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Discussion Starter #1
After replacing all four calipers (fluid drained), I did the brake bleeding by using vacuum pump at each caliper nipple. Now the brake pedal is very slow to return ( come up) for some reason.
Any advice how to resolve this issue?
Should I do the two man bleeding? Or other components issue like master cylinder or booster?
 

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Mighty strange to have slow pedal return.

I think there has to be a clog in the return bleed hole in the master cylinder. Or corroded spring not sliding smoothly. Perhaps debris jammed the cups. All guesses.

If so rebuild or replace the master cylinder.

Bad brakes ain't good for anybody!!
 

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You should be posting in the proper sub-forum- the one for brakes. Moving now....
 

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Discussion Starter #4
How hard is it to repalce both master cylinder and booster? Do i have to remove the strut bar?
Any tip/advice will be appreciated.
Does the master cylinder require separate bleeding as well?
 

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How hard is it to repalce both master cylinder and booster? Do i have to remove the strut bar?
Any tip/advice will be appreciated.
Does the master cylinder require separate bleeding as well?
Why suspecting master cylinder and booster? Isn't it obvious that your brake fluid caused the symptom? You might have massive amount of air in the system. 4 empty calipers would have made the reservoir dry even before you started bleeding.

I'd do a proper bleeding first and go from there.

It's not hard to replace master cylinder and booster. I did the master cylinder on 3rd gen with very basic tools. If I remember correctly, the MC needs to pre-loaded with brake fluid.
 

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Before you replace anything, check the booster and see if it's good. You might also have an issue with vacuum leak on the brake booster vacuum hose.

And state how you used the vacuum pump to bleed the brakes. Like said above, you might have air in the system also. If you closed the bleeders while a section of air was present then air enters the system.

 

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After replacing all four calipers (fluid drained), I did the brake bleeding by using vacuum pump at each caliper nipple. Now the brake pedal is very slow to return ( come up) for some reason.
Any advice how to resolve this issue?
Should I do the two man bleeding? Or other components issue like master cylinder or booster?
Did you keep the reservoir topped off while you were bleeding?
Hopefully you didn't let air get upstream from the modulator, because if you did you can have issues such as you're describing.
You can try to re-bleed it but if it doesn't work you may have to pressure bleed them with the machine hooked up to the reservoir.

I've found the key to replacing that many calipers is keeping the lines submerged in a bottle of fluid while your installing the calipers, to prevent the lines from sucking air back in as they leak fluid. This method has never failed me.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I used vacuum pump to drain all brake fluid. Yes, I hooked the vaccum pump to the caliper nipples (all 4) to suck all the fluid out unitl no fluid was seen in the master cylinder resovoir.
So, I guess there is air upstream from the modulator.
Is pressure bleeding from the reservoir same as two man bleeding?
 

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^

DAMN. You are not supposed to let the master cylinder run dry at all. You need to have fluid in the mc at all times. After you bleed one corner, top off the mc before you move on to the next corner. You have LOTS of air in the system now, you need to bleed a few more times evacuate all the air.

Pressure bleeding device from the master cylinder end does not work well with Honda's brake fluid reservoir cap design, vacuum leak happens. I actually suggest you take it to a shop now to get this fixed before you dump more money into more devices. You first have to know how to do it properly. If you have 2 people, then you can employ that method, but you'll possibly need 3 or 4 bottles of brake fluid to get all the air out now. I bleed brakes with a clear hose submerged in a clear glass jar with old brake fluid + a $8 valvoline 16oz brake fluid that's it. No fancy devices needed.

 

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Discussion Starter #10
So, I ordered 4 32 oz bottles of brake fluid and I will have my brother pressing the brakes.
We will do the two men method and bleed the air out of the lines starting with driver front and go clockwise. Planning on using all 4 bottles just to make sure no air is in the lines.
Please let me know if my plan is going to work or not.
 

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So, I ordered 4 32 oz bottles of brake fluid and I will have my brother pressing the brakes.
We will do the two men method and bleed the air out of the lines starting with driver front and go clockwise. Planning on using all 4 bottles just to make sure no air is in the lines.
Please let me know if my plan is going to work or not.
That's too much brake fluid. 1 or 2 is probably enough.
The 2-men method, though tedious, is the safest, equivalent to pressure bleeding.

The "pumper" needs to pump the brake pedal 5 times (according to Audi) and keeps pressuring the brake pedal.
"pumper" shouts: "ready!"
The "bleeder" open the bleeder valve and let the fluid out for about 5 seconds. Then close the bleeder.
"bleeder" shouts: "done!"
Then the "pumper" repeats......

I did rear calipers on my 07V6, and flushed fluid on my Audi not long ago. I used a couple of clean, bottled water bottles. Drill a hole in one of the caps and put the tubing through. Once it's filled, cap it and grab another bottle.

Good luck.
 

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It will work, but you might have air trapped inside the ABS modulator. I found this out years ago when I replaced the rear calipers. I managed to bleed that out, only after triggering ABS on very hard braking attempts on a back road, which pushed the air bubbles all the way to the rear upper portion of the calipers.
 

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It will work, but you might have air trapped inside the ABS modulator. I found this out years ago when I replaced the rear calipers. I managed to bleed that out, only after triggering ABS on very hard braking attempts on a back road, which pushed the air bubbles all the way to the rear upper portion of the calipers.
About 2 years ago, I bought a Foxwell NT630 scanner to read SRS code (speed sensor), then I asked the seller to exchange it for an Audi specific scanner.

The Foxwell NT630 has ABS bleeding feature, which seems perfect not only for dealing with the situation you described, but also for easy 1-person break fluid flush.
 

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So, I ordered 4 32 oz bottles of brake fluid and I will have my brother pressing the brakes.
We will do the two men method and bleed the air out of the lines starting with driver front and go clockwise. Planning on using all 4 bottles just to make sure no air is in the lines.
Please let me know if my plan is going to work or not.
You should always start with the furthest caliper from the brake master, and work forward from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I guess it's fixed.
I mean I guess Honda Accord brakes are softer than others. Please let me know if it is not true. I had to bleed the entire system 4 times just to make sure there's no air in the system including the abs module. Also, Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic pads are known for less initial bite (it's more linear than others).
So, I would say it's fixed.
Now I have brand new Honda OEM brake master cylinder, OEM booster, Centric calipers, rotors, and pads with fresh fluids.
Maybe I'm used to ( or spoiled by) my previous car (2017 VW Golf R), which stops like hitting a concrete wall.
 

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I guess it's fixed.
I mean I guess Honda Accord brakes are softer than others. Please let me know if it is not true. I had to bleed the entire system 4 times just to make sure there's no air in the system including the abs module. Also, Centric PosiQuiet Ceramic pads are known for less initial bite (it's more linear than others).
So, I would say it's fixed.
Now I have brand new Honda OEM brake master cylinder, OEM booster, Centric calipers, rotors, and pads with fresh fluids.
Maybe I'm used to ( or spoiled by) my previous car (2017 VW Golf R), which stops like hitting a concrete wall.

Maybe the 2017 VW Golf R never had its master cylinder bled to empty?

You incorrectly bled your brakes. You allowed air into the system and destroyed your master cylinder because you let it dry out.

There are several excellent write-ups on Drive Accord on how to properly bleed your brakes. Research for a few minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
No master cylinder destroyed. I replaced it because i didn’t want to deal with it later when it really breaks.
No air is in the system now and gen 7 accords have softer brakes indeed (test drove 2 gen7s last week)


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Speed bleed bleeders. It could not be more simple. Just know you have it right before trapped air costs you dearly.
 
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