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Not a n00b!
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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

i just changed the psgr side caliper and bleed the brakes. they still feel spongy. Does the parking brake need to be on when i bleed them?


Thanks,

PS... do you think i need to bleed both sides or just the caliper that i changed/


Thanx,
 

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Registered
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just a thought, did you bleed the brakes in the right order? the abs system is sensitive to how the brakes are bled
 

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Mike
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Hi All,
i just changed the psgr side caliper and bleed the brakes. they still feel spongy. Does the parking brake need to be on when i bleed them?

Thanx,
Parking brake should be off.

I would bleed both sides, if fluid over 3 years old then bleed all to replace old fluid.
 

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Not a n00b!
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Discussion Starter #4
just a thought, did you bleed the brakes in the right order? the abs system is sensitive to how the brakes are bled
Um... and what would that order be?


Thanx
 

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BRWNFLSH now
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Front Left, Front Right, Rear Right, Rear Left.
Not exactly, according to this illustration (below) left rear comes before right rear. I don't think it makes much difference either way. With ABS in cars now the brake lines don't go straight from the master cylinder to the wheels anymore.
 

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Mike
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Interesting as the Honda workshop manual has rear left last. If you were doing it in symmetry with the above diagram then RR would be before RL, however as you say it’s not a big deal although even with ABS the FL and RR are on the same Master cylinder and ABS pump circuit and the FR and RL are on the other.
 

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Not a n00b!
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Discussion Starter #8
That's very interesting. I'm not vacuum bleeding, i'm just pumping the pedal. Should i just take in in and have the fluid changed or buy a vacuum bleeder?


Can i still get away with the three pumps and hold, loosen off the bleeder?


does all this really need to be done when changing one caliper?


Thanks,
 

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Super Moderator
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The old fashion way still works, I just flushed out my brake fluid, no issues at all.

What you should do is to repeat the pump/hold/open bleed valve/close bleed valve/release pedal cycle several time.

You only need to bleed that one corner if you haven't let too much fluid flow out.
 

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Not a n00b!
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Discussion Starter #11
The old fashion way still works, I just flushed out my brake fluid, no issues at all.

What you should do is to repeat the pump/hold/open bleed valve/close bleed valve/release pedal cycle several time.

You only need to bleed that one corner if you haven't let too much fluid flow out.
Yep, been doing that. Guess the psgr side rear is the longest run, cause i've got about 250ml of black fluid out and it's still not clear yet... Guess i'll go out and buy a liter or two next weekend and flush out the entire system.


Thanks guys...
 

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Mike
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As others have said, the old fashioned way works well. There is however a very low cost device called a VIZIBLEED from europat – there will be others as well. These consist of a clear plastic tube with a one way valve at one end and a section that fits the bleed nipple at the other. Just makes it easy to do the bleeding on your own.

1. Place the tube over the bleed nipple
2. Loosen bleed nipple half a turn
3. Depress brake pedal a few times to expel old fluid and air
4. Check tube is free from air bubbles and fluid is clean before tightening nipple

Of course as always never allow the fluid level in the master cylinder to drop to far. There is also an automatic brake fluid dispenser which enables you to top up the brake fluid reservoir without checking but I have never used this?
 

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I was searching for these one-way valves (also called check-valves) until someone pointed out that the loosened bleeder screw may allow air to be drawn back through the threads........, which makes sense, so I decided to just use the old fashioned way.

BTW, google "speed bleeder" and you will come across fancy bleed screws with built-in spring and check-valve, but again they have an issue of air being drawn through the thread or leakage through the threads unless sealant is placed on the threads every so many cycles of use. I did contact these guys for Accords application, but they never got back to me, so I didn't follow up with them.
 

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Mike
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Never had an issue with this in using them for 10 years on other cars. I would thik fluid would be forced out of the thread on the downward pressure stroke and this does not happen on my various cars so far. I would think that the fluid around the long thread seals it enough on the short intake stroke to not allow this to happen. Interesting never the less and something to be aware of if loosing the thread to much.
 

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Mike
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I was searching for these one-way valves (also called check-valves) until someone pointed out that the loosened bleeder screw may allow air to be drawn back through the threads........, which makes sense, so I decided to just use the old fashioned way.
Aviorgraphy, I decided to talk to my Honda contact and he advises me that some of the Honda models have very short bleed screws and may not only draw air but pump fluid easily past the thread against the bleed valve pressure in the Kit. In short you are correct in you reservations about using this device on the Honda bleed screws.

I have used this on the last four cars I have owned, however I have a year to go before bleeding the Gen7 for the first time. I may bring that forward to see how short these bleed screws are.

Once again thanks for the important caution as it my save someone a couple of dollars in trying this device.
 

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BRWNFLSH now
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Another reason to like the vacuum method. Any air that enters through the threads is imediately pulled into the vacuum.
 

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however I have a year to go before bleeding the Gen7 for the first time. I may bring that forward to see how short these bleed screws are.
Isn't that a little on the long side? I thought 3 years was the correct interval?

Once again thanks for the important caution as it my save someone a couple of dollars in trying this device.
No problems, that's why we are all here for! :yes:
 

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Mike
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Isn't that a little on the long side? I thought 3 years was the correct interval?
Have only owned the car 2 years, brakes were done by Honda a week before I bought it. Have done all servicing including valve adjustment myself, brakes were the last thing left. Decided to try them half an hour ago – and yes the bleed screw has a very short, course thread. The slightest turn caused fluid to flow out the thread under pressure when a one way valve was fitted to the end of the bleed tube.

These are just about the easiest brakes to access and bleed that I have worked on, barely a 15 minute job to do all four. Paying someone to do it would be a waste of money unless you had a good reason for not tackling the job yourself – no mess no cleanup just a simple job.
 

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Not a n00b!
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Discussion Starter #19
Have only owned the car 2 years, brakes were done by Honda a week before I bought it. Have done all servicing including valve adjustment myself, brakes were the last thing left.

I said were as I did them half an hour ago – and yes the bleed screw has a very short, course thread. The slightest turn caused fluid to flow out the thread under pressure when a one way valve was fitted to the end of the bleed tube.

These are just about the easiest brakes to access and bleed that I have worked on, barely a 15 minute job to do all four. Paying someone to do it would be a waste of money unless you had a good reason for not tackling the job yourself – no mess no cleanup just a simple job.
mine won't be that simple as it's lowered, i need to pull the wheels off all four corners to get at the bleeders... probably more like a few hours and a messy pain in the ass... I'm almost considering taking it in to have it done if i can find a dealer to do if for around $70.00

R.
 

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Mike
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I had to remove the rear wheels as there is insufficient room to turn the bleed valve far enough with a small spanner. However I have a trolley jack so raising both wheels in the air and placing jack stands under the side jacking points is a 30 second job on this car.

If I had to remove the front wheels it would take the same time – great location for front and rear lifting points on the G7-Honda and no need to get on the ground. Slip a clear plastic tube over the nipples and run to a small container, no mess no spill. Still, if you can get someone to do it low cost and you’re busy than I guess it saves you the hassle. There are three places where I will use nothing but Honda fluids - brakes, coolant and power steering- my personal choice - others may/will/can disagree.
 
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