[Huneyv6]

Hey all, I could really use some help with my issue please. I have an 09 honda accord v6. Prior to this situation I checked my battery and they showed me its good.

2 months ago I noticed my battery light flicker. Didn't stay on long but long enough for me to notice and did so for some days. After about 3days I needed to change the belt on my pulley anyway so I asked the mechanic about the battery light and he told me I need a new tension pulley all together?
I have no problems starting my car but I asked him what about the alternator he said its good. Got a second opinion about the pulley and was told it's fine. And checked the cords to the battery. Battery light still flickers on and off randomly.

2weeks later driving my car everything went wrong. Not accelerating in the speed it normally would after stopping at a light. Like a short or glitch, delayed, kind of feeling. Very unsettling. Battery light came on and stayed on this time. I pulled over to turn it off and try reboot. And it didn't come back on. Couldn't even hold a charge.

To wrap this story up i got towed to the nearest mechanic shop which was a pepboys. They tell me the battery was drained and dead because the alternator wasn't charging it.
Paid for the work of a new alternator and battery. Just to leave the shop and the battery light to still flicker on and off within 2 blocks of driving off the lot. Car still running but the light still came on after all that so im assuming the issue is still the issue. Took it back to them and nobody knows shit to actually fix the problem..

Somebody with information or experienced this please help me!!

 

[WiiMaster]

Make sure the VCM spool valve isn't leaking onto the alternator, which will kill any alternator in short order and is probably the most common cause of alternator failure on this gen. Common issue with age on these engines. And I would recommend an OE (Denso) alternator, not some aftermarket crap alternator.

 

[Silverthorn]

I would expect you would need to be leaving puddles of oil on the road for an oil leak to kill a brand new alternator and battery in two blocks. I would also assume that even the worst mechanic would see the massive oil leak and at least mention it if not fix it. If your belt is slipping you would normally hear/ see it happening when there is high load on the electrical circuit and also very unlikely to kill the system in two blocks. It's kind of interesting that no check engine light lit.

How long did the car sit at the mechanic before you picked it up?

If it sat for a number of hours before you picked it up I'd eliminate a parasitic drain as the starting point. I doubt that it's the problem because usually they result in a dead battery after the car has sat not a loss of power while driving but it's easy to test and should be checked first. They often start slowly and worsen over time.

To do a test disconnect your battery terminals (Positive first) and put the battery on a charger until fully charged. You could also swap in a fully charged battery from another car but make sure your car is off for about half an hour before you test so that all the latent systems have gone to sleep. Once fully charged reconnect your positive terminal only and leave the key in the lock position. Connect a multimeter in line with the negative terminal and check how many Amps are being drawn. If you see more than about 60 milliamps start pulling the fuses from the under hood fuse box one at a time until you find where the power is leaking to.

If you find a leak start disconnecting components from that circuit until you find the culprit.

If you don't find a leak the next thing to check is the regulator for the charging circuit to make sure you have a regulated 13.5v coming out of the alternator. With the car running at around 2500 rpm and with everything electrical like lights and radio turned on check the voltage at the battery. It should be around 13.5 V. Then disconnect the four pin alternator plug and check between pin with the White and Green wire on the alternator plug to the negative pole of the battery. If you see more than a volt you possibly have a problem with the voltage regulator.

I'd be careful doing any further testing without the correct equipment because you can damage the ECM/PCM and basically brick your car if you do it wrong. You need an Auto Electrician for this not a Mechanic.

 

[Huneyv6]

Make sure the VCM spool valve isn't leaking onto the alternator, which will kill any alternator in short order and is probably the most common cause of alternator failure on this gen. Common issue with age on these engines. And I would recommend an OE (Denso) alternator, not some aftermarket crap alternator.

Thank you so much I'll see if I can check the VCM myself or get it checked out. As far as the alternator, I went to pepboys and they put a "reman alternator" in PO#10674270

I would expect you would need to be leaving puddles of oil on the road for an oil leak to kill a brand new alternator and battery in two blocks. I would also assume that even the worst mechanic would see the massive oil leak and at least mention it if not fix it. If your belt is slipping you would normally hear/ see it happening when there is high load on the electrical circuit and also very unlikely to kill the system in two blocks. It's kind of interesting that no check engine light lit.

How long did the car sit at the mechanic before you picked it up?

If it sat for a number of hours before you picked it up I'd eliminate a parasitic drain as the starting point. I doubt that it's the problem because usually they result in a dead battery after the car has sat not a loss of power while driving but it's easy to test and should be checked first. They often start slowly and worsen over time.

To do a test disconnect your battery terminals (Positive first) and put the battery on a charger until fully charged. You could also swap in a fully charged battery from another car but make sure your car is off for about half an hour before you test so that all the latent systems have gone to sleep. Once fully charged reconnect your positive terminal only and leave the key in the lock position. Connect a multimeter in line with the negative terminal and check how many Amps are being drawn. If you see more than about 60 milliamps start pulling the fuses from the under hood fuse box one at a time until you find where the power is leaking to.

If you find a leak start disconnecting components from that circuit until you find the culprit.

If you don't find a leak the next thing to check is the regulator for the charging circuit to make sure you have a regulated 13.5v coming out of the alternator. With the car running at around 2500 rpm and with everything electrical like lights and radio turned on check the voltage at the battery. It should be around 13.5 V. Then disconnect the four pin alternator plug and check between the White and Green wire on the alternator plug to the negative pole of the battery. If you see more than a volt you possibly have a problem with the voltage regulator.

I'd be careful doing any further testing without the correct equipment because you can damage the ECM/PCM and basically brick your car if you do it wrong. You need an Auto Electrician for this not a Mechanic.

Thank you so much for your feedback. Sorry for the misunderstanding but the car didn't stop running within 2 blocks. It was still on and running but the same battery light flickered on off, which is how the car ended up not starting. I didn't have the car at the shop for long at all just overnight and picked up in the morning. I definitely feel I need a shop with the correct testing equipment because this is definitely something electrical that is being overlooked but causing more problems with the running of my car

 

[WiiMaster]

Yeah, you don't want a chain shop like Pep Boys to be doing this. It sounds like you were already given a poor quality aftermarket alternator, which certainly wouldn't help.

 

[Silverthorn]

Thank you so much for your feedback. Sorry for the misunderstanding but the car didn't stop running within 2 blocks. It was still on and running but the same battery light flickered on off, which is how the car ended up not starting. I didn't have the car at the shop for long at all just overnight and picked up in the morning. I definitely feel I need a shop with the correct testing equipment because this is definitely something electrical that is being overlooked but causing more problems with the running of my car

Overnight is a long time for a Parasitic Leak. Start there. But yes. An Auto Electrician not a Mechanic.

Thank you so much I'll see if I can check the VCM myself or get it checked out. As far as the alternator, I went to pepboys and they put a "reman alternator" in PO#10674270

If the spool valve is leaking you would physically see it running into the alternator.

Yeah, you don't want a chain shop like Pep Boys to be doing this. It sounds like you were already given a poor quality aftermarket alternator, which certainly wouldn't help.

If the alternator was the problem he would be throwing a Check Engine with a P0562 DTC. I seriously doubt it has anything to do with the alternator.

Actually thinking it through I can't think of a single system that will parasitically drop voltage while you are driving from a drain. I may be missing something but this is one of the cases where "I don't know" is the right response. There is not enough information with what you are able to provide. Guessing is the best anyone can do here and Guessing is an expensive way to fix things. It's already cost you a battery and alternator that probably didn't need replacing. I am still guessing you have got a regulator problem in the charging system but it's only a guess and like I said without the proper equipment you put the ECM/PCM at risk by even testing it.

Bypass all this and get your car to an Auto Electrician.

 

[Huneyv6]

Actually thinking it through I can't think of a single system that will parasitically drop voltage while you are driving from a drain. I may be missing something but this is one of the cases where "I don't know" is the right response. There is not enough information with what you are able to provide. I am still guessing you have got a regulator problem in the charging system but it's only a guess and like I said without the proper equipment you put the ECM/PCM at risk by even testing it.

Bypass all this and get your car to an Auto Electrician.

I appreciate the honestly. It is driving me crazy because I don't trust my car 100% right now with this issue. Someone mentioned to me replacing the Electronic Load Detector (ELD). Does that sound like a possible thing too?

 

[Silverthorn]

I appreciate the honestly. It is driving me crazy because I don't trust my car 100% right now with this issue. Someone mentioned to me replacing the Electronic Load Detector (ELD). Does that sound like a possible thing too?

I GUESS it could be. Mate you can start randomly replacing components until you get it right but you're going to end up with a lot of spares afterwards that did not need replacing. An Auto Electrician will have a Battery, Regulator and Charging System tester that will safely identify the problem immediately and you don't have to replace every component.

Did you at least get your old battery and alternator to keep as spares?

 

[Huneyv6]

I gotta get this fixed asap. Smh unfortunately I didn't get to keep my old parts but they did run the starter test and alternator test and said both were fine. Taking it into a shop asap

 

[Silverthorn]

Starter alternator and battery can all be fine and there still be a problem with the regulator. That's why I keep guessing that's your problem. Auto Electrician for Electrical problems. Mechanic for Mechanical problems. Internet Forums for DIY problems. This is not a DIY problem unless you have the correct equipment and know how to use it.

 

[visionguru]

....
To wrap this story up i got towed to the nearest mechanic shop which was a pepboys. They tell me the battery was drained and dead because the alternator wasn't charging it.
Paid for the work of a new alternator and battery. Just to leave the shop and the battery light to still flicker on and off within 2 blocks of driving off the lot. Car still running but the light still came on after all that so im assuming the issue is still the issue. Took it back to them and nobody knows shit to actually fix the problem..

Somebody with information or experienced this please help me!!

Battery light flickering = alternator problem. Most of such problems are due to worn alternator brushes (a less than $10 part, and very easy to replace). At 180K mile mark, the alternator brushes will be on last legs.

Your first mechanic replaced the belt and tensioner unnecessarily.

Unless Pepboys didn't connect the alternator securely, you've got a bad alternator. No need to try to take the matter into your own hands. Go back to Pepboys. For problems like this, they normally have 1 year parts and labor warranty. Insisting on another alternator (free parts/labor, of course). Most likely, another alternator will solve the problem.

 

[Silverthorn]

Battery light flickering = Charging system problem. There's more to the charging system than just the Alternator.

 

[Yal]

I think the original mechanic got it right the first time. Tensioner pulley. I take it you walked away and didnt get that done right? Did I read that correctly?
Anyway I'm with others on here, get it to an Auto Electrician pronto or at the very least someone that can use a professional level scan tool and knows what they are doing. NOT Pep Boys or similar
Do this before you increase the damage $$$

 

[visionguru]

There's more to the charging system than just the Alternator?

Seriously, let me know what are the "more" of the charging system? Alternator is directly connected to the battery.

I think the original mechanic got it right the first time. Tensioner pulley. I take it you walked away and didnt get that done right? Did I read that correctly?
Anyway I'm with others on here, get it to an Auto Electrician pronto or at the very least someone that can use a professional level scan tool and knows what they are doing. NOT Pep Boys or similar
Do this before you increase the damage $$$

Care to explain why "tensioner pulley" has anything to do with the problem? It doesn't even affect belt tension.
"Auto Electrician"? Never heard of such profession. Here in the US, any 1/2 competent mechanic will be able to diagnose and repair alternator, starter problems.

 

[greg1c]

Has this thread gone off the rails.

1. The voltage regulator is built into the alternator. It is the device that turns on the charge light in the instrument cluster.
2. Alternator's need a stable 12v to work (from battery).
3. The serpentine belt is easily checked, it has a wear indicator built in to the tensioner. In general if the wear indicator is good so is the belt, but do a physical examination of the belt looking for cracking and missing sections.
4. The V6 is infamous for leaking oil into the alternator. That is a very common problem.
5. The main issue with most electrical problems are loose and coroded connections at the battery. The second place to look is at the battery ground to the body. The third place to look is engine to body grounds. All connections need to be clean and tight and protected from future corrosion.
6. The ELD controls the rate of charge on the alternator, be sure to check output with the headlights on. You should be seeing in excess it 14.2v in high mode. The alternator has a low mode and it may be as low as 12.2v and be working as designed.
7. Almost all aftermarket alternators are junk, rebuild your OEM alternator or get a Denso replacement. Another option get a used OEM alternator. Big box store alternators are no good, all are cheap knockoffs. Lifetime warranty is a joke.


I hope this helps.


Sent from my Pixel 5 using Tapatalk

 

[scar_cle]

4. The V6 is infamous for leaking oil into the alternator. That is a very common problem.

^^ Same thing happened to mine. This is where my money is. Something is up with your alternator.
Spool valve "Seeping" not leaking onto your alternator. Youll just keep replacing the alternators if you dont fix this 1st.

 

[Huneyv6]

Oh man so much possibilities.. appreciate all feedback. The first mechanic also told me something about spark plugs and a PCV Valve. Is the pcv valve and spool the same thing?

 

[WiiMaster]

No, that's a separate thing. The spool valve is located right above the alternator, by the oil dipstick.

 

[milliejmae]

Check fuses if no oil leak as others have said. The Honda's have electronic Load Detectors. It;s located in the under hood fuse box.

 

[Scorpio8]

Hey all, I could really use some help with my issue please. I have an 09 honda accord v6. Prior to this situation I checked my battery and they showed me its good.

2 months ago I noticed my battery light flicker. Didn't stay on long but long enough for me to notice and did so for some days. After about 3days I needed to change the belt on my pulley anyway so I asked the mechanic about the battery light and he told me I need a new tension pulley all together?
I have no problems starting my car but I asked him what about the alternator he said its good. Got a second opinion about the pulley and was told it's fine. And checked the cords to the battery. Battery light still flickers on and off randomly.

2weeks later driving my car everything went wrong. Not accelerating in the speed it normally would after stopping at a light. Like a short or glitch, delayed, kind of feeling. Very unsettling. Battery light came on and stayed on this time. I pulled over to turn it off and try reboot. And it didn't come back on. Couldn't even hold a charge.

To wrap this story up i got towed to the nearest mechanic shop which was a pepboys. They tell me the battery was drained and dead because the alternator wasn't charging it.
Paid for the work of a new alternator and battery. Just to leave the shop and the battery light to still flicker on and off within 2 blocks of driving off the lot. Car still running but the light still came on after all that so im assuming the issue is still the issue. Took it back to them and nobody knows shit to actually fix the problem..

Somebody with information or experienced this please help me!!

Some of the Pepboys' shops were (are?) notorious for hustling customers. I know from experience. How old was your battery? Did you check the alternator voltage output with a meter initially? Do you ever clean the battery terminals & cables? Were the cables tight originally? How good is the ground of the negative battery cable? Digital multimeters can be had for under $100 these days. Just pop one in the glove compartment & when needed to check battery voltage & alternator voltage output - touch the probes of the meter (set to VDC) to the battery cables when the car is off, & start the car & check it again while it's running to see alternator voltage output (13.5-14.5V on average). Unfortunately some mechanics are out to make a quick buck & will scam you anyway they can & it is sometimes hard to prove without good evidence. A reason to learn as much about cars as you can, at least the basics.