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2017 Honda Accord, around 40k miles.

When getting of a highway and slowing down, car front and brake pedal vibrates.

Mechanic says need to change pads and rotors in the front.
Cost $300

What do you say?
 

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40k sounds low for new rotors. with that said, I just bought pads and rotors for my wife's 16 Accord with 67k miles. Doing them myself and parts were about $140 with shipping.
 

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It also can be tires with incorrect tire pressure and unbalanced. It could be a combo of tires unbalanced and front rotors warped.

Is the 300 just for the front? If so, then might as well have dealer do it. Better parts will be used and warranty given.

Else do it yourself and save big.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
He also suggested me to change tires. $125 per tire. Is it a good price?




525239
 

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I have a 2016 accord coupe and I changed out the front and rear pads & rotors a couple of weeks ago. All parts from autozone cost me about $350 (ceramic pads and rotors coated with something).

my car has around 33k and they were the original parts (I got the car new in 2016).

I was getting the same situation as you,steering wheel shakes when braking.
I was getting the same situation as you,steering wheel shakes when braking.
 
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Most likely the rotors. This is a common problem with the accord. One of my only complaints. Try a search and you'll see multiple results.

Don't use the OEM rotors or it'll just happen again.
 

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2017 Honda Accord, around 40k miles.

When getting of a highway and slowing down, car front and brake pedal vibrates.

Mechanic says need to change pads and rotors in the front.
Cost $300

What do you say?
They've got "glazing" on them..it's common with front rotors for a lot of Hondas.
You can change them out for cheaper than the cost of resurfacing them, in many instances.
And yes, get the pads replaced, too.
 

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I had this happen with half way worn pads. I was curious what would make it go away so I didn’t mind doing the job twice. I had the rotors turned, cleaned and lubed the slide pins and reinstalled the old pads. Vibration went away and the TPMS light that had been coming on with even tire pressure and tread life went away
 

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I had this happen with half way worn pads. I was curious what would make it go away so I didn’t mind doing the job twice. I had the rotors turned, cleaned and lubed the slide pins and reinstalled the old pads. Vibration went away and the TPMS light that had been coming on with even tire pressure and tread life went away
This is the typical pre-replacement process.
 

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2017 Honda Accord, around 40k miles.

When getting of a highway and slowing down, car front and brake pedal vibrates.

Mechanic says need to change pads and rotors in the front.
Cost $300

What do you say?
Fair price for having it professionally done. You could get Centric rotors on Rock Auto (daily driver grade) and ceramic pads for the whole car for under $200 if you have about 2 hours to do it yourself. I did it in 2016 for my 2014 LX
525309


40k sounds low for new rotors. with that said, I just bought pads and rotors for my wife's 16 Accord with 67k miles. Doing them myself and parts were about $140 with shipping.
My OEM 9th gen rotors did this starting at 25k, the autozone replacements went on at 35k and shook around 50 and were replaced with Centric at 75k when I got tired of it.
 

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BE sure to give updates on those Centrics. I had the dealer resurface the orginal rears and replace the pads. Then I did the fronts with centric a few thousand miles later. I noticed chattering on very heavy braking, such as surprise yellow lights at 65 MPH. So I ripped out the dealer rears and replaced with the same Centirc rotors and pads as I put in the front. I still have the chattering/pulsation on heavy braking. Perfect under normal braking just problems with severe braking.

Any suggestions?
 

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BE sure to give updates on those Centrics. I had the dealer resurface the orginal rears and replace the pads. Then I did the fronts with centric a few thousand miles later. I noticed chattering on very heavy braking, such as surprise yellow lights at 65 MPH. So I ripped out the dealer rears and replaced with the same Centirc rotors and pads as I put in the front. I still have the chattering/pulsation on heavy braking. Perfect under normal braking just problems with severe braking.

Any suggestions?
They made it to 152k with no discernible vibration, then I totaled the car. I was very vigilant about the break-in period, never resting on hot brakes even at the end. I'm not sure why you'd still have pulsation with the new ones.
 

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This will be my first time doing the brakes on the accord. Is it hard to get the retaining screws off to get the rotors off? I thought i've read they are seized on pretty good. 65K miles in Ohio weather.
 

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This will be my first time doing the brakes on the accord. Is it hard to get the retaining screws off to get the rotors off? I thought i've read they are seized on pretty good. 65K miles in Ohio weather.
Nothing a breaker bar won't handle. The rear ones you'll need to be creative with top bolt. It wasn't to my liking of using a box end wrenches on it, but I suppose it'll do the job after reefing on it a bit.
 

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This will be my first time doing the brakes on the accord. Is it hard to get the retaining screws off to get the rotors off? I thought i've read they are seized on pretty good. 65K miles in Ohio weather.
They may well be seized, or quite difficult to remove at a minimum. Prior to buying one of these, which works great by the way (Vessel 125943 908 P3x150 Impacta Screwdriver: Amazon.ca: Tools & Home Improvement), I used a punch and hammer, chipping away at the head from a sharp angle if you know what I mean. I always got them off that way but the tool, or equivalent, is great. Depending on what you use, be mindful as they're easy to strip; they're not a philips, but JIS.
 

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This will be my first time doing the brakes on the accord. Is it hard to get the retaining screws off to get the rotors off? I thought i've read they are seized on pretty good. 65K miles in Ohio weather.
Buy a good impact tool with a JIS screwdriver bit.
I never had an issue when properly equipped with that setup.
 

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They made it to 152k with no discernible vibration, then I totaled the car. I was very vigilant about the break-in period, never resting on hot brakes even at the end. I'm not sure why you'd still have pulsation with the new ones.
Most of the time there is no pulsation whatsoever. The Centrics seem to be a great bargain from Rock Auto. It is just under very heavy braking. I am thinking there may be something else wearing out.
 
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