I own 2010 Accord 4-cyl automatic sedan base trim. It is time to replace the brake pads and rotors. One mechanic in Michigan quoted me $470 labor included. They will flush the brake fluid as well. All four pads and rotors. OEM parts. Is this price reasonable?
Brake work price question
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Yes that's reasonable.
This is 4 brand new rotors, front and rear pads (what brand?), a brake fluid flush, and all labor, correct?
With a brake flush i'd say that's a fair price, but in my experience mechanics love to replace rotors way too soon. I think even suggesting that "brakes are bad" strikes a nerve with people and they are very willing to replace unnecessary parts. Are your rotors warped or heavily grooved? My wife's CRV has about 110,000 miles on the original rotors and they're perfectly fine. Unless you abuse your brakes and make sudden brakes at high speed, you may not need new rotors.
Also I recently replaced my front pads for about $35. It's a relatively easy job if you're looking to save some money.
Also I recently replaced my front pads for about $35. It's a relatively easy job if you're looking to save some money.
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I just replaced all 4 corners' rotors and pads (Centric products purchased from Amazon), lubricated the caliper pins (Sil-glyde picked up at Advanced Auto), and flushed the brake fluid (Valvoline DOT3/4 purchased at Advanced Auto) a couple weeks ago myself for ~$200. Add in a couple bottles of brake parts cleaner and it's around $210. My '10 Accord LX sedan has ~80,000 miles on it now and the steering wheel was shuddering heavily under braking.
I'd say I probably spent 4 hours working on it (labor rate around my area is ~$90/hr), so $470 for parts and labor seems like a pretty smokin' deal. I'd check to make sure they're actually going to do the job. Probably stand in the shop while they do the work.
I'd say I probably spent 4 hours working on it (labor rate around my area is ~$90/hr), so $470 for parts and labor seems like a pretty smokin' deal. I'd check to make sure they're actually going to do the job. Probably stand in the shop while they do the work.
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As long as they are using OEM or better parts, then yes, it's a good deal. However, don't be afraid to ask him the brand of rotor and pads. If he says they are "white box" tell him no thanks. White box rotors are known to be quite thin and prone to warping.
Only reason I started doing my own brakes was I got sick and tired of the mechanic charging me twice what he paid for the rotors and pads.
Centric rotors and hawk type pads will be a bit over $100. See if he'll allow you to furnish your own parts and have him install them. If so, you can find a number of quality parts on these boards for much less than he is charging you.
Only reason I started doing my own brakes was I got sick and tired of the mechanic charging me twice what he paid for the rotors and pads.
Centric rotors and hawk type pads will be a bit over $100. See if he'll allow you to furnish your own parts and have him install them. If so, you can find a number of quality parts on these boards for much less than he is charging you.
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That's a sweet deal considering the stealership quoted me $190 for JUST rear pad replacements... Did it myself for $35 and <1hr of work.
You are half right. Silly me! I gave the go ahead over the phone and it seems that I didn't fully understand the work he suggested doing. He only changed rear pads and rotors and serviced the e-brake system. And flushed the brake fluid.
I thought I was getting a good deal...
He said front brakes are 70% worn so I automatically assumed that he would replace the front pads and rotors as well.
Do you think I should get the front brakes serviced too?
If I owned a house and garage I would definitely do it myself. Unfortunately I am stuck with my apartment and open parking space!
Where do you live? I bet if you asked, you could find a member on here that lives close to you that would be willing to help you do the job. Throw them a case of beer or whatever they like and you will save a ton of money, get the satisfaction of doing the job yourself and learn much more about your car.
By the way, it is highly unlikely you need new rear rotors. They do so much less work than the fronts that they rarely warp or get chewed up (unless you let the pads wear down to bare metal). So you just need to throw some pads on there and flush the brake fluid.
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You don't service the e-brake, AFAIK.
I live in SE Michigan. Didn't really know that I could get help from this website. I will remember to ask the folks here next time a service is due.
I think rear rotors needed replacing because I was hearing grinding noise before I took my car to the shop. And the rear rotors had already been machined so I trust that the mechanic's decision to replace them was right.
You are right. They didn't service it. They removed and put it back in order to access the calipers. I was told that it required additional time to work with rear brakes due to this.
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What I meant by that is the rear brake system is the e-brake. You pull up on the e-brake handle, it pushes the pads into the rotors. So if you replace the rear pads and rotors (and that means the caliper pistons were twisted back in to the calipers), the e-brake will self-adjust after you use your brakes for the first time.
You got somewhat taken.
E Brake service is pretty much not an issue. Unless the cable is physically broken there is not much to service. The cable does not have to be removed unless you are replacing the calipers and only then to transfer the cable to the new caliper. Some rotors have a larger rotor "HAT" and use basically a mini drum brake assembly that may need to be lubed and cleaned occasionally. I just replaced the rotors and calipers on my G/F 2011 Accord sedan and other than removing the calipers and compressing the pistons inward to account for the thickness of the new pads there was nothing for e-Brake. Any professional shop shouldn't have to remove the cable unless the caliper itself was replaced. Sounds like they were making up charges and makes you wonder what other kind of "Busy Work" they billed you for.
No sense in crying over spilled milk now but I would try to find other vendor for next brake job. I will agree with the Flush and Bleed especially on a 2010. I had a bleed and flush when I had rotate and balance a couple of weeks ago. Logic was the wheels are already off and with oil change....one stop shopping.
E Brake service is pretty much not an issue. Unless the cable is physically broken there is not much to service. The cable does not have to be removed unless you are replacing the calipers and only then to transfer the cable to the new caliper. Some rotors have a larger rotor "HAT" and use basically a mini drum brake assembly that may need to be lubed and cleaned occasionally. I just replaced the rotors and calipers on my G/F 2011 Accord sedan and other than removing the calipers and compressing the pistons inward to account for the thickness of the new pads there was nothing for e-Brake. Any professional shop shouldn't have to remove the cable unless the caliper itself was replaced. Sounds like they were making up charges and makes you wonder what other kind of "Busy Work" they billed you for.
No sense in crying over spilled milk now but I would try to find other vendor for next brake job. I will agree with the Flush and Bleed especially on a 2010. I had a bleed and flush when I had rotate and balance a couple of weeks ago. Logic was the wheels are already off and with oil change....one stop shopping.
I just made the same decision (to not replace front pads at about 70%). If I make it a year (with some margin) I'll consider it a good decision. We'll see.
I'm well over 150k miles on original rotors, FWIW.
I think there is an adjustment (supposed to be so many clicks when you pull the handbrake).
Supposed to be every three years regardless of mileage.
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