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Update: 366,600 this week. Still no issues.311,988 miles and going strong. Three clutch masters replaced though...
Update: 366,600 this week. Still no issues.311,988 miles and going strong. Three clutch masters replaced though...
Had the same thing happen. My mechanic insisted I needed a clutch. I resisted. Eventually I pulled the pedal (myself), found the crack and welded it up.I hit 174,000 miles on mine before it had to be replaced. Even then it still had another 15,000 miles left based on the technician's estimation. The clutch pedal itself had cracked so it was flexing and not fully disengaging making it difficult to get out of gear when stopped. The service advisor at the Honda dealership said he's never seen a clutch last more than 120,000 miles. After reading this thread it's clear that there are many other people who know the proper way to drive a manual and get a long life out of the clutch.
NO. Clutch fluid has nothing to do with clutch wear, except if one of the cylinders starts leaking, and air gets in the line, and then the pedal doesn't engage/disengage the clutch itself properly, from pressing on the fork. But you will experience shifting issues before you do any damage to the clutch itself.With clutch plate and face plate wear, will we see a drop in the clutch fluid reservoir similar to what we see for brake pad wear? The clutch fluid reservoir is tiny, and I've never seen the slightest decline in fluid level.
Thanks....................
Please tell me why fluid level and clutch wear are independent. Thanks.NO. Clutch fluid has nothing to do with clutch wear, except if one of the cylinders starts leaking, and air gets in the line, and then the pedal doesn't engage/disengage the clutch itself properly, from pressing on the fork. But you will experience shifting issues before you do any damage to the clutch itself.
The two are completely independent of each other in terms of wear.
Because unlike brake pads that wear, where there is a cylinder that moves and adjusts itself to be closer and closer to the rotor as the pads wear away, the fork on the clutch remains in the exact same place, regardless of wear on the clutch. The fork always goes back to the same point it started every time. The clutch master and slave cylinders push the rod at the end of the slave against the fork, which engages/disengages the clutch.Please tell me why fluid level and clutch wear are independent. Thanks.
Thanks,Because unlike brake pads that wear, where there is a cylinder that moves and adjusts itself to be closer and closer to the rotor as the pads wear away, the fork on the clutch remains in the exact same place, regardless of wear on the clutch. The fork always goes back to the same point it started every time. The clutch master and slave cylinders push the rod at the end of the slave against the fork, which engages/disengages the clutch.
The answer to your question is: No.Thanks,
I'm still puzzled. Does the pressure plate lifting end of the fork not re-position itself on the throw-out bearing as friction material wears on the clutch disc?
If the fork always returns to the same position, and friction material was worn down, then the clutch pedal would increase its initial "load" point, i.e., the load point would get closer to the floor.
I've not experienced a fluid drop nor a load point drop, which might simply mean that I've got nearly 100% of my original friction material thickness intact. But that seems unlikely to me.
Hopefully I never have to get into my clutch to find out!!
Thanks again.The answer to your question is: No.
Today's clutch material is sooo much better than it used to be. Back when I had a 77 Accord, there was a time when I needed to adjust the engagement point on the pedal because it had moved closer to the floor. (I have no idea how the car was driven before I got it with 130k) It was only a few thousand miles after that, pulling a snowmobile in a trailer, the tell tale sign of the clutch going started, the rpms would rise but my speed never changed in 5th gear. That was the last time I pulled anything with that car, and I never replaced the clutch.
When I had my '94 Prelude VTEC, I made many modifications the motor, keeping the stock clutch, and eventually the spring housings on the clutch wore out, essentially breaking out of their brackets. The clutch surface itself was still good. 90k later on an ACT Stage II Clutch, with MUCH stiffer springs, twice as many springs, and an obviously better design, I sold the car to a guy who asked how recently I had replaced the clutch. He was shocked to hear I had gone that far on it, as it still looked and measured very close to new specs (According to him, he parted it for his own needs apparently).
So, again, the two (clutch fluid and clutch surface) are independent of themselves, in terms of wear. Unlike brake pads and brake cylinders on the calipers.
It is very possible if you don't slip the clutch between shifts, and don't do a lot of hard launches, by letting the clutch slip at take off while letting the rpms climb above 2k, your clutch may last forever.
Thanks.I don't know where that self adjusting feature is, never heard of it. I don't find anything in my service manual that references that either, except for that one bullet you have pointed out. My service manual only talks about service limits and how to measure them.
My clutch engagement point went to the floor around 230k miles. At About 265k miles i discovered the clutch pedal was actually broken.... Was an easy fix with a good weld.I am at 179k miles on my I4 now. My clutch engagement point is super close to the floor. I am not sure if this is how it has always been or if it is something recent. I stopped driving it for about 2 months due to a injury.
Probably due to the check valve in the slave - I really have no idea why they implemented that. It makes shifting inconsistent because of the inconsistent engagement.Additionally, I never really got the hang of driving a manual transmission entirely smoothly on that particular car, as I found the six-speed transmission was extremely temperamental and cumbersome (seems to be a common issue with the 6-6 model). With all of that being said, the only issue I ever experienced was a failure with the salve cylinder, and that occurred only a few months before I sold the car.
I think the check valve was definitely the problem. I owned that car for six years, and I never was able to shift into second gear smoothly. I almost considered getting an automatic for a while because I figured that I just was never going to get the hang of driving manual transmission while I had that car. I realized that it wasn't my fault after I test drove my 5 speed Accord for the first time.Probably due to the check valve in the slave - I really have no idea why they implemented that. It makes shifting inconsistent because of the inconsistent engagement.
For anyone coming to this thread, here is the "how to" for removing it.
https://www.driveaccord.net/forums/...x-6spd-clutch-delay-valve-device-removed.html
Hi Rick,WOW! That has to be some kind of record....