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· Mod it or don't drive it
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The following is a list of items which I recommend for completion of the big 3 upgrade, and some helpful hints for those looking to perform this mod. For a more comprehensive video on how to perform the mod itself, see caraudio 101 big 3 on youtube.
I recommend going with oxygen free copper (OTC) 0/1 gauge wiring. Do not settle for cheap copper clad aluminum (CCA)

Kicker
Stinger
Knu Konceptz
Tractorysupply

all these places carry OTC wiring.

Things you will need:

4 ft of red OTC 0/1 gauge cable (I recommend Knu Kolossus Kable from amazon)
5 ft of black OTC 0/1 gauge cable
2 black 0/1 guage ring terminals and 1 red ring terminal like the ones seen here.
2 black ring terminals with a bigger diameter than the seen above. For these bigger ones, I recommend the Scosche seen here

Crimping tool as seen here


Another option is to solder to the terminals. Search "How to Solder battery terminals" for a good video on this.

If running 0/1 wire back to your amplifiers, you will need a battery terminal that has 4 inputs, of which 2 slots accept 0/1 gague, and of which 2 accept 4 gauge, as the stock wiring leading to the positive battery terminal consists of 2 separate lines of 4 guage.

As always when working with electrical, disconnect the terminals from the battery before doing anything.

Connection points

Block to chassis: I used this connection point on the block as seen here:


From the block, secure it at the strut bolt as seen here AFTER removing the paint around the bolt. Sand it down to bare metal to ensure a good ground connection point.



The other line from the strut bolt goes to the battery:





You will need to cut the factory wire on the + battery terminal, which will leave you with 2 separate 4 guage lines to insert into the new battery terminal. You can't see them in the pic here, but they are in-between the 2 red wires. I DO NOT recommend going with the Rockford terminal, as it only accepts 0/1 and 8 gauge and you will have to trim down the factory 4 gauge to fit this terminal. I will be purchasing the correct battery terminal that accepts 4x0/1-4 inputs, and will extend the factory 4 gauge wiring by soldering on an extra 6in of 4 gauge wire to it, which will make for a better connection point.



From the terminal, run the wire to the alternator. You will need to trim the terminal so that it fits on the alternator bolt as seen here:





Secure the power cable to the fan using a zip tie to keep it out of the way.
 

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Can you take a few photos at a wider angle? I want to see how you ran the chasis ground, the power wire around the engine bay, etc. Did you leave the factory chasis ground in place? Also, how did you modify the alternator bolt cover to accept the 2nd wire?
 

· Mod it or don't drive it
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Can you take a few photos at a wider angle? I want to see how you ran the chasis ground, the power wire around the engine bay, etc. Did you leave the factory chasis ground in place? Also, how did you modify the alternator bolt cover to accept the 2nd wire?
The chassis ground is at the strut tower to the engine. I cut the bottom of the bolt cover so that the 2nd wire would fit. Main power wire leading to amps comes from passenger side through a hole I made and ran along firewall. All factory wires are left in place. Better to have the cable as short as possible than to worry about a clean engine bay with wires only being ran along the engine bay walls.
 

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The chassis ground is at the strut tower to the engine. I cut the bottom of the bolt cover so that the 2nd wire would fit. Main power wire leading to amps comes from passenger side through a hole I made and ran along firewall. All factory wires are left in place. Better to have the cable as short as possible than to worry about a clean engine bay with wires only being ran along the engine bay walls.
What differences did you notice afterwards?
 

· Mod it or don't drive it
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did the big 3 before installing the system so I couldn't tell you. I figured with as much watts as I'm pushing, (1450 + HIDs) I would need to do the big 3 at a minimum. Still need to check my current draw.


Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 

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One of the best modifications that a person can do to help fortified their stock electrical system. Doing the Big 3 can eliminate a lot of the dimming and voltage drop issues, which many people tend band-aid the problem by buying capacitors. Do the Big 3, call it a day. Nice write-up man.
 

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Would there be any benefit to just do the grounds?
Meaning if there are any benefits of this mod without doing the positive line from the alternator to the battery? No, it'll be better if you actually complete the electrical loop. It's like breathing in through a small straw, but exhaling through an open mouth. You'd want a good even flow.
 

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My issue is the positive battery terminal. There are 2 X 4ga wires stock, plus I have 2 x 4ga amp wires connected to the terminal. I also want to add a 1/0 ga wire for the big upgrade. I cannot find an aftermarket battery terminal with 5 outputs of 0/4/4/4/4.

How many ring terminals can I safely connect to the battery terminal screw down bolt? Right now I have the 2 x 4ga wires. If I add the 0/1 wire, will that cause any issues?
 

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If running 0/1 wire back to your amplifiers, you will need a battery terminal that has 4 inputs, of which 2 slots accept 0/1 gague, and of which 2 accept 4 gauge, as the stock wiring leading to the positive battery terminal consists of 2 separate lines of 4 guage.
Did you end up getting a different battery terminal?
 

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has anyone tried using voltage stabalizers like the raizin or similar. Im curious if problems with over draw can be solved with a 65 dollar ebay box that helps other issues also...thats what i hear but im skeptical
 

· 2013 Sport
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One thing this how-to doesn't discuss is the fuse sizes. Shouldn't it be recommended to fuse the positive cable between the alternator and the battery? Can anyone recommend a fuse size for this cable?
 

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· Mod it or don't drive it
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1,061 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
do you have a better picture of where you ran the wire to the engine block?
No as I couldn't get my iphone in there but it's on one of the factory bolts on the engine. One thing to take note of is that the diameter connectors need to be the right size depending on which bolt. The strut bolt is bigger than the rest and there are 2 sizes for 0 gauge connectors.
 

· Mod it or don't drive it
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
There won't be enough slack. I barely had enough without the use of ring terminals. You may need to solder an additional length of 4 awg wire onto the existing factory wire and it's going to be difficult to do that with a torch inside the engine bay.
 
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