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Hey everyone! I just bought myself a pre owned 2011 5at coupe about 3 weeks ago. So far I cannot complain about this car and it’s by far the best car I’ve owned. It is also the first v6 but for some reason it feels pretty lacking for a v6 especially on the low end. I’ve been browsing these forums and I found a couple helpful things to wake up v6 a little. Not looking to push this car to its limits I just want something a little peppier so i can actually feel the v6.
so far on the list:
-high flow precats
-Rv6 J pipe
-S-vcm
-Obviously better suspension and stickier tires
-better intake
Is there anything else I’m missing that would be worth doing? Or is this stuff worth doing at all? I know since it’s an automatic my options are very limited but really I’m just looking for some good bolt ons to increase low end power nothing too aggressive i dont want it to be a racecar and I don’t want to compromise the reliability too much.
 

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Ktuner. If you want to maximize the performance of all those mods, you'll need to tune the car.
 

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You'll have to make up for VTEC. the 5AT V6 coupe doesn't have VTEC, which is why it feels so down on power. The 6-6 is the only 8th gen V6 to have VTEC.
 

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You'll have to make up for VTEC. the 5AT V6 coupe doesn't have VTEC, which is why it feels so down on power. The 6-6 is the only 8th gen V6 to have VTEC.
The original poster who made the topic owns a coupe. Not a sedan..

I know you own a sedan, so thats your experience, but hes not asking about the sedan.
The sedan is roughly a whole second slower than the coupe in 0-60 times. V6 AT 8th gen.

I generously test drove a 8th gen 6MT coupe at the dealership (mainly just for entertainment) when I bought my AT. Its not a noticeable difference. Certainly switching gears every shift is going to deliver a different feel for the driver when getting from point A to point B as opposed to simply pressing a pedal...your body is telling you its different but for overall speed I believe its a .2 second difference in 0-60 times for AT vs MT V6 COUPE

....but the V6 coupe has plenty of get up n go with really just a j-pipe 3rd cat delete & the vcm delete. Its quick. Pull you back in your seat. Ain't a Type-R obv..but it deff aint a civic either.
Obviously get yourself an aftermarket muffler (dont need catback, 2.5in is better than 3 for these cars). A decent set of tires & you'll have plenty of low end torque.
The factory double wishbone suspension added to couple basic mods make it like a DART to drive.
Perhaps decent set of coilovers and then upgrade your back n front sway bars...you'll have one of the best handling cars under 100 grand youve ever imagined. Handles like a finely tuned instrument.
Ive worked at a large luxury car dealership...driven many types of cars. Bentleys to BMW to Porsche. This car feels amazing to drive. The coupe. My mother bought a brand new 8th gen sedan shortly after it came out in '08....lets just say, that was totaled. I drove it back then.. and it felt NOTHING like my 8th gen coupes. I'm on my second AT V6 8th gen coupe.



Cold air intake or ram air intake...will help performance as well.
I would stick with 18in wheel size & only buy an aftermarket wheel if they are same weight or lighter.
If you want MAX performace. Otherwise, do what looks best to you.
 

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TBH I've not been in the drivers seat for any other generation of Accord. Not even for a second. So 8th gen is my only experience. i4 and V6, AT and MT.
Thats as far as my knowledge goes. Dont ask me about other gens.
 

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The original poster who made the topic owns a coupe. Not a sedan..

I know you own a sedan, so thats your experience, but hes not asking about the sedan.
The sedan is roughly a whole second slower than the coupe in 0-60 times. V6 AT 8th gen.

I generously test drove a 8th gen 6MT coupe at the dealership (mainly just for entertainment) when I bought my AT. Its not a noticeable difference. Certainly switching gears every shift is going to deliver a different feel for the driver when getting from point A to point B as opposed to simply pressing a pedal...your body is telling you its different but for overall speed I believe its a .2 second difference in 0-60 times for AT vs MT V6 COUPE

....but the V6 coupe has plenty of get up n go with really just a j-pipe 3rd cat delete & the vcm delete. Its quick. Pull you back in your seat. Ain't a Type-R obv..but it deff aint a civic either.
Obviously get yourself an aftermarket muffler (dont need catback, 2.5in is better than 3 for these cars). A decent set of tires & you'll have plenty of low end torque.
The factory double wishbone suspension added to couple basic mods make it like a DART to drive.
Perhaps decent set of coilovers and then upgrade your back n front sway bars...you'll have one of the best handling cars under 100 grand youve ever imagined. Handles like a finely tuned instrument.
Ive worked at a large luxury car dealership...driven many types of cars. Bentleys to BMW to Porsche. This car feels amazing to drive. The coupe. My mother bought a brand new 8th gen sedan shortly after it came out in '08....lets just say, that was totaled. I drove it back then.. and it felt NOTHING like my 8th gen coupes. I'm on my second AT V6 8th gen coupe.



Cold air intake or ram air intake...will help performance as well.
I would stick with 18in wheel size & only buy an aftermarket wheel if they are same weight or lighter.
If you want MAX performace. Otherwise, do what looks best to you.
Don't get how this affects what I posted. What I posted still stands. OP's V6 does not have VTEC and that is why he is even feeling that the V6 is down on power.
 

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Well he also is on all stock cats. Doesnt have a j-pipe/3rd cat delete and still has VCM activated.... so yea, he needs to take off the factory restrictions, then decide if he wants to turbo it eventually perhaps?

I've simply yet to ever hear anyone say they arent satisfied with their 8th gen V6 coupe AT engine performance after they did the basic bolt ons, unless they're looking for a 3-4 second car. Thats all I was saying.
And also just was saying youre basing your opinion on the sedan model.

Eventually I too will most likely get a Type-R in the coming years but I'll still keep my coupe around.
 

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And also just was saying youre basing your opinion on the sedan model.
What opinion? I am stating the fact that the engine does not have VTEC. The opinion I am referencing is OP's opinion that it feels down on power.
 

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When will the mods stop.... or will they?
2008 Honda accord Coupe 6 speed manual
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If you want low end. Get a manifold spacer. That made a huge difference on my car in the low end, but it compromised some top end power for sure. Depends on what you are really after.

J pipe, is probably the best mod. PCD is a stupid mod if you have not really doing a lot of other mods. I did PCD and I have the RE tune my car because it destroyed my low end. PCD will not give you more low end.

I'd go with a ported manifold, use a P2R manifold spacer (anything larger will make the manifold scrape the hood) better intake, send your throttle body to Maxbore and have it made bigger with a bigger throttle plate.

PCD are also no longer available guys, not sure if you are aware but RV6 had the hammer come down on him so the only way you'll find a pair is off a car used. I'd go with the HFPC, those are still for sale IIRC.

And yes a real tune will yield you the most TQ. I gained 30wtq when I did a dyno tune with all my (almost all of my power mods now) mods and it was incredible the difference.
 

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Wait I thought it did have vtec? It says it on the engine and i can feel it kick in at the higher RPMs.
It says i-VTEC for intelligent VTEC because it's VTEC style technology used to engage VCM. But if you think about how VCM works, it is impossible for the engine to have both VCM and VTEC at the same time.

VTEC has two cam profiles, and by default the rockers are unlocked, allowing each of the valves to ride on the lower profile on the outer camshaft lobes. Then, when VTEC engages, the rockers for the valves get locked to the center roller arm which rides on the higher camshaft profile. This forces the rockers to follow the higher cam profile, which is VTEC.

VCM in many ways is simply opposite VTEC. On VCM engines, the valve rockers are locked to the center roller arm by default (i.e: when VCM is not engaged) because the camshaft only has one valve profile and it is in the center. When VCM is engaged, the valve rockers are unlocked from the center roller arm so they follow the outer lobes of the camshaft. On VCM engines, the outer lobes of the camshafts are blank, there is no cam profile, meaning the valves do not open, which is what engages VCM.

There is no VTEC on VCM engines.
 

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Wait I thought it did have vtec? It says it on the engine and i can feel it kick in at the higher RPMs.

Put the RV6 J-Pipe on...then come back and talk.

Its like taking the training wheels off.
Its night and day.


You've never owned one of these 8th gen v6 coupes before? You cant possibly have any idea where you want to go or how to start if you dont get the most basic and most impactful (dollar for dollar & ease of installation) upgrade done first....

Do that. Then come back.

You'll thank me.
 
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