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After doing a bunch of research and narrowing things down, I decided on replacement speakers. My car is in the shop right now having the speakers installed. Also, having the windows tinted.

Going with JL Audio C2-650X coax in the front and Kenwood Excelon KFC-X174 in the back.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_136C2...awkw=+jl++c2++650x&awmt=b&awnw=g&awug=9027599

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-pbGnmyqWuUD/p_113KFCX174/Kenwood-Excelon-KFC-X174.html

No additional amp. No subwoofer. No disconnect on the ANC. I will report back tomorrow on quality.
As far as the Kenwood Excelons are concerned, are you sure those will fit in the rear doors? Crutchfield is telling me those don't fit my 2018 Accord Sport.
 

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we just need someone to install and post instruction or video. so that the rest of us can DIY.
 

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Just got the car back. Huge improvement over stock speakers. The JL speakers are awesome. The Kenwoods really don't come into play much. The clarity is great on the new speakers. Great highs, mids and decent low end. In my opinion, it is still missing a sub. i will add that later. For now, the sound is very good and much better than it was.
if you can change it, would you install JL speakers in the back too? instead of Kenwoods.
 

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How does the new speaker setup sound? I know I'm probably expecting too much, but I really thought the 180W system would have more punch. No bass at all, either. Can you get decent bass out of the size speakers in the sport models? Not sure how much I want to mess with adding a sub.
It's not the 180w, it's the bass roll-off what makes the lack of bass. That would be about 17w RMS per channel which is what most aftermarket head unit do. But aftermarket head unjts dont have that roll-off.

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It's not the 180w, it's the bass roll-off what makes the lack of bass. That would be about 17w RMS per channel which is what most aftermarket head unit do. But aftermarket head unjts dont have that roll-off.

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Huh? If the head unit was the issue changing the speakers wouldn't make a difference. I think you mean the roll off of the stock speakers.

I haven't seen a solid state amp that can't do 20-20k Hz since I don't know when.
 

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Huh? If the head unit was the issue changing the speakers wouldn't make a difference. I think you mean the roll off of the stock speakers.

I haven't seen a solid state amp that can't do 20-20k Hz since I don't know when.
The factory head unit has a roll-off at 50hz. I changed speakers and cranked the bass and the new speakers are able to handle it. But there's no response starting where the roll-off is. I can tell on songs that go low low and the notes dissapear.

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That would be too bad. A filter rolling off at 50 HZ for a 6.5 - 6.75 driver seems excessive; especially if it is something like 12 or 24 dB.

More importantly, where are people tapping in to get a full range signal for add on amplifiers or component speakers?
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 ·
Roll off is usually a term for describing the point on factory head units where turning up the volume no longer increases the bass volume, not a band pass filter which is what Raziel_10thGen actually described. This filter does roll off frequencies rather than hard cuts them so technically the term roll off isn't wrong, it's just used in a different way when referencing stock head units and their EQs. There is no band pass filter on the 180w system and at least the rear speakers surprisingly have no roll off either.

I've tapped my left rear speaker and tested the sound by ear. Of course an oscilloscope would give us better results but I don't have one.
 

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I have a spare set of Kicker 6.75 coax speakers I was going to use in a different vehicle. I'm going to install them in the front of my Accord; I am interested in what the result will be. I was hoping they would be enough to satisfy me.

I don't have the inclination anymore to install a high end system and I am too cheap to pay someone else to do it.
 

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So I just installed the right front JL speaker. I think it sounds awful! I turned the balance so I isolated the speaker that was replaced and cycled back and forth between the left front and right front speakers. The new speaker sounds tinny and has no base. Could it be installed out of phase? I used the harness adapter and I think it only goes one way, so I'm not sure that is the problem.
 

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The adapter had a white and black wire. The wires coming out of the door had red and black. I connected black to black and red to white. Is this correct?

As far as pins on the speaker itself it only appeared to go one way.
 

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Actually now that I've spent a little more time listening to it, I really have to turn the bass all the way to the max to hear the JL bass. But it is much clearer than the old speakers. Old speakers were completely washed out.

Perhaps when I install the other front speaker I will be more impressed.
 

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By the way, the reason I haven't installed the other speaker is I completely botched the install of the first one. I jammed the spacer onto the speaker/door and broke the spacer. So I have to order a new one and wait for it to ship. I sent an email to Crutchfield and hopefully they can ship me one fast!

Also, the kit did not seem to come with screws for attaching the speaker to the spacer. So I bought some #8 x 3/4" length body screws and used those. I'm sure those are not the appropriate screws but I figured if it keeps the speaker secure it shouldn't be an issue.
 

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Roll off is usually a term for describing the point on factory head units where turning up the volume no longer increases the bass volume, not a band pass filter which is what Raziel_10thGen actually described. This filter does roll off frequencies rather than hard cuts them so technically the term roll off isn't wrong, it's just used in a different way when referencing stock head units and their EQs. There is no band pass filter on the 180w system and at least the rear speakers surprisingly have no roll off either.

I've tapped my left rear speaker and tested the sound by ear. Of course an oscilloscope would give us better results but I don't have one.
So are you saying that on 180w system the rear speakers goes all the way down to 20Hz? If so life would be much easier (ie. Fade all the way to the rear with amp, and tap front left to push a center speaker so I get all the voice guidance) ...I would connect a LOC to sound card and check out with RTA this weekend.

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Discussion Starter · #56 ·
So are you saying that on 180w system the rear speakers goes all the way down to 20Hz? If so life would be much easier (ie. Fade all the way to the rear with amp, and tap front left to push a center speaker so I get all the voice guidance) ...I would connect a LOC to sound card and check out with RTA this weekend.

Sent from my SM-G950U1 using Tapatalk
My subs aren't the highest quality so they only respond down to 27Hz, can't say the stock system goes all the way down or not. I've upgraded my amp to an HD750 but haven't taken the plunge on my next sub yet.
 

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Got my replacement adapter/spacer last night! Crutchfield was nice and shipped me a new one for free!

I'm going to complete the install later tonight or tomorrow and let you know my revised impressions about how it sounds. I notice that with just the one speaker, I have to push the bass up to the max in order to get it to sound good.
 

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Which JL speakers did you go with? yeah, I had to push the bass up considerably. The more I listen to the system, I believe I need a stronger amp to push them. I also want to add a sub. But the sound quality is way better than the factory speakers.
 

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if you can change it, would you install JL speakers in the back too? instead of Kenwoods.
probably not. Since I am always in the front, the JL's dominate the listening experience and the Kenwoods play a secondary role. They put out good bass so I am happy with the set up as it is. The only change I want to make is to add a sub. Maybe a small amp to get more wattage to the speakers.
 

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Which JL speakers did you go with? yeah, I had to push the bass up considerably. The more I listen to the system, I believe I need a stronger amp to push them. I also want to add a sub. But the sound quality is way better than the factory speakers.
I got the same ones you did. C2-650X
 
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