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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all, newbie here. Just got the 2013 honda accord ex-l and was quite disappointed in the audio so i am looking to upgrade.

Here is what i have bought with a couple different options

Option 1:
Polk audio db6501 font
Polk audio db651 rear
Rockford fosgate pbr300x4
Audiocontrol lc6i
DB Link PK4Z 4 Gauge Power Series Amplifier Installation Kit
GTMAT


Option 2
Polk audio db6501 font
Polk audio db651 rear
Polk audio da5000.5 amp
Alpine swr823d freeair sub
Audiocontrol lc6i
DB Link PK4Z 4 Gauge Power Series Amplifier Installation Kit
GTMAT

I started with just installing the component db6501 in the doors (i only did the passenger side) ran to HU only and i could barely hear anything...they almost sounded like laptop speakers or headphones that were turned up way loud. I hooked into the door speaker and ran via harness to the crossover and from crossover ran to tweeter and door. Did i do something wrong? Why did it sound like crap?

So i am going to place the lc6i and amp in the trunk somewhere and run from there.

Here is my plan for install:

Run power from battery into the grommet by dead pedal and down drivers side into the trunk to the amp/lc6i

Run 8 16 gauge speaker wires up the passenger side 4 to drivers door and 4 to passenger door. Once there i will connect 2 wires via harness to stock door speaker hookup and 2 wires to crossover and run tweeter and door speaker from crossover. The 8 wires will connect to amp speaker outputs and lc6i inputs

I will run 8 wires to rear 4 left 4 right which will run back to amp/lc6i

I will run remote ground from fuse box drivers side via add a fuse, down passenger side

I will connect ground to bare metal in trunk (suggestions welcomed

Which amp do you recommend? If i do polk amp then i will run the swr-823d sub freeair in the deck, i saw someone do this and it looked nice.

If i do the rockford fosgate then i will do the front and rear speakers only

Do i need power and ground to the lc6i? If so can i just use a distribution block and split the power from the battery?

What exactly does the lc6i do? Would i be better off just using a line converter for $40?

Sorry for all the questions, i just dont want to mess up a new car with 28 miles on it

Thanks
Heath
 

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It would have been easier to purchase component speakers up front only(like MB Quart) with lower power requirements so that you could run off the head unit only. I would just leave the stock rears as filler and just have an Alpine Monoblock amp (with built-in LOC) to control an Alpine free air sub. This would have been the easier set-up IMO.
 

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That setup wouldn't sound bad, but whats your budget?

It would have been easier to purchase component speakers up front only(like MB Quart) with lower power requirements so that you could run off the head unit only. I would just leave the stock rears as filler and just have an Alpine Monoblock amp (with built-in LOC) to control an Alpine free air sub. This would have been the easier set-up IMO.
That wouldn't sound nearly as nice though. IMHO, if you are already spending the time to replace the door speakers, amplify them.
 

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I have basically what you got right now in ny 8th gen....highly recommend you amp ur rears along with the front. Rear fill helps a lot! if u don't amp the back and just let the headunit power them ur wasting ur money on those rear speakers. Headunit doesn't bring those speakers to life.
 
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