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My Honda Accord 2006 2.4L with over 130k miles has been leaking oil for a few months. After joining this forum I´ve found that the possible cause was the gasket on the VTEC solenoid. I planned to order the part and replace it, but never got to do it.

2 Weeks ago I noticed my oil level was low, so I added a liter of 5W-20 oil. Four days later I started the engine and found and Engine Light. When trying to accelerate the vehicle i won´t go pass 3000 rpm.

I want to try to fix this for myself. So I ordered a pack that includes the VTEC solenoid gasket and o-ring and another gasket that goes in the front. Also ordered a OBDII Scanner to check de exact code.

My Oil looks new and it´s very hard to read. But makes me think I still have low oil. The oil on the bottom of the stick is brown color and in the top between the holes y looks like splattered and can hardly see it, unless I touch it. Does that means I have low oil?

What do you guys recommend me to do first after my scanner and gaskets come first. I'm not a pro mechanic or anything, but I wanna try to fix this on my own.

Thanks in advance.
 

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The oil on the bottom of the stick is brown color and in the top between the holes y looks like splattered and can hardly see it, unless I touch it. Does that means I have low oil?
Sounds like the oil is not homogeneous, almost makes me think that something that normally should not be in the crankcase had found a way in there. If the dipstick doesn't smell like gasoline it might be coolant, which may be due to a head gasket issue. Does not necessarily mean that the vtec solenoid gasket is good, but a bad head gasket can also be the cause of the oil leak that you knew about for a few months.
 

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My Honda Accord 2006 2.4L with over 130k miles has been leaking oil for a few months. After joining this forum I´ve found that the possible cause was the gasket on the VTEC solenoid. I planned to order the part and replace it, but never got to do it.

2 Weeks ago I noticed my oil level was low, so I added a liter of 5W-20 oil. Four days later I started the engine and found and Engine Light. When trying to accelerate the vehicle i won´t go pass 3000 rpm.

I want to try to fix this for myself. So I ordered a pack that includes the VTEC solenoid gasket and o-ring and another gasket that goes in the front. Also ordered a OBDII Scanner to check de exact code.

My Oil looks new and it´s very hard to read. But makes me think I still have low oil. The oil on the bottom of the stick is brown color and in the top between the holes y looks like splattered and can hardly see it, unless I touch it. Does that means I have low oil?

What do you guys recommend me to do first after my scanner and gaskets come first. I'm not a pro mechanic or anything, but I wanna try to fix this on my own.

Thanks in advance.
The VTC solenoid is at the back of the motor. When you open your bonnet, should be to the left, facing the cabin, not too far from the valve cover.
I too am losing oil and when I went under to change sway bars, I saw the oil residue and I ordered an oil pan gasket. I went back under there to change out my half shaft that same week, when I realized the oil was all in one place to the right of the drain plug if you’re under the car, head pointed to cabin, the oil trail lead to the VTC solenoid and so I ordered it’s gasket kit.
As far as not going over 3000rpm, my car also enters limp mode with CEL after some spirited driving, I’m almost 100% certain installing the new gasket will fix this.
I am installing it this weekend along with an oil & filter change since seasons are changing here in NYC.
I recommend you to jack your car up, and take a look at your engine block around the oil pan, especially around where the VTC solenoid is. See if there’s oil residue congregated in that area; running down the block and any residue on the oil pan, then you’ll know for sure where you are losing oil.


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The codes are the key, but the VTEC system uses oil pressure to do its thing. Clean oil and lots of it is needed for it to work properly. There are screens in the VTEC system that get clogged as well as solenoids that fail. Once you have the exact code we can recommend a repair. Obviously any oil leak is a concern.

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the replies.

Today I received my OBD scanner. The Codes are P0102 and P0172. I've make my research and it's nothing related to the VTEC which is odd, because the RPM issue is related to the solenoid (according to google search).

My car continues to leak and I suspect is from the solenoid (tomorrow I'll inspect it properly).

Engine light still on and same issue.

Failed to mention that my radiator fan is not working and needs to be replaced. That issue ocurred 1 week before the engine light. Dunno if it's related.

What are my options for the P0102? Cleaning the MAF sensor?

Are the symptoms caused by the problem of those codes?

Thanks in advance.
 

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I pulled out the sensor (see picture). Sprayed a little compressed air from a can and reinstalled it. Would have to delete the code to see if it appears again. When I turned the car on, engine light was still on and couldn´t accelerate over 3,000 RPM.


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The mass airflow sensor and the rich condition are most likey related. The P0102 is telling you the signal is low or missing, if the wiring is in good shape I would suspect the Mass airflow sensor is bad. Replace it and then clear the codes and see how it runs.


Obviously any oil leak is bad.

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I tried to clean the MAF sensor by just using a compressed air can. Deleted the codes and ran the scanner again. I´m only getting the P0102 code now. Will try by cleaning with a MAF Cleaner tomorrow and inspecting the wiring.

Will update tomorrow.
 

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Cleaning it will not fix a P0102 error. Verify it has 12 volts, if it has power and is not sending the proper signal it is broken. You could unplug it and see how it drives.

Clearing the codes will set the fuel trims back to 0, but once it starts running again the p0172 will return.

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The bad MAF sensor could be the cause of the P0172. The P0172 is bank 1 running too rich, if the MAF sensor is sending the wrong data to the ECM that can cause the incorrect fuel map to the injectors.

Once you have the MAF working hopefully the P0172 clears as well.

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My Honda Accord 2006 2.4L with over 130k miles has been leaking oil

2 Weeks ago I noticed my oil level was low, so I added a liter of 5W-20 oil.

My Oil looks new and it´s very hard to read. But makes me think I still have low oil. The oil on the bottom of the stick is brown color and in the top between the holes y looks like splattered and can hardly see it, unless I touch it. Does that means I have low oil?
Your oil is still low. Wipe the stick clean then straight in and back out. I bet you need another 1-1.5 l

No oil. No v-tec. No rev past about 2800.



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Quick update of my work today.

1. Replaced the Vtec solenoid gasket. No leaks so far.

2. Cleaned the MAF sensor with maf cleaner. Didn't work. Also checked the air filter to see if it was clogged. No issue there.

3. Replaced the MAF sensor for an Hitachi, but noticed the serial number is different from the one that came with the vehicle. Would that be a issue?

This fixed the problem right away. I deleted the codes and the car runs fine. What can I expect in the following days? I read that the car needs to get used to the new sensor. Would that be a problem?

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The MAF sensor will be sending the correct information on how much air the engine is using. That will allow the fuel injection to set the mixture correctly. The ECM is constantly adjusting and you really should not notice anything. There is some learning going on but nothing that you would notice. Glad it is running good now. Keep an eye on the fuel trims and make sure they stay near 0.

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