[Ride]

Hello you people with good taste in cars, I have a question!

Entering into corners hard I MIGHT get past 2-3 corners and my breaks are over heating. Even if I'm coming at a corner in high speed and just break for the one corner it will over heat. It just sounds like warped rotors until they cool down again and then they're fine. My question is what can I do to correct this? Is drilled and slotted rotors the answer? If so, does anyone want to recommend ones that are decently priced that has worked well for them?

Thanks guys, RIDE

 

[t-rd]

The problems seems to be either a stuck piston or slider pin(s). Have you taken off the caliper to take a look? The brakes should not over until after about 8 to 10 repeated 60 to 10mph stops. If the rear brakes are overheating then check the same components + the e-brake adjustment or stuck e-brake cables.

 

[RickBlaine]

The problems seems to be either a stuck piston or slider pin(s). Have you taken off the caliper to take a look? The brakes should not over until after about 8 to 10 repeated 60 to 10mph stops. If the rear brakes are overheating then check the same components + the e-brake adjustment or stuck e-brake cables.

Ride,

+1 on that...then check your brake fluid. If you have not changed it in 3 years (ideally 2 years) then bleed them brakes and add new fluid- not new fluid from a container that was first opened 6 months ago, but brand spanking new fluid!

My guess is as t-rd said...something is stuck. BUT, in case your rotors and pads are about gone and you have $150, try these:
http://www.brakemotive.com/listings/search/2005/HONDA/ACCORD-COUPE/7482/
4 rotors and full ceramic pads....delivered!

Order on the weekends and save another 8%....remember, you have the 6-6 so your front rotors are HUGE! Everyone else has the smaller rotors.

BTW, that was a funny greeting: "Hello people with good taste in cars...." ha ha ha. Damn True!

 

[Ride]

I did change my rear brake pads recently. I had the fronts too, but I still had lots of wear on them so I didn't change them.
T-RD, come to think of it when I did change the rear brake pads the one on the drivers side I believe had the E-brake arm that didn't want to full disengage. just enough where it was harder to turn with your hands. Even though I'll look at it again, thats not the problem I'm having. Then maybe its the fronts.
Rick, glad you liked the opening! haha :thmsup: I do remember seeing your thread where you done your brakes and was fixing them up with anti sese and that. I'll be sure to do that with mine when it comes time. Thanks for the website!

 

[JimWilly]

Rick, I think there is less braking "reserve" on these cars

for lack of a better term.

I love my 06, got it with 27k on her. But I noticed that when braking from high speeds (75-80) when exiting from an interstate to take on off-ramp in a slightly spirited fashion ( same off ramp I take regularly), the car brakes fine, but towards the end of the braking event, I'll start to get the rumbling "rotor warpage" sound and feel.
When I purchased the car, it had new OEM pads and rotors all around. There is nothing binding anywhere. ( I had all 4 wheels off and inspected them myself) I have "bed" them in after my inspection and cleaning and this produced perfect brake performance for a few thousand miles, but the problem will return ( and has).
Its nothing terrible, but it seems that Honda only designed the car with "adequate" brakes.
On all of my cars in the past, I will update/upgrade the brakes with the best/highest performance parts I can find, aside from going with a "big brake" kit. I'm looking to do so for this car, as I tend to drive fast and I'd just like some additional fade resistance and "reserve"

Does the kit that you linked provide better braking overall, do you have any experience with those products?

Thanks in advance

Jim

 

[RickBlaine]

Ride,

Are the new rear brake pads you installed made of the same material that are on the fronts? Just want to make sure you aren't running semi-metallic on the rears and ceramic on the fronts. That would change your braking dynamic. Also, the rears should more or less "spin" freely with little to no resistance.

JimWilly,

There could be a few reasons for that sound and feel you are having...(do you have a V6 6-Speed, or 4 cylinder, auto or manual?)

1) You could be "re-depositing" brake pad material onto your rotors from time to time. If you make a couple of hard stops- that can heat up the rotors and pads (and fluid). If you suddenly park the car (especially with the e-brake on) you are "cooking" your pads and some pad material will stick to the rotors. This will cause the "warped rotor" feel- which is NOT actually a warped rotor.

2) Your rotors may in fact be slightly warped....it happens. Improper torquing of the wheel to the rotor hub, improper lug nut torquing sequence, throwing cold car wash water onto hot brake rotors, etc....did you check them with a run-out tool? Sometimes, at higher speeds, you don't feel the warping. Only at slower speeds do the warped rotors make themselves known.

3) Your pads may be non-symmetrical: Are they wearing at the same rate? Compare left and right sides to each other, as well as the pads on either side of the same rotor....are they similar?

As for the link above- they work very well for me. Lots of negativity about drilled and slotted rotors began 10-15 years ago when manufacturers had no real idea what the heck they were doing. They run cooler, run longer, and are zinc-plated so that there is no more rust on the hubs or cooling vanes. As long as you are not auto-crossing your car, you will be fine.

As for auto-crossing: I used to race a Dodge Stealth Twin Turbo and would go through a set of pads in 2 hours. I would also have to change the Motul 600 brake fluid. Before I could change the pads I would have to pull the wheels and let the car cool for an hour- they were that hot. One time when I was changing rotors and pads, I deliberately left the car in neutral, put on the parking brake, and let the brake pads "cook" onto the rotors. After an hour, you can clearly measure the newly "warped" rotors just from that.

 

[t-rd]

To check if the rear is sticking,

- release e-brake
- jack up the rear end of the car using the tow hook and put both rear sides on jack stands
- spin the rear wheels. They should spin freely with just a slight drag.

If you get more than just a slight drag, then something is sticking in the rear.

 

[RickBlaine]

Ride: Just want to make sure you checked that the rear pads (the inner pad's have a small pin on the backing plate) are seated properly with the horizontal and vertical slots in the caliper's piston....

If the pin is not seated into the slot, it is therefore dragging the rear rotor.

 

[frenzal]

Stay away from OEM rotors and pads.

Get a nice set of good rotors and high performance pads (Carbotech, Hawk, ...) and it should be a lot better!

 

[Ride]

Thanks for all the info guys. Yous are awesome.

As for the my E-Brake statement, my problem is the arm that connects directly to the emergency brake cable. It won't quite COMPLETELY disengage. I can see a slight notch in it from the usage. So I think its either that that has to be replaced OR the spring that keeps the tension on it. It maybe wore out a bit.

Rick, all this time I've been seeing your profile picture I thought it was a Grand National!! Hahahahaha Now I come to realize its an old accord .. for a second I didn't think that made sense lol

 

[RickBlaine]

Yeah, it is the original American-built Accord. My neighbor bought one back in 1982 or 1983 and as a kid I was amazed at how it always started- even during Chicago's record-breaking cold snap of minus 22 degrees F back in 1983. Every American car on our block would not start unless the owner brought the battery into the home at night (to keep it warm). Even then, sometimes their cars would not start- but that Accord? Every Single Time.

When I grew up and traveled, I realized that the west coast had been buying Japanese cars for years. We were "late" here in the midwest.

But yeah, it does look like a G/N...I remember the FBI bought the last 50 ever made as they were the fastest American-made production cars you could buy- faster than a Vette, even.

As for the brakes, a new member here on the forum had a stuck e-brake cable. His only solution was to buy a re-manufactured caliper as our suggestions were not helping him. His spring was frozen- would not move nor come out....numbers 23/30 on the diagram (I assume for left or right side).

http://www.bkhondaparts.com/parts-c...exl/5-speed-automatic/chassis/rear-brake-disk

 

[Ride]

Thats exactly what it is Rick! :thmsup: I'm gunna have to look into this on the weekend. But either way I'd like to know the cure for this problem with the over heating, on another forum, there is a lot of guys claiming to have the same problem

 

[Aviography]

Hello you people with good taste in cars, I have a question!

Entering into corners hard I MIGHT get past 2-3 corners and my breaks are over heating. Even if I'm coming at a corner in high speed and just break for the one corner it will over heat. It just sounds like warped rotors until they cool down again and then they're fine. My question is what can I do to correct this? Is drilled and slotted rotors the answer? If so, does anyone want to recommend ones that are decently priced that has worked well for them?

Thanks guys, RIDE

Exactly where and how you are going through multiple corners requiring maximum braking to the point of "overheating" your brakes?

How do you know the brakes were "overheated"?

BTW, it's NOT breaking, breaking is things stop working, braking is when car slows down.

 

[Ride]

Exactly where and how you are going through multiple corners requiring maximum braking to the point of "overheating" your brakes?

How do you know the brakes were "overheated"?

BTW, it's NOT breaking, breaking is things stop working, braking is when car slows down.

It will happen in 2-3 different situations, sometimes emergency braking, especially when I make my car 'perform' around a few corners, and when going down mountains. (yes I do leave it in a low gear but when you go down in a long duration with many corners you have no choice to brake sometimes.)
Apologies on the grammar. Yes, I knew this but obviously didn't re-read what I was typing, thanks.

 

[mtbrider24]

Ride,

Coming in to this late but did you ever figure out what was causing your car's brakes to overheat? I'm having similar problems with my 2010 CT. Right rear brake overheats and is sometimes scorching hot when all others might only be warm. Road and driving conditions don't change but amount of overheating will vary. Some days it's just too hot to touch and others it's scorching and definitely too hot to touch! Can't help the daily commute over a steep mountain pass with 8-10% grade and plenty of turns for about nine miles but it'll sometimes happen driving a straight route to town and back about seven miles round trip. Dealer is focusing on wider +2 rims even though the o.d. of the tires is about the same as the OEM, thinks they might be affecting the traction control system. If plus size rims were the culprit, I think all wheels/ brakes would be affected nearly the same...not just one.

Thoughts from others also appreciated.

 

[jimijam]

how do YOU know your brakes are over heating?

touching hot rotors is stupid. stop being stupid.

 

[Amar]

anybody done the brembo big brake kit?

 

[jimijam]

why don't you do a search instead of coming into a thread and derailing it?

 

[BLCKFLSH]

What you want to avoid is hard braking, followed by sitting at a red light with the brakes held (hot pads clamped tight to a hot stopped rotor). If you've just braked hard, try to slow to a crawl a few feet early, so you can keep the wheels slightly rolling, or put the car in neutral, so you can at least let up on the brake pedal while the car is stopped. A couple hard stops, then sitting at a red light/stop sign with the brakes on, will ruin good brakes fast. You can usually fix this by doing the pad break-in procedure.

 

[t-rd]

There is no way you know for sure the brakes are overheating unless you take a infrared heat gun and point at the rotor. Do some "normal" driving, measure, do some stupid driving, then measure again and compare.