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Before I go on about my current car, let me first of all say hello and I've been around the block with these cars. I have had eleven 5th generations and two 4th generations. Mind you, I'm only 21, and I only wrecked one (not my fault). With that being said, I finally got my hands on a 1992 Accord Wagon! Ha, I've wanted one for years but everyone must be out of their damn mind asking $3,000+ for ones with well over 200,000 miles. So anyways, I just bought one for $550! Has 150,000 original miles. Already fixed some minor things like door locks, hatch, throttle position sensor, yada yada. BUT I bought it knowing that the transmission was on it's way out. Well after driving it some, I noticed the D4 light intermittently coming on, while in park. Couldn't pull codes from the TCM, but I opened it up and found a burnt resistor and a leaking capacitor. Have the replacements on order. The transmission is essentially just a little sluggish on acceleration from a stop and the reverse does not work. Sounds like grinding almost. I'm assuming it will need rebuilt, BUT I want to see if repairing the TCM will fix the acceleration issue. Doubt it will address the reverse, but here comes the major question... Has anyone rebuilt a transmission on these? Could I open it up and maybe just repair the reverse shift pin or fork? (I'm used to working on Chryslers). Or has anyone else had the same problem and had someone tell them exactly what it was? Thanks in advance guys.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Just rebuilt the FITV and IAC, pulled off that busted roof rack. Much more smooth idle, but I feel like the "shaking" that I feel is from the transmission being bad. Anyone have any input about the transmission yet? I'll keep everything I do updated on here. Lots coming on this car. Pictures will be coming once I get settled a little as I am in the midst of finishing moving in.

On a side note, does anyone know if you can get the roof trim that goes from the front to the rear without the cut outs for the roof rack? I am having trouble finding it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Anyone know exactly how I can remove the egr without a cel? I know to use a block off plate and cap the manifold ports, but how can I not come up with a code 12?
 
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