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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This "mid" tier system has 8 speakers with 180 watts between them. I believe it breaks down like this, which is pretty common:

Front (Component Speakers):
  • Tweeters in door pillars @ 3.2ohms
  • 6.5" Speaker in door @ 4ohms

Back (Coaxial Speakers):
  • Tweeters attached to speakers @ 3.2ohms
  • 6.5 Speakers in rear deck @ 4ohms

I'm 90% sure this is right based off what I've found online and seen in my 1.5 Sport. I'm trying to find out what the power distribution between these are and haven't found anything online yet. Has anyone dug in to this yet and found out?

The end game is that I'd like to replace the front speakers with something inexpensive but nice, like Hertz Uno, that can be powered by the stock system. Not looking for much because overall I like the system. However the front speakers sound bad at/near full volume so I use fading and EQ settings to prevent the distortion. I think that the front speakers are being over powered.

Depending on how much power is supplied to the front speakers and tweeters it would be simple to replace the speaker or get a coax speaker and use cables from both speaker and tweeter.
 

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I'd be interested in this too... I have the 1.5T Sport and i'm not impressed by the system at all. The BASS is super weak.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Updated OP with Ohm info. Wasn't able to find how much power is going to each so I'll likely have to use a multimeter to figure this out. Don't know when I'll get around to doing that.
 

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Yeah, I will be picking my 2.0 sport up this weekend. Test drove it today and listened to some songs through Apple Play and through my IPOD. Sound quality is awful. My initial plan is to put some good component speakers in the front doors. Probably put a powered sub in the trunk.
 

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This "mid" tier system has 8 speakers with 180 watts between them. I believe it breaks down like this, which is pretty common:

Front (Component Speakers):
  • Tweeters in door pillars @ 3.2ohms
  • 6.5" Speaker in door @ 4ohms

Back (Coaxial Speakers):
  • Tweeters attached to speakers @ 3.2ohms
  • 6.5 Speakers in rear deck @ 4ohms

I'm 90% sure this is right based off what I've found online and seen in my 1.5 Sport. I'm trying to find out what the power distribution between these are and haven't found anything online yet. Has anyone dug in to this yet and found out?

The end game is that I'd like to replace the front speakers with something inexpensive but nice, like Hertz Uno, that can be powered by the stock system. Not looking for much because overall I like the system. However the front speakers sound bad at/near full volume so I use fading and EQ settings to prevent the distortion. I think that the front speakers are being over powered.

Depending on how much power is supplied to the front speakers and tweeters it would be simple to replace the speaker or get a coax speaker and use cables from both speaker and tweeter.
On the 2.0 Sport, it is 2 sets of components. Just had them replaced on mine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I was going to update the OP to reflect that the rear speakers are component speakers not coax but apparently we can't edit posts?

Edit:
I can edit this, but not the OP
 

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Another sound enthusiast looking to replace original speakers with something better and not very expensive.. I'm looking at several options at Crunchfields but I'm not sure how the 180w stereo distributes the power. Will keep searching for now and add whatever information I can find .



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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After doing a bunch of research and narrowing things down, I decided on replacement speakers. My car is in the shop right now having the speakers installed. Also, having the windows tinted.

Going with JL Audio C2-650X coax in the front and Kenwood Excelon KFC-X174 in the back.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2...awkw=+jl++c2++650x&awmt=b&awnw=g&awug=9027599

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-pbGnmyqWuUD/p_113KFCX174/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-X174.html

No additional amp. No subwoofer. No disconnect on the ANC. I will report back tomorrow on quality.
 

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Just got the car back. Huge improvement over stock speakers. The JL speakers are awesome. The Kenwoods really don't come into play much. The clarity is great on the new speakers. Great highs, mids and decent low end. In my opinion, it is still missing a sub. i will add that later. For now, the sound is very good and much better than it was.
 

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Has anyone seen if the subwoofer output is available on the 180w systems headunit? The 400w gets the same. I think on the 400w systems built in equalizer you have bass and subwoofer menus not just bass. (Bass treble front rear left settings). What if there is an open output just sitting there ready to use vs tapping into the rear speakers?
 

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Just got the car back. Huge improvement over stock speakers. The JL speakers are awesome. The Kenwoods really don't come into play much. The clarity is great on the new speakers. Great highs, mids and decent low end. In my opinion, it is still missing a sub. i will add that later. For now, the sound is very good and much better than it was.
Good to hear there was an improvement with just a speaker upgrade.

Any reason you chose coaxials over components? Is the factory tweeter still installed in the pillar?
 

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I kept the original tweeters installed and hooked up. My installer convinced me that this was the better way to go. The sound is really good. I put some drive time in last night so got to listen quite a bit with different types of music. The sound is great. Very detailed, clear and no distortion. I still fill the total package is missing the low in full that only a subwoofer can provide. But to be honest it sounds great as it is. I can best describe the sound as similar to a really good pair of headphones.

I strongly recommend the JL C2 650 coaxals for the front doors. If you do this, I would go ahead and leave the factory rear deck speakers in and put a sub in the trunk. That would be a perfect system.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I kept the original tweeters installed and hooked up. My installer convinced me that this was the better way to go.
If putting in coax speakers like you did I don't know why they would recommend this. It would make more sense to get a standalone component speaker in this scenario. You're splitting power that was going to just the 6.5" speaker to the new 6.5" speaker and its built-in 3/4" tweeter.

For best sound you normally want at least the tweeters up higher and pointed in to the cabin, preferably towards the driver, but powering speakers properly makes a bigger difference. Considering how quite the front factory tweeters are it makes no sense to leave them connected when adding a coax speaker.

When I upgrade my front speakers I'll either be getting components or feeding both tweeter and 6.5" speaker inputs to a coax speaker and disconnecting the front factory tweeters.
 

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Hello all. Just got my 2.0 sport. Would I be correct in assuming that getting some 2 or 3 ohm speakers will let me squeeze a little extra wattage out of our head unit? I was looking at some infinity 6.5 that are 3 ohms
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hello all. Just got my 2.0 sport. Would I be correct in assuming that getting some 2 or 3 ohm speakers will let me squeeze a little extra wattage out of our head unit? I was looking at some infinity 6.5 that are 3 ohms
That's if the amp supports the lower resistance and that's a big if. They generally make these as straightforward with little to no wiggle room to reduce manufacturing costs. It's likely that by using a lower resistance speaker you may damage something.
 
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