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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2013 Accord EX-L. I had a shop install an Alpine PDX-5 (surrounds only) and a MB Quart 1000.1 at 2ohms, for a total of approx 1150watts. There is only a very slight headlight dimming, and only when the bass is super deep. I read that the Big 3 Upgrade was always recommended (majority consensus), but I had some Honda Accord specific questions for anyone who has done the Big 3 Upgrade. Thanks for the information!

1) Did you change the ground mount point? If so, to where?

2) Did you use OFC cable, or is 0/1 ga of CCA good enough (huge price difference)?

3) Should I install a fuse on the alternator power wire? If so, what amperage?

4) Stock Battery: Did you just use a ring terminals, or did you replace terminal caps?

5) Stock Battery: Did you encounter any install issues?

6) If you did replace the battery, why? Was it beneficial?


**Note: Big 3 Upgrade is factory battery ground wire, alternator ground wire and alternator power wire.
 

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Ballin' on a budget
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First off, I kept the original positive cable from alternator to fuse box, fuse box to battery, and battery to starter and added a new 4-guage run from alternator to battery and 0-guage upgrades for the two ground straps.

I have a 2013 Accord EX-L. I had a shop install an Alpine PDX-5 (surrounds only) and a MB Quart 1000.1 at 2ohms, for a total of approx 1150watts. There is only a very slight headlight dimming, and only when the bass is super deep. I read that the Big 3 Upgrade was always recommended (majority consensus), but I had some Honda Accord specific questions for anyone who has done the Big 3 Upgrade. Thanks for the information!

1) Did you change the ground mount point? If so, to where?

No, I just cleaned and re-sanded the ground points.

2) Did you use OFC cable, or is 0/1 ga of CCA good enough (huge price difference)?

I used pure copper cable because I had access to it from a local car audio shop.

3) Should I install a fuse on the alternator power wire? If so, what amperage?

Yes, normally size the fuse based on your cable, but since the stock system only puts out 100 A, I just put a 100 A fuse on the cable going from alternator to the battery.

4) Stock Battery: Did you just use a ring terminals, or did you replace terminal caps?

I bought some after market rungs that have two bolt locations on them for ring terminals and replaced the stock wiring ends with ring terminals.

5) Stock Battery: Did you encounter any install issues?

No install issues for me, but I'm use to this kind of stuff. I should note on my 7th gen, I had a slightly more difficult time adding a second run from the alternator to the battery since the bolt on the alternator is rather short and in a tight spot ion the i4 engine.

6) If you did replace the battery, why? Was it beneficial?

I added a second battery to the trunk using a 0-gauge run from front to back, and a 0-gauge ground to the chasis.


**Note: Big 3 Upgrade is factory battery ground wire, alternator ground wire and alternator power wire.
 

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**Note: Big 3 Upgrade is factory battery ground wire, alternator ground wire and alternator power wire.
Funny you should post this question, I was planning on doing the Big 3 tonight.

The alternator is grounded to the engine it's bolted to which is in turn grounded to the chassis. On the 8G at least (and sounds like 7G), the engine is grounded to the chassis in at least 2 places.

Also, ^^'s 7G uses a wimpier alternator than the 8G and 9G. 7G was 110A I think, 8G was 130A, 9G is probably even higher to account for the added electronics. I would fuse it at 150A or 200A.
 

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In reply to CCA I have used both and can say for sure I prefer the OFC. CCA will run hotter and is much bigger and way lighter than OFC. Knukonceptz 4ga OFC can handle 150 amps of current .
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
This is the kit I was looking at: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74886_XS-Power-BIG3XP.html.

It says rated up to 250amp. It is a CCA kit at 0/1ga. They also have a OFC kit at 0/1ga rated up to 350amp, but it is twice the price. My total audio system is only 140amp, so I will do the CCA kit unless someone completely disagees.

Thoughts?
 

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Ballin' on a budget
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This is the kit I was looking at: http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_74886_XS-Power-BIG3XP.html.

It says rated up to 250amp. It is a CCA kit at 0/1ga. They also have a OFC kit at 0/1ga rated up to 350amp, but it is twice the price. My total audio system is only 140amp, so I will do the CCA kit unless someone completely disagees.

Thoughts?
Solder all your connections and cover them in di-electric grease. The big debate between cable types comes in to play on 10+ ft runs where you can start to get voltage drops.
 

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CCA is probably fine, but as a EE I wouldn't put the stuff on my car. It's higher resistance which in addition to voltage drop it will also run hotter. When it runs hotter the resistance goes up so you get even more voltage drop and more heat. "Rated to 250A" probably means "the wire @ 250A will be 90 degrees C".
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Does anyone know what the stock wire gauge and type is for a 2013 4cly?
 

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Car so nice, bought twice
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The chassis-battery ground connection on mine looks like 4awg.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I made a 0/1 wire with soldered ends for the negative battery ground and installed it. I bought a 300amp fuse for the battery to alternator but have not installed that wire yet.

Had anyone replace the engine ground wire on a 2013 or 2014 with the I-4 engine? How did you get to the ground bolt? It is deep down and hard to reach!

Also, how did you attach the wire to the alternator? How did you modify the stock boot cover? Please post a photo if you can.
 

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i have a 2014 accord LX 4 door sedan. i am not able to pop out rear speaker grills using a flat head screw drivers. does anyone knows how to open the grills..
:dunno:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·

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Alright, I want to see some pics! I plan to do mine when it is not 0 degrees.when I did my 2007 accord I grounded to the strut tower. Also I used the alternator mounting bolt as the engine ground.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I ordered a 5 way battery terminal, but they sent me the wrong one. It was enough to redo the stock wiring and my 2 amps, and since they didn't want it returned, I went ahead and installed it. I will still install the bigger terminal when I get it in the mail.

So far I have redone the battery negative ground wire with 0 ga OFC welding wire, wrapped in tech flex, and attached at the factory ground point (paint removed). Here are a few photos. I will complete the battery to alternator and chassis ground in a few days and then post the photos.





 

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**Note: Big 3 Upgrade is factory battery ground wire, alternator ground wire and alternator power wire.
Man, being new to custom car audio, I had been wondering for weeks what the "Big 3" was. Thank you, OP!
 

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Nice looking job!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Updated Photos

I finished the Power-Alternator wire, and installed the correct 5 hole battery terminal. I still need to make and install the chassis-ground wire. What do you think?









 

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I ordered a 5 way battery terminal, but they sent me the wrong one. It was enough to redo the stock wiring and my 2 amps, and since they didn't want it returned, I went ahead and installed it. I will still install the bigger terminal when I get it in the mail.
Can you provide a link to the bigger 5 way terminal?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·

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Man, I wish i knew about that 5 way terminal. Anyways, I swapped out my stock group 51 flooded battery to a group 35 AGM battery and have no power issues. It's running a 2 Ga pure copper wire to a 4 channel amp and a 900 watt monoblock. The install was real simple but seeing that the stock batt was smaller I had to find a bigger hold down to secure it. The batteries are the weakest point in any system IMO. Grounding the system is the second seeing that they only use a weak 4 Ga wire to the body.
 
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