhibited some breathing and made power worse lol. It really did seem like a great idea to avoid some heat soak and get air directly from the grill up to the AEM.

Since removing the intake resonator car has never been as great though- so current setup is awesome and the sound it just fantastic. Deep desireble sound at WOT. I am for sure still going to try putting a large "intake pipe" (which I have already purchased) from grill up to the intake to ideally get more cold air up that way.

Which SRI are you using??
k&n Typhoon- I sold the k&n cone oil filter and purchased a comprable AEM dry cone filter so I don't have to deal with the oils and all that nonsense. Really enjoy the setup.
 

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Quick update. The air box definitely inhibited some breathing and made power worse lol. It really did seem like a great idea to avoid some heat soak and get air directly from the grill up to the AEM.
Hey remember when I said:
Serious question: Why didn't you just delete the resonator and leave the stock airbox alone? You'd accomplish the same exact thing (more intake noise), but without the butchery and with far better filtered air (cone filters suck).

I would bet that the car will perform better, live longer, and respond better to this route vs. whatever it is you're trying to reinvent. The factory intakes on our cars are very well designed and flow well from the factory, they just did too good of a job with noise cancellation.
;)


I'd recommend some heat wrap for that conductive metal piping.
Why? All you're doing is adding more weight to an already over-thought thing. The factory parts are made out of composite materials for a reason: they're lightweight, they don't conduct heat, and they allow for compliance.

It's almost like the OE's know best...
 

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Why are you acting like it's a 750HP Drag car, where weight or airflow is a factor. The main reason I would change the intake is for the looks, and noise (pretty sure everyone else too). No one changes the intake for more power, because everyone knows it's an unfeelable 3hp at most. Same with the heat wrap. Gold heat tape makes somewhat of a difference, but the main reason I would use it is because of aesthetics. I'm planning on an eBay intake (not going to spend $200 for a pipe and a filter), and wrapping with gold heat tape. Not for a 3 hp gain or because it's lightweight, but the looks and noise.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
 

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Why are you acting like it's a 750HP Drag car, where weight or airflow is a factor. The main reason I would change the intake is for the looks, and noise (pretty sure everyone else too). No one changes the intake for more power, because everyone knows it's an unfeelable 3hp at most. Same with the heat wrap. Gold heat tape makes somewhat of a difference, but the main reason I would use it is because of aesthetics. I'm planning on an eBay intake (not going to spend $200 for a pipe and a filter), and wrapping with gold heat tape. Not for a 3 hp gain or because it's lightweight, but the looks and noise.

Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk
Nobody in their right mind on this forum would ever treat the advice given for a stock econobox Accord engine to a 750hp drag car. :dunno: However, the science behind both are exactly the same.

If all you want is noise, then delete the intake resonator and call it a day. The factory air box fits better, performs better, filters better, and looks better than anything I've ever seen anyone home brew, and I've been looking for over 15 years. While aftermarket intakes sure do sound siqq (bro), they're noisemakers, heat sinks, and money vacuums- nothing more. As long as you're buying up parts, most aftermarket suppliers will tell you anything to get you to buy their product.

Citing the "looks" thing: nobody is going to be impressed by a stock Accord engine bay with a piece of hardware from Home Depot with some gold foil tape wrinkled all over it in an attempt for "looks". We all went through the same phase of "i'M gOnNa MaKe An InTaKe FoR mY CaR & iT's GoNnA sOuNd SiCk" when we were younger and we (mostly) all learned from the err of our ways.

There's a very, very good reason why an OE intake tube and air filter box cost more than the aftermarket junk on eBay- because OE parts were designed and made by people who give a damn about quality, and matched it to the performance of the engine. If OE's could free up 5-10hp from an intake while not affecting anything else, don't you think they would have done that?
 
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