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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick question and hopefully a quick answer 'cause I have a dealer appointment at 2:20.

The other day I put H9 bulbs in the car, replacing the stock H11s. It went well, right through testing the new lights, but the next morning the battery was dead. I removed it and charged it overnight and it had enough charge to start the car, but all kinds of lights are on on the panel, (EPS, VSA, TPMS, LDW, FCW, ABS and BRAKE, and the TPMS failed to start cal.).

So, off to the dealer I go. Should I switch back to the H11s before I take it in? Any other advice on this situation, like how to reset the warning light systems in the future if I remove the battery?

I'll update when I get home.
 

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When in doubt, always go back to stock to avoid them blaming it on your aftermarket parts and voiding the warranty.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Done. Thanks for the advice. Will update on what the dealer comes up with.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So, I went to the dealer and they put the car on their machine and said they were getting the required voltage and CCA out of the battery, but near as I can tell they didn't test the alternator with the engine running, or maybe they did, IDK. I do know that after charging the battery overnight and driving about 60 miles round trip to the dealer, the little green eye on the battery is still not green. It is dark. So I told the dealer I consider the battery to be trashed. I said a completely dead battery in sub-zero temps is not going to survive long-term. They agreed to put in a new battery...tomorrow since they already went through 4 today.

So, I get a new battery, but that doesn't explain what made it go down in the first place. I strongly suspect the alternator because, as I told the dealer, driving there at cruising highway speed (60) my ScanGage voltage read 12.1-12.2 consistently. The only time it got up to 14 volts was when I was decelerating. According to the ScanGage explanation "Normal running battery voltage is between 13 &15. When the engine is off it should be between 11 &13...Voltages below 13 when the vehicle is running could indicate poor charging of the battery. Voltage below 11 when the engine is off could indicate a low battery charge or a shorted battery cell." I just checked the voltage and it is at 12.3, engine off, so that is good, but how long will that hold, I wonder.

What do you all think of this? Marginal alternator?
 

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I doubt the H9s caused your battery to drain. I have the Philips version and my battery is running as it should even after installing the bulbs.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I suspect you are correct. At first I though crap did I do something wrong. You know wahat they say about coincidences. And I only turned the H9s on twice for about 10 secs. each and then let the car sit overnight. I won't be surprised to drain the brand new battery given my suspicion of the alternator. In any case, I get to try it tonight running the headlights, 'cause I have to go to town after dark. Leaving the H11s in for now 'cause it's back to the dealer tomorrow.
 

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Regarding running voltage, I have a dash camera that records the voltage on the bottom of the video along with speed date and time. I noticed during the summer that the voltage would jump between 12 and 14 volts. I think that might be caused by the AC and if you have auto climate control turned on without the AC forced off then the voltage might be low.


Here is the video

 

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The low voltage and fluctuating voltage while driving is due to the ELD system which varies the alternator output, depending on conditions, to save fuel. It's normal for this car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the info Gearhead. I tend to think that too. When I drove to town with the headlights on last night (before fully dark), the voltage was reading 14. When I turned the lights off it dropped down to just above 12. Anyway, I'm off today to get my new battery at the dealer if they get it in. Looked at the green eye when I got home last night. It wasn't green. It was dark.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
I'm waiting until I get done taking it to the dealer for the battery. Then I'll put the H9s back in and see how they are at night. It really was not too much effort to mod them. Took off the extra tab with an Exacto knife and the extra little bit of mounting lug with tin snips and they fit right in the hole.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Regarding running voltage, I have a dash camera that records the voltage on the bottom of the video along with speed date and time. I noticed during the summer that the voltage would jump between 12 and 14 volts. I think that might be caused by the AC and if you have auto climate control turned on without the AC forced off then the voltage might be low.


Here is the video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zz7NGqsCcUo
That's a pretty cool video. What kind of dash cam? I've been thinking of getting a GoPro.
 

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The low voltage and fluctuating voltage while driving is due to the ELD system which varies the alternator output, depending on conditions, to save fuel. It's normal for this car.
Halogen lamp output will vary with system voltage. If you want to eliminate the varying light output associated with the ELD system you need to go with HIDs.
 

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It really was not too much effort to mod them. Took off the extra tab with an Exacto knife and the extra little bit of mounting lug with tin snips and they fit right in the hole.
Just wondering if performance is significant enough to bother. Pls report back.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Will do, but there are plenty of other threads and posts from folks who have put in H9s. Most say it is the most beneficial mod for the money that you can do.
 

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So, I get a new battery, but that doesn't explain what made it go down in the first place. I strongly suspect the alternator because, as I told the dealer, driving there at cruising highway speed (60) my ScanGage voltage read 12.1-12.2 consistently. The only time it got up to 14 volts was when I was decelerating. According to the ScanGage explanation "Normal running battery voltage is between 13 &15. When the engine is off it should be between 11 &13...Voltages below 13 when the vehicle is running could indicate poor charging of the battery. Voltage below 11 when the engine is off could indicate a low battery charge or a shorted battery cell." I just checked the voltage and it is at 12.3, engine off, so that is good, but how long will that hold, I wonder.

What do you all think of this? Marginal alternator?

Nothing wrong with the alternator. operating as designed.

This is a normal characteristic and is caused by variations in the electrical system created by the onboard computer. The computer controls the output of the electrical charging system to improve fuel economy and minimize vehicle vibration.

While the engine is at idle, the computer monitors the electrical usage of the car and then controls the electrical charging system so that it charges just enough to keep up with demand. This change reduces the load on the engine and, in turn, increases fuel economy and reduces vehicle vibration. As electrical accessories turn on and off, the computer changes the rate of electrical charge in response to the changes in demand for electricity. As the computer responds to the addition of electrical load, you may notice a momentary dimming of the lights. For example, the headlights or instrument panel lights may briefly dim as the air conditioning cycles on.

http://automobiles.honda.com/information/frequently-asked-questions.aspx?Question=15
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Yesterday I finally got the new battery. It's the aftermarket kind that dealers sell with white and blue plastic wrap. It also doesn't have the "eye" that the original one did. OK with me. One less thing for me to look at and worry about. As long as the battery works and lasts I'll be happy.

Also re-installed the H9s. Drove it last night and they do seem brighter. That's a real plus for me living in deer country central.

Funny thing, when I went to re-install the H9s I noticed a flat-blade screw driver I guess I had left in there when I previously switched them out. Wouldn't ya know when I went to grab it I fumbled and it slipped way down to where it was almost impossible to even touch. Took me about half an hour with a strong magnet, mechanical fingers and scraped hands to finally get it out. Always inventory your tools when you're done with a job!!
 

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I replaced a brake light and broke a socket (not knowing at the time). When I tried to remove the bulb, it fell into the housing. It took my friend and I about 30 minutes to fish it out.

Edit: I guess I jinxed myself since my brake light wasn't fully lit and had to pull it out of the socket. That is when my led bulb fell back into the housing... Ahhhh!!?

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