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I bought my 2018 when 2019s just hit the lot, sales told me the discount was about $500 for older model year. Assuming same model, same mileage, same condition as a long term owner I still took the $500.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
I've said this before in other threads, and car buying experts like Tom McPharland on Jalopnik have also echoed it, but there is such a thing as waiting too long. It is not reasonable to expect something like a 2019 model to sell for $2k or more under what a 2020 does. Maybe in the $500 - $1000 range, but that is really pushing it. Dealers try to clear out old inventory before the new models arrive and they'll get incentives from the manufactures to help with that, but within a month of two of the new model those end. Now as the dealer you have two models sitting on your lot and no incentives you can use to help entice people on last years model. The dealer can only go so low and there probably isn't very much of a cost difference between the two cars for them, so the $500 is them willing to maybe lose $500 on the 2019 to get rid of it. The margins on the cars are already pretty thin as it is when you can already get $4,000 off the brand new model year.

I'm not saying its a sound business strategy or trying to say you shouldn't expect more off, just trying to bring some reason and rationale into the situation for those that come here every model year change wondering why the prices they are quoted seem so close together. If it were my money I'd just get the 2020 and move on.

Now in your specific situation, hybrids are also harder to come by. There is a massive dealer by me that has literally 300+ Accords in stock at times and they maybe usually have 10 hybrids max. If you can find what you are looking for in the color you want for the hybrid just go for it.
Wow thank you! This is great information and makes sense. I appreciate you posting this. I was just under the assumption that older vehicles that have been sitting on the lot for awhile would get huge discounts. I guess I wasn’t looking at it from this perspective.

It's also not realistic to think that because the car is a 2019 it has been sitting on the lot for a full year. It could be a late build 2019 that has only been on the lot for a few weeks or a month.
True. You are right.

So historically, within the same generation, how much can you expect to "save" by buying last year's version compared to the current version, and at which time of year?

I am not the buying expert here- but looking at the "Prices Paid" threads members were kind enough to build on, it seems you can get a 2019 for about $400 less than a 2020, if you wait until end of December 2019; or "save" $500 if you wait until February. Of course, selection may not be as good. And if gas prices go up, all bets are off.
I guess I’ve got unreal expectations then. Well, that’s why I came here so I can get a real world expectation.
 

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It's also not realistic to think that because the car is a 2019 it has been sitting on the lot for a full year. It could be a late build 2019 that has only been on the lot for a few weeks or a month.
Well in that case anyone that buys a late build 2019 for $500 less than a new 2020 is kinda....ehhh...dumb. You guys that seem to think someone is crazy for looking to save a bunch of cash on a leftover 2019. I guess if the guy goes to trade that 2019 in in a year and he’s told its worth $5000 less than a 2020 because it’s a 2 model year old car, he always has that massive $500 upfront savings to comfort him. Good grief, hell yeah someone should expect decent money off an end of model year car regardless of build date. I guess the dealer will only devalue that 2019 $500 more at trade-in than the 2020, right?
 

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port & polish everything
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If you trade cars after just a year or two, you will take a huge loss no matter what. Do this 3 or 4 times and you will give away the value of an entire new car.
 

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Well in that case anyone that buys a late build 2019 for $500 less than a new 2020 is kinda....ehhh...dumb. You guys that seem to think someone is crazy for looking to save a bunch of cash on a leftover 2019. I guess if the guy goes to trade that 2019 in in a year and he’s told its worth $5000 less than a 2020 because it’s a 2 model year old car, he always has that massive $500 upfront savings to comfort him. Good grief, hell yeah someone should expect decent money off an end of model year car regardless of build date. I guess the dealer will only devalue that 2019 $500 more at trade-in than the 2020, right?
My reading comprehension of this thread centers on the AMOUNT of savings over two new, unused vehicles. Everyone here agrees there should be "savings" of a 2019 vs. a 2020. It is the amount we are talking about.
 

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My reading comprehension of this thread centers on the AMOUNT of savings over two new, unused vehicles. Everyone here agrees there should be "savings" of a 2019 vs. a 2020. It is the amount we are talking about.
Yes and that amount better be more than $500 for a new 2019 vs a new 2020. The 2019 takes a much bigger hit than the $500 differential the moment you drive away. But hey if everyone is “ok” with that then that’s great.

Of course trading every two years is insane. It was just an example, but the loss on a 2019 would be much more than the 2020.
 

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port & polish everything
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Yes and that amount better be more than $500 for a new 2019 vs a new 2020. The 2019 takes a much bigger hit than the $500 differential the moment you drive away. But hey if everyone is “ok” with that then that’s great.

Of course trading every two years is insane. It was just an example, but the loss on a 2019 would be much more than the 2020.
That's an assertion unsupported by the market and mixing in both the used car hit with the model year. Honda didn't run a year end incentive last year nor this year, so someone is still buying at $500 off. Paying extra for the 2020 is still a losing game because guess what, 2021 will be a mid model refresh and 2020 will definitely take a big hit next year. The best financial decision then is to of course never buy any car if possible.

I do think the conventional wisdom about buying at year end has been wrong at least for the accord last two years. Honda ran ~$1000 incentives in the spring but not the fall for the last two years on the Accord. Taking into account the 2021 refresh, it's even more likely that there will be an incentive most of next year on the 2020 model.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
I know folks who have bought last year's model and been thrilled at saving $300-500 over this year's model. I personally wouldn't do that, but the dealers know that someone will come along. Just buy a car you want at a price you can live with and move on.

In regards to dealers not emailing prices, I dealt with a few like that. I gave them a courtesy call to say that I didn't get their email and that I was only going to move forward with dealers that I had OTD pricing up front for. A couple responding via email with a price that was a waste of my time calling them for. If they get you to come in to talk pricing, they are just going to try and wear you down. They do it all the time. No point in wasting time negotiating if you don't know the starting point. The more leverage you have walking in, the better.
This is the frustration I face currently. It shouldn’t be a mystery to find out beforehand how much a particular car is going for. I was on the phone with one of the sales manager the other day. We started out emailing, telling me about a “Clearance Event” they were holding last weekend. He kept circling around my questions of pricing so I decided to call him. When I requested he tell me the price for the car I wanted, he kept insisting I come in to do a test drive and that he can’t give me a price unless I go in. I told him I will only go in if I can get the price upfront, explaining to him that I have very limited free time and don’t want to waste time taking a drive there only to find that the price is too high. He wouldn’t budge on his stance. Oh well.

That's an assertion unsupported by the market and mixing in both the used car hit with the model year. Honda didn't run a year end incentive last year nor this year, so someone is still buying at $500 off. Paying extra for the 2020 is still a losing game because guess what, 2021 will be a mid model refresh and 2020 will definitely take a big hit next year. The best financial decision then is to of course never buy any car if possible.

I do think the conventional wisdom about buying at year end has been wrong at least for the accord last two years. Honda ran ~$1000 incentives in the spring but not the fall for the last two years on the Accord. Taking into account the 2021 refresh, it's even more likely that there will be an incentive most of next year on the 2020 model.
Yea it’s so strange how Honda rarely, if ever, does incentives or rebates. I’m not new at buying brand new cars. I’ve bought half a dozen in my lifetime, and every time I buy, I usually get some awesome incentives, so going to Honda from Chevy and Hyundai’s I was shocked at that.
 

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Yea it’s so strange how Honda rarely, if ever, does incentives or rebates. I’m not new at buying brand new cars. I’ve bought half a dozen in my lifetime, and every time I buy, I usually get some awesome incentives, so going to Honda from Chevy and Hyundai’s I was shocked at that.
Honda is taking the high road (pun intended) and trying to maintain the value of their brand. People that buy cars at deep discounts seldom consider that they'll end up giving up that discount at the end when they trade/sell the vehicle. Hondas cost more new, and therefore maintain a higher value when used.

The price is also a statement of quality, which is why people on this board flip out over a rattle more than Lexus owners do. I see threads decrying the Accord as a complete POS, and when you dig in to the real issue, it's often surprising how minor the complaint is. For a Chevy to be a complete POS, it usually has to catch on fire or leave you stranded (or both). For an Accord to be a POS, it can have a rattle between 50 and 52 mph that can only be heard if the HVAC unit is off while the car is on rough pavement.
 

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It seems that Japanese manufacturers rarely offer any rebates or big discounts when you compare to American companies like Ford, Chevy, Dodge. In my opinion you get more with the Japanese manufactures for the specific price point (YMMV). With the Accord there are very few, if any options available. Try building a Dodge Charger. You will rack up thousands in options for equipment that is standard on the Accord.
 

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It seems that Japanese manufacturers rarely offer any rebates or big discounts when you compare to American companies like Ford, Chevy, Dodge. In my opinion you get more with the Japanese manufactures for the specific price point (YMMV). With the Accord there are very few, if any options available. Try building a Dodge Charger. You will rack up thousands in options for equipment that is standard on the Accord.
Funny you say that, I have a pretty loaded 2016 Charger RT. You are right that it doesn’t take long to get a Charger RT to 40K+. The difference that you’ll get s boatload off the MSRP. That 40K Charger will turn out to be about 33-34K and have everything the Accord Touring has minus active dampers. Doesn’t really matter though, they attract somewhat different buyers that rarely seem to cross shop the two.
 

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The 2.0 Sport is built on the EX platform and shares all of the EX features. Honda's website does not make that very clear and it is a bit confusing.
The 2.0 Sport does not have the upgraded 450 watt sound system, navigation, auto rear view mirror, turn indicators in mirrors, active grillE shutters, full leather or memory drivers seat. The sound system is the main reason I went with the 2.0 EX-L the seat memory and other extras were icing in the cake to me.
 

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The 2.0 Sport does not have the upgraded 450 watt sound system, navigation, auto rear view mirror, turn indicators in mirrors, active grillE shutters, full leather or memory drivers seat. The sound system is the main reason I went with the 2.0 EX-L the seat memory and other extras were icing in the cake to me.
The 2.0 EX-L unfortunately does not come with a manual transmission. The other things you mention would be nice to have, especially the upgraded sound system. Most can actually be added to the 2.0 Sport after market. No manual transmission is a non-starter for many of us. The 2.0 Sport is an amazing car with the 6 speed. So glad Honda still offers the Accord with a manual transmission.
 

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The 2.0 Sport does not have the upgraded 450 watt sound system, navigation, auto rear view mirror, turn indicators in mirrors, active grillE shutters, full leather or memory drivers seat. The sound system is the main reason I went with the 2.0 EX-L the seat memory and other extras were icing in the cake to me.
I thought most of those features were only available on the touring? The active from shutters are a hybrid only feature unless I'm mistaken.
 

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I thought most of those features were only available on the touring? The active from shutters are a hybrid only feature unless I'm mistaken.
Correct, the shutters are a hybrid only thing. The rest of the stuff can be had on an EX-L, except navigation unless you get the EX-L with Navi. Touring adds the things like cooled seats, hud, wireless charging, heated rear seats, parking sensors, adaptive suspension.
 

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This is the frustration I face currently. It shouldn’t be a mystery to find out beforehand how much a particular car is going for. I was on the phone with one of the sales manager the other day. We started out emailing, telling me about a “Clearance Event” they were holding last weekend. He kept circling around my questions of pricing so I decided to call him. When I requested he tell me the price for the car I wanted, he kept insisting I come in to do a test drive and that he can’t give me a price unless I go in. I told him I will only go in if I can get the price upfront, explaining to him that I have very limited free time and don’t want to waste time taking a drive there only to find that the price is too high. He wouldn’t budge on his stance. Oh well.
If you have costco membership, I found it helpful to get the OTD price from dealership with little to none communication at all. It might be worthwhile to get the trial membership just for their auto program.
 

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2020 would ostensibly have some bug fixes implemented, wrinkles in the manufacturing process and quality control mostly ironed out. Saving a few hundos is not worth being a guinea pig to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
If you have costco membership, I found it helpful to get the OTD price from dealership with little to none communication at all. It might be worthwhile to get the trial membership just for their auto program.
I actually do have a Costco membership. I’ll look into it. Thank you!

2020 would ostensibly have some bug fixes implemented, wrinkles in the manufacturing process and quality control mostly ironed out. Saving a few hundos is not worth being a guinea pig to me.
True that! That’s one of the main reasons why I want to go with the 2020’s. However, I’m curious to see what the 2022’s look like. I’ve waited this long, maybe I’ll hold off just to see.
 

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This is the frustration I face currently. It shouldn’t be a mystery to find out beforehand how much a particular car is going for. I was on the phone with one of the sales manager the other day. We started out emailing, telling me about a “Clearance Event” they were holding last weekend. He kept circling around my questions of pricing so I decided to call him. When I requested he tell me the price for the car I wanted, he kept insisting I come in to do a test drive and that he can’t give me a price unless I go in. I told him I will only go in if I can get the price upfront, explaining to him that I have very limited free time and don’t want to waste time taking a drive there only to find that the price is too high. He wouldn’t budge on his stance. Oh well.
You will love this article on Jalopnik
Most Ridiculous Reasons Why Dealers Will Refuse to Send Price Quotes
 

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port & polish everything
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2020 would ostensibly have some bug fixes implemented, wrinkles in the manufacturing process and quality control mostly ironed out. Saving a few hundos is not worth being a guinea pig to me.
That's not necessarily true, anything that drives complaints, warranty costs, safety or lawsuits, the factory is going to fix right away, they will not wait a model year for claims to snowball. That's why for recalls and TSBs, there is always an affected VIN range listed, not just model year.
 
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