I like the Honda pads because they don't squeal. I can wash the dust off when I wash the car, but the squeal just gets worse. If you get pads that don't wear as much, the rotors will wear quicker. It's a compromise.
I got 90k miles out of my brakes and they are starting to squeal a little bit in the front. Should I replace the rear at the same time? Should I go to Auto Zone or get better brakes from somewhere else? Please provide me some help on this subject. Links and pictures approved!
I agree. I have high carbon rotors with ceramic pads and love the snot out of them. Loving my R1 brakes. Stoptech and R1 get there rotors from the same place over seas. Im not sure if cryo rotors are harder than high carbon steel rotors but if so go with them. The harder the steel in the rotor with a ceramic pad will equal great brakes with no warping of the rotor. Ceramic pads are quiet and have little to no dust. But they also dont let heat into the caliper as much so with hard driving they can put more heat into the rotor. I have been hammering on my high carbon rotors and they are good.
I'll probably be doing the same thing soon, but not sure on what pads I want. Dust is not a concern for me but I do want them to bite better than OEM and be more resistant to heat. Got pics of the final product? I've always liked the looks of slotted/drilled rotors
My .02...I love these "what's the best brakes?? " threads...as the sky's limit with brakes, but...
I didn't go bananas with my 7 gen either, but I put high carbon e-coated rotors with ceramic pads on both front and back...I'd go with Wagner QS series again, if it were my choice.
Your choice of rotors and pads is pretty much what I did, minus the slots, I just didn't feel I needed them, so I passed.
I'm not the fastest guy on the road but I do about 75-80, routinely, a "spirited driver"(as Tire Rack defines it)and this change from OEM has less brake fade and, I'd estimate about 15%-20% shorter stopping time if I had to put a number on it.
How much mileage is on the car? how old are the rotors and pads?
The bigger question: are you doing this yourself??
If the rotors are original they've probably got glazing, which, now it's easier just to replace them, and cost is the same as "resurfacing"... I went with full ceramic and high carbon rotors, but that's your call.
It's not a heat issue, so forget about drilled/slotted rotors, I say.
Re-bedding won't help, IMO, once they're glazed over, it's done. Stick a fork in them.
So, I bought a '14 EX-L with about 58K miles on it about two and a half weeks ago, and overall, the car has been great.
One owner, who traded it in to the dealership, where he originally bought it.
The dealership put about $2000 into the car in service, including two new tires...which brings up...
I was replacing the front wheel bearings on my 14 accord exl when I noticed I tore the ball joint dust boot when taking the steering knuckle off the lower control arm. It’s not a big tear but I’d rather replace it now while I have it apart. The ball joint is in good shape so I don’t really...
I'm riding on stock 215/55R17, 7.5" width, and +55 offset. I recently purchased a wheel/tire combo of 225/55R17, 8" rim width, and +38 offset. I'm concerned about rub. Attached are the driver's side with the new rim/tire and passenger on stock. I've searched and can't find anything with this...
Wheels can have a huge impact on the overall look and performance of your ride, but with all the options to choose from, it can be tough to narrow down the selection.
Check out our wheel configurator and visualize that perfect set of wheels!
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So I had a shop install my TEIN SA yesterday and everything looks good but at around 20-26 mph I get a slight vibration/shake on my steering wheel. I checked if the lug nuts were torqued down and they were. I also adjusted the dampening to TEIN's recommendation and that seemed to help a little...