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Brake Fluid Change

9K views 15 replies 9 participants last post by  AverageJoe 
#1 ·
Has anyone ever done one? The Haynes for 03-07 on page 1-21, section 20 says to do this every 30k miles. As bonus I live in a super dusty area so I really should do it at least as often as the book says.

How much fluid do I use? Is the Honda brake fluid better than off the shelf dot 3 from Autozone?

Thanks
 
#5 ·
Again, yes, change the fluid. IMO it's the most neglected maintenance item on a car. It should be clear in the reservoir and if it's not the stuff down at the calipers will be SUPER dirty and can start corrosion and degradation of the seals.

I'd love to see some actual test data on the fluids for moisture absorbtion. I have used a couple brands of fluid (including Valvoline/Motul racing brake fluid) and they all seem to not last as long as OEM. One day I might try Castrol SRF for my track car but am having a hard time justifying the cost at this point. meh
 
#6 ·
From what I've read, brake fluid should be replaced at three year intervals. It's not just a matter of replacing moisture-laden fluid with moisture-free fluid; the corrosion inhibitors in the old fluid get depleted over time.

I use about four 12 fl oz bottles. The system could be flushed with maybe half that amount, but I like to run about three reservoir's worth through the bleeder at each wheel. Some parts departments will let you return unopened containers purchased recently.

I've always replaced with new Honda fluid because it's not expensive and because there's no question it is compatible with the fluid already in the system.

Many higher performance (higher boiling point) fluids also absorb moisture at a faster rate.

If you are also replacing pads, do it before flushing brake fluid.

If you know how, reset the caliper piston in the bore during the flush; this helps drain some of the old fluid out of the caliper.

HTH
 
#7 ·
I've been replacing my brake fluid every six months using fresh Honda fluid. The way I do it only takes a few minutes and I figure since I'm not replacing all of the fluid at once it's better to do it more often than once every three years. I have a coolant tester that I use exclusively to suck out all of the old fluid from the MC and then refill with fresh brake fluid. This way the fluid up top always looks clean and there will always be a good % of new fluid in the system. When I get to the three year mark I'll do a complete flush. Overkill ? maybe, but the fluid is cheap enough, so why not.
 
#8 ·
Hi, So I called honda for an oil change, they recommended that I change the brake fluid..i googled it and decided to do so...when I got into the car I noticed the brake pedal had to be pressed harder for the car to feel like it was stopping. I went back to the dealer I had the mechanic and service advisor test drive the car..they said it was fine..that yes there was a delay but that it was normal for an accord. It felt no different then any other accord. So i took it home..any ideas? Im taking back in on tuesday for them to troubleshoot..they said they use a vacuum.
 
#9 ·
My father-in-law had the dealership change the brake fluid in his Sport Trac. The decided to use 5w-20 instead of dot 3. I borrowed it and complained that it didn't feel like it was braking. After about 3-4 days I was using the emergency brake to slow the vehicle because the brakes were entirely shot. On the plus side he got new lines, master cylinder, and a free brake fluid flush out of it.
 
#10 ·
I use Valvoline DOT 3/4. Awsome stuff. Use the color of the fluid as a guide. It should be very light color and clear. the more amber color it has, the nastier it is. On my car, it took 2 separate flushes to get it clean. I flush 1 qt each time. Same witht he clutch, just a lot less fluid. The '09 Civic we just bought used with like 17k on it needs the brake fluid flushed. I find that FL cars need it more often... maybe it's the humidity. Every 2yrs is what I've found works as a good interval in FL.
 
#11 ·
Yes, using a vacuum is the best way. You don't need two people, and the mater cylinder shaft is not pushed farther than it's ever gone before. That's why many master cylinder failures happen shortly after brake bleeding.
 
#14 ·
As long as moisture in the fluid hasn't rusted the un-used portion of the shaft too much, it will not damage the seals. Once a ridge of rust has formed on the shaft, and that ridge is forced through the seals, damage is likely, and the brake pedal will have that sinking feeling.
 
#16 ·
it's not oil, it's brake fluid.
 
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