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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2019 1.5 LX
  • Mechanic had to remove the bumper per the kit instructions
    • The kit is the Honda kit and it came with a nice cable protection wrap, tie wraps and so on.
    • He drained the coolant and then put it back in after. So no need to buy more.
      • I'll try to return the coolant to Honda tomorrow. OTOH $23 tax in for 3.78 L - maybe just keep it around...
        • √ - they took it back.
    • Mechanic was pleased with the kit. Very nice fit he said.
      • The block has threads where the B/H went in - B/H was threaded.
  • Mechanic brought the car to my office.
  • I measured 33.2 Ω so that comes out to 434 [email protected] 120VAC
  • When I plugged it in with a Kill-A-Watt I get 400 W. Actual voltage is about 116 however... plus the long extension.
  • Installed cost: CAD$295.45 (incl. taxes).
    • Labour: 1.2 hr @ $89.95 = $107.94 [~US$81.78]
    • Parts: $149.03 [~US$112.90] <- probably high v. US but is the same as Honda Canada.
    • Plus taxes.
Just need to find a good Homekit exterior timer then I can use a shorter extension.
Tomorrow morning temperature will be -13°C per forecast. This should help it get warmer much quicker. Stay tuned. Or not.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Does this mean you'll give us a break of posting about the block heater in every unrelated thread?:ROFLMAO:
Of course not. I rise every day wondering how I can offend you with any given post. I try various levels of subtlety to gauge your thresholds of irritability. It's become a hobby but I'm considering an undergrad in psychology based on you alone.

Interested to know how many bars show on the temp gauge at startup.
I doubt any. But it will be interesting to see how quickly one lights up after I leave for work.

Temp here is -9°C as I write this. Leaving in about 50 minutes. I plugged it in at 06:30 (Haven't got the timer yet).

BUST! When I got up this am (p--s call) I plugged the cable in (inside the garage), but I don't think it was in properly. Suffice it to say that there was ice on the hood (not even softened) and behaviour was as usual. In fact on my slow drive to work I didn't even get the usual 4 bars ... ( ... <organ music> to be continued ....).
 

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Seems pretty unnecessary to me. I live in the great white north and regularly see single digit and sub-zero temps but feel there's no need for this. My car warms up quickly, remote start is great also.
 

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I think it's the best 'mod' you can put on a car in cold climates.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Seems pretty unnecessary to me. I live in the great white north and regularly see single digit and sub-zero temps but feel there's no need for this. My car warms up quickly, remote start is great also.
2019 1.5 definitely does not warm up quickly v. my 2.4L 2003 Accord. I never use remote start. Using a B/H has many benefits: less wear on the engine, less strain on the battery, faster warm-up, lowered fuel consumption and emissions and likely in DI engines less gasoline in the oil. Today @ -9°C [16°F] I drove over 30 km and it never got to the 4th bar where it usually settles. Can't imagine when it hits -20°C here ... I might even block off part of the radiator for the winter.
 

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2019 1.5 definitely does not warm up quickly v. my 2.4L 2003 Accord. I never use remote start. Using a B/H has many benefits: less wear on the engine, less strain on the battery, faster warm-up, lowered fuel consumption and emissions and likely in DI engines less gasoline in the oil. Today @ -9°C [16°F] I drove over 30 km and it never got to the 4th bar where it usually settles. Can't imagine when it hits -20°C here ... I might even block off part of the radiator for the winter.
All the reasons I'm curious how it changes things, Might put one in wife's 1.5
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
<sigh> when I got home last night I checked the extension cable from near the power socket. No resistance (open circuit) with B/H connected. Checked also with the Kill-A-Watt - no power draw. So between the test the first night and the first morning, that cable broke somewhere. It's one I spliced out of two "blue" extensions many years ago and on which I replaced the female socket recently. Either that old splice is bad or I did a bad job replacing the socket or it broke somewhere else.[1]

So I've put a garden extension for now (works fine) and I'll see if I can repair the blue extension over the weekend. It's quite old so possible it's broken somewhere inside. I might buy a higher gauge replacement.

Later today (I'm working from home this am) I'll see how well the B/H works. But it's only just below freezing so far today... still...

[1] [Edit: I just tested the older cable with an multimeter. Looked fine. But jiggled the extension in the area of the splice and found the culprit. That splice has been in service for well over 20 years. I had put a 10-speed bicycle tire inner tube section over the splice area and sealed it all with silicone... anyway cut it all open to find the neutral had corroded a bit and the ground a lot... I'll fix it and use it for here-and-there-use as needed. It's B/H days are over.]
 

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<sigh> when I got home last night I checked the extension cable from near the power socket. No resistance (open circuit) with B/H connected. Checked also with the Kill-A-Watt - no power draw. So between the test the first night and the first morning, that cable broke somewhere. It's one I spliced out of two "blue" extensions many years ago and on which I replaced the female socket recently. Either that old splice is bad or I did a bad job replacing the socket or it broke somewhere else.

So I've put a garden extension for now (works fine) and I'll see if I can repair the blue extension over the weekend. It's quite old so possible it's broken somewhere inside. I might buy a higher gauge replacement.

Later today (I'm working from home this am) I'll see how well the B/H works. But it's only just below freezing so far today... still...
This is great information. I'm pressing "refresh" repeatedly until you post a follow up. I need to know how this is going to end.
 

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So I've put a garden extension for now (works fine) and I'll see if I can repair the blue extension over the weekend. It's quite old so possible it's broken somewhere inside. I might buy a higher gauge replacement.
I think you mean lower gauge- as in thicker and able to handle more amps? Or maybe I am interpreting this wrong.

I also wonder if Honda and other manufacturers did testing with block heaters to measure the affects of a DI engine in cold weather....
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I think you mean lower gauge- as in thicker and able to handle more amps? Or maybe I am interpreting this wrong.

I also wonder if Honda and other manufacturers did testing with block heaters to measure the affects of a DI engine in cold weather....
😖 Yep. Indeed I just got back from doing a few stores and bought a 25' 12 Ga. Cable to replace the 14 Ga. former cable.

Needed? The B/H draws only 400 - 425 W which is less than 4 A. But I'd rather dissipate whatever tiny loss in the B/H than in the cable...

I'm thinking of installing a "shorty" in between the car plug and the cable in case my head's in the clouds some morning... Maybe attach an orange pole to it? Product idea: an alarm in the car when a B/H is powered. Maybe I can splice in a lamp on the car side of the plug... hmm... maybe splice in a heater to warm up the cabin too... this also helps soften ice so it comes off the glass easily...

I wish I knew w/r to DI. I assume it helps. I still find 400W to be a little on the low side. Seems to me the B/H on my 2001 (Honda installed) was around 700W.

Didn't find a "Homekit" compatible timer however in three different stores... Amazon I guess. Crap.

This is great information. I'm pressing "refresh" repeatedly until you post a follow up. I need to know how this is going to end.
Hmm - was that sarcasm? Are you in cahoots with @grumpypolecat?

It will never end. I have a block heater fetish. I'll probably even try an experiment in July to see if it improves mileage.

On a positive note, it did work today due to the modern miracle of using an extension that isn't broken.... although the temperature is mild (about 1°C when I went out), I got heat from the vents about 200 metres from the house. I have to run out again this PM, so I plugged it back in.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
@mtts60 Great idea. I think I've seen those but didn't realize their purpose.

But, I'm not into half measures. Now, if it would also plug itself in when I got home, then we'd have something to talk about!

I haven's seen a "car" size version to date.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Block heater was nice this AM (-21°C overnight, -18°C when I started). Had first bar of the coolant light on much earlier than usual for even 0°C w/o a B/H.
But, driving slowishly (85 km/hr) did not get above 3 bars. Had to drive at 120 for a bit to get 4 bars. Then reduced to 85 it fell to 3 again.

Then there's a long downhill stretch and it fell to 2 bars...

These engines are maybe too efficient? I'll be looking at blocking the front of the car as I used to do, OUAT.

Next test is to drive a section of uphill highway in "S" mode in the AM...

Another "silly me" moment. For some reason I got it into my head that I couldn't read the coolant temperature via OBD-II. Just checked it this am on arriving at work and yep, there it is ( ECT 1 and ECT 2). Would be nice to know where each sensor is ...), so I'll be able to check the coolant temp in the morning after it's been on block heater. That could help me optimize the time that I turn it on in the AM (timer).

Timer just showed up at work (Wemo Mini). I played with it a bit - can turn on/off from the iPhone. But it seems to "program it" one needs an up to date Apple TV (an excuse to upgrade! Yay!) or an iPad that's always powered on. Well, I have a little-used one of those at home...
 

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I can't believe you would ever let your engine go back to 2 bars after it gets to 3 bars. As far as I'm concerned, you should be driving a Kia for that kind of negligence. And not the nicer new Kias. We're talking well-used Rondo here, with inoperative TPMS and a sagging headliner.
 

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I can't believe you would ever let your engine go back to 2 bars after it gets to 3 bars. As far as I'm concerned, you should be driving a Kia for that kind of negligence. And not the nicer new Kias. We're talking well-used Rondo here, with inoperative TPMS and a sagging headliner.
Looks like someone hasn't lived in a climate that sees negative F(below -18C).

If you crank the heat up enough(which you need) with low revs, it can happen. I can observe the same kind of thing on my 8th Gen if my revs are below 2k RPM and I have the manual climate control heat knob turned all the way up. With modern CVT and 10AT, having low revs is pretty easy to do. It's not neglect, it's just that you need the heat so you don't freeze yourself in the car.

So you either have to turn the heat down or downshift to bring up the revs, which will decrease fuel efficiency.

Sent from GM1917. Technology!
 

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Looks like someone hasn't lived in a climate that sees negative F(below -18C).

If you crank the heat up enough(which you need) with low revs, it can happen. I can observe the same kind of thing on my 8th Gen if my revs are below 2k RPM and I have the manual climate control heat knob turned all the way up. With modern CVT and 10AT, having low revs is pretty easy to do. It's not neglect, it's just that you need the heat so you don't freeze yourself in the car.

So you either have to turn the heat down or downshift to bring up the revs, which will decrease fuel efficiency.

Sent from GM1917. Technology!
Great, another bar apologist -- you can talk all you want, but there's never an excuse for 2 bars unless it's just for a minute on the way to 3 bars. I don't know how you guys sleep at night.

Over on the Acura forum they call guys like you "bar hoppers", and it's good for an instant ban.
 

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Curious what the RPM is when you are cruising at in 1.5T CVT in the cold. Does it rev higher than it's warm? I usually keep my 8th Gen 5-speed closer to 2.5k RPM or so when cruising. At -10C there won't be any trouble with heat, but at -30C there can be issues with keeping it warm when the rev goes below 2k RPM and when I want a lot of heat.

Great, another bar apologist -- you can talk all you want, but there's never an excuse for 2 bars unless it's just for a minute on the way to 3 bars. I don't know how you guys sleep at night.

Over on the Acura forum they call guys like you "bar hoppers", and it's good for an instant ban.
So instead of actually having helpful input based on your observations, you just attack people. You also want to somehow defy physics by wanting to increase an engine's temperature while it's running under light load, providing the cabin with hot air and constantly being cooled by freezing(again, negative F or <-18 C) air at high velocity.

I sleep well at night because all my Accord is a temporary transporter for me to get around town and occasionally work. I also know to bring the coolant temp up by downshifting to bring the revs up. This burns more gas(which the OP doesn't want to do) but it keeps me and the car warm.

And I am definitely very, very scared of getting banned on an Acura forum I would never go to because none of their cars attract me.

Sent from GM1917. Technology!
 

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So instead of actually having helpful input based on your observations, you just attack people. You also want to somehow defy physics by wanting to increase an engine's temperature while it's running under light load, providing the cabin with hot air and constantly being cooled by freezing(again, negative F or <-18 C) air at high velocity.

I sleep well at night because all my Accord is a temporary transporter for me to get around town and occasionally work. I also know to bring the coolant temp up by downshifting to bring the revs up. This burns more gas(which the OP doesn't want to do) but it keeps me and the car warm.

And I am definitely very, very scared of getting banned on an Acura forum I would never go to because none of their cars attract me.

Sent from GM1917. Technology!
Ok, bar hopper.

I hope you aren't being serious, because I'm not! I'm not sure if bar hoppers are a thing, but they are now.
 
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