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Hi My father is wondering what rust proofing would be best for his 2010 Crosstour? We heard good stuff about Metropolitan rust proofing but we are still unsure which is best.
 

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Hi My father is wondering what rust proofing would be best for his 2010 Crosstour? We heard good stuff about Metropolitan rust proofing but we are still unsure which is best.
I once had a new truck that was rust proofed with Ziebart, 5 yrs. later you could still smell the chemical every time you got into it.
 

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Since youre up in Canada, definitely go to Krown Rust Control.

Canadian Tire offers a service with Rust Stop 3009, but IMO tge Krown franchises do a better and more complete job.

Another option is DIY with Krown (you can buy gallons from Carwell in NY that is the same product, or aerosol cans from Krown direct), or try fluid film.
 

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You mean cars are still rust proofed?
I thought that requirement ended years ago due to much better metal prep and coating from the OEMs.

When I lived in Omaha, many moons ago, I had a 1995 Accord and it developed a small spot of rust where an accident repair was made in the drivers quarter panel wheel well. The rest of the car had no rust at all and it only had the OEM undercoating.
 

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Krown. Application does matter as stated.

Have owned two vehicles over the last 28 years. Rust proofed both after the first 5 years, and only every second year after that. Live in Ottawa, Ontario where there is a HEAVY application of salt and have not had any rust on either vehicle. Extends life of brake lines and many other components also.
 

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Don't believe Krown is in the US. I paid about $130 plus tax. Once you get the vehicle rust proofed, the amount paid remains constant throughout your ownership of the car.
 

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Dealer (Honda) applied rust proofing was quoted to me at $1,000 (permanent). I negotiated that down to $699. I've had this on 2 prior cars and do not see rust for 10+ years - despite Montreal region having more salt than snow on the roads (so it seems).

They proposed an electronic widget that would apply a constant current to the car to prevent rust. (Similar to that used in bridge bases). I looked into this and (where cars are concerned) it is not a good solution at all. Honda also wanted $1000 for that - for a $200 (tops) widget....

Annual rust proofing (such as Metropolitan) has an annual cost and a certain downer in waiting time. A lot of people get it done in the fall, but really can be done anytime. $98.99 / year (plus tax). This does involve drilling various holes in the car the first time around. (I assume the "permanent" rustproofing needs holes drilled too....)
 

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Hi My father is wondering what rust proofing would be best for his 2010 Crosstour? We heard good stuff about Metropolitan rust proofing but we are still unsure which is best.
The best rust proofing might be more frequent under carriage wash during winter. Those after market rust proofing service often requires drilling holes, ironically could allow moisture/salt get in. I doubt those thin-ish fluid spray would last long or effective at all.

My 07V6 has been a Illinois/Michigan car. We have plenty of salt on the road. When I examined the underside (while spraying a can of Fluid film at various places) last fall, I was surprised to see how little rust (except exposed metal parts such as control arms/rotors) it has comparing with the cars I owned at similar age from the past.


Those after market rust proofing service might be indeed a waste of money:
https://www.web2carz.com/autos/everything-else/6628/why-do-cars-no-longer-need-aftermarket-rustproofing
 

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The best rust proofing might be more frequent under carriage wash during winter. Those after market rust proofing service often requires drilling holes, ironically could allow moisture/salt get in. I doubt those thin-ish fluid spray would last long or effective at all.

My 07V6 has been a Illinois/Michigan car. We have plenty of salt on the road. When I examined the underside (while spraying a can of Fluid film at various places) last fall, I was surprised to see how little rust (except exposed metal parts such as control arms/rotors) it has comparing with the cars I owned at similar age from the past.


Those after market rust proofing service might be indeed a waste of money:
https://www.web2carz.com/autos/everything-else/6628/why-do-cars-no-longer-need-aftermarket-rustproofing
The holes are capped.

The fluid is 'waxy' so that it sticks in place. Applied hot (ish) it gets into nooks and crannies pretty good. When it cools it stays there. Over the years these companies keep the R&D going to continuously improve the stuff. So not only a "barrier" to chemicals but chemicals that neutralize as well.

It's not a waste of money - at least here.

I've done this on other cars for at least a few years before giving up. I know people who are fanatical about it and get it done every early fall. And drive their cars looooong past the fresh date. 20 years with little to no rust in the case of one of my former employees.

This is Montreal where salt on the roads is near endemic.

Car Wash? Yes, another ritual in the late spring is to drive through the car wash twice with the underside option maxed out.

Pro tip [1]: get dark coloured cars, not white or pale. This way the sun heating the body helps evaporate moisture inside panels.

[1]: Okay, not a pro. But a pretty strong opinion.
 

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Dealer (Honda) applied rust proofing was quoted to me at $1,000 (permanent). I negotiated that down to $699. I've had this on 2 prior cars and do not see rust for 10+ years - despite Montreal region having more salt than snow on the roads (so it seems).

They proposed an electronic widget that would apply a constant current to the car to prevent rust. (Similar to that used in bridge bases). I looked into this and (where cars are concerned) it is not a good solution at all. Honda also wanted $1000 for that - for a $200 (tops) widget....

Annual rust proofing (such as Metropolitan) has an annual cost and a certain downer in waiting time. A lot of people get it done in the fall, but really can be done anytime. $98.99 / year (plus tax). This does involve drilling various holes in the car the first time around. (I assume the "permanent" rustproofing needs holes drilled too....)
You have to be careful with dealer's coating option.

You have to do it to a brand new car on a dry day. Otherwise, you risk trapping the moisture with the metal parts with the coating and that will eat through your car faster.

For used cars, annual rustproofing oil is the only option.

Sent via MHA-L29. Whatever.
 
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