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I just finished upgrading the speakers in my 2018 EX-L. Went with the same Kicker others referenced in this thread. I wired it to 2 ohms. It is a huge improvement over the existing stock subwoofer. The bass is deeper and much tighter. It bumps hard enough to vibrate the front seats on hard hitting songs. And, I didn’t lose any trunk space. I will say that is was definitely a pain to install because new holes had to be drilled. In total, it took me about 5 hours to install subwoofer and deck speakers. I haven’t put it all back together yet because I still need to add Noico this weekend. I’m a little concerned about the deck rattling when I reinstall it.

For the speakers, in the back deck I went with two way: Infinity REF-6532ex. For the front I went with the matching components: Infinity Reference REF-6530cx. I left the center speaker stock. The Infinitys are “true” 4 ohm; they are rated as 3 ohm, but the speaker wiring makes it 4 ohm. At least that’s what Inifinity is selling. Supposedly they’re compatible with all stock receivers and amps. Time will tell. Because these are high sensitivity (93 db) the stock amp drives these nicely. They are loud enough that I seldom turn up the volume beyond 20 (halfway) so the distortion from the stock amp is minimal, at least I don’t notice anything. Also, they are loud enough that they do a good job of covering up the center speaker. I was worried about this initially, but I really can’t hear the center under normal listening. The mid and highs are so much cleaner than stock. It is amazing how much better these sound. I think with this setup this is all I could expect from a premium stock system.

Also, before upgrading my speakers I disconnected my ANC. That improved the sound quite a bit, but the mods were still muddy and the highs were just too harsh. Not any longer. I am extremely pleased with how this turned out. At retail price ($360) this is a no brainer. I would do it again in a heartbeat. I actually got mine on the Black Friday sale from crutchfield so I only paid $210 total. I haven’t reconnected my ANC yet. Not sure if I will.

I only have one regret in the process. I mounted my crossover inside the front doors with heavy duty Velcro. In retrospect, I wish I would have gone to the extra trouble to mount them inside the car. These doors take in a lot of water when it rains. Not sure how long the crossover is going to last under those condition. If I decide to later pull the doors apart to install Noico, I will move the crossover. I didn’t do it originally because I didn’t want to have to deal with pulling speaker wire through the door panel into the cabin.

If you’re on the fence about upgrading your speakers, just do it. Go with the Infinitys. For the cost and the amount of effort, this upgrade Is highly recommended. No regrets!
 

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So I finished my install today. I ended up returning the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 and got the Kicker 44CWCD84 as that’s a 4 ohm duel voice coil that I was able to wire to 2 ohm to match the Touring Amp. With the previous modifications I made to some of the metal I was able to just drop in the Kicker Subwoofer as well. I ended up getting a right angle attachment for my impact driver so that I could drill in new holes to put in the subwoofer. Before I dropped in the subwoofer, I put some foam in between the metal deck to the sub and then drilled / screwed the Subwoofer in. I just wired it using the red and black wires that were connected to the factory subwoofer and then wired the subwoofer to 2 ohm based on the instructions included with the sub. I’m very happy with the sound of it, and for now, fine with not having an amp provide it additional power.

From the pictures which I took about half way through, I put a boat load of sound deading material on the deck. I also put the some additional foam on top of the subwoofer so that it buffer it from the rear deck lid.

Hope this helps for anyone thinking about doing the same thing.
Thanks for the pictures brbruce; what were the modifications were needed to drop in the 8 inch kicker? I ask since you mentioned making modifications for another sub. I want to replace my factory sub as well and would like to know I have the tools to perform the install.
 

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PhaMatic, you will need to use a dremel with a metal cutting disk to trim the current speaker hole. It’s not currently round. At the front of the cutout, it is flat across. Just need to trim about 1/4 - 1/2” to make the cutout more round. Once you do this the sub will drop in flush. That was actually the easy part (once you mentally get past the thought of cutting into your deck). The more difficult part was drilling the holes for the screws. I didn’t have a right angle attachment, so I made a template from a piece of notebook paper and taped it underneath the deck panel and drilled up from inside the trunk.

Previous comment should say 1/4 - 1/2 inch. Forum does not like single or double quote apparently.
 

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I ordered the Kicker 44CWCD84 sub woofer today; expecting it to arrive in a couple days. I'm excited!! what material did you use between the sub and rear deck? and where did you get the material?

Also, @mayodaddy, you mention disconnecting the ANC improved the sound... can you elaborate? (more punch from the front speakers?) I've been curious about this for quite a while and coming from someone that is experience with audio... your feedback is important.

I’m in the process of installing the factory sub with the Kicker 8 inch sub. My Dremel room ran out of barriers, charging now. As for drilling holes to secure the new sub.. did you use only screws... or did you use nuts or washers too?
 

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I'm curious about this, too. As a sound neophyte, I trusted these posts and ordered the Infinitis for the front doors, and the Kicker subwoofer, from Crutchfield. But the advisor there said I really shouldn't expect much of an improvement without a separate amplifier for the sub. I'm really not interested in bouncing the car with bass, I just want a cleaner sound. So I'm interested in getting your opinion on how much it improves.

Also, I'm just as curious what is lost in road-noise reduction by disconnecting the ANC, as with what is gained in bass. I've got the Hybrid, so the car is very quiet and I don't want to lose that.
 

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I’m still in the process of the install.. I had to purchase a right angle drill to secure the kicker sub. I am taking pictures of my install process to share with this community. It is definitely not a drop in replacement. It does require some modifications.

I will give you my opinion within the next day or two.

I'm curious about this, too. As a sound neophyte, I trusted these posts and ordered the Infinitis for the front doors, and the Kicker subwoofer, from Crutchfield. But the advisor there said I really shouldn't expect much of an improvement without a separate amplifier for the sub. I'm really not interested in bouncing the car with bass, I just want a cleaner sound. So I'm interested in getting your opinion on how much it improves.

Also, I'm just as curious what is lost in road-noise reduction by disconnecting the ANC, as with what is gained in bass. I've got the Hybrid, so the car is very quiet and I don't want to lose that.
Hey, the sub woofer (Kicker 44CWCD84) has been installed for a few days; my personal opinion is, it make a huge difference (no amp, just stock head unit... I have the touring model). The Kicker adds a deeper bass, it makes music more enjoyable to listen too. Adding the sub woofer itself, I would be satisfy with the sound output. However, I am changing out the front and rear speakers too.

Note; installing the sub required me to create a larger opening for the sub to drop in. And, I had to drill new holes to secure the sub.
 

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Hey All -
So in regards to the socks up in the back deck, this video is for a 2006, but the hole is very similar and apparently is an issue among a lot of accords. So there are four holes up by around where the trunk light is, you need to get up in there to stuff socks, or you could use anything really, but socks worked well. To keep the plastic from the rear deck from rattling.

 

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Hi All. Following this thread. I purchased the kicker sub as well. Where can I find instructions for removing the rear deck?

Hey, the sub woofer (Kicker 44CWCD84) has been installed for a few days; my personal opinion is, it make a huge difference (no amp, just stock head unit... I have the touring model). The Kicker adds a deeper bass, it makes music more enjoyable to listen too. Adding the sub woofer itself, I would be satisfy with the sound output. However, I am changing out the front and rear speakers too.

Note; installing the sub required me to create a larger opening for the sub to drop in. And, I had to drill new holes to secure the sub.
Thanks phaMatic, are you able to upload the pictures you took?
 

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It is very easy to disconnect the ANC — it takes less than 10 minutes. With or without a speaker replacement, I recommend trying it to see if you like it better without ANC. It doesn’t provide more punch from the speakers. Rather, it makes the sound dull. It’s hard to explain, but if you’ve ever used noise cancelling headphones, that’s the best way to describe it. It’s like it fills your hearing senses — like your ears are stopped up. I still haven’t reconnected mine.

For sound deadening material, are used Noico. I have used it on two different installs, and I’m happy with it. It’s pretty cheap from Amazon – $20 for 10 sqft, which is plenty for the Accord’s back deck. I still need to stuff some socks, because there is a certain frequency that still rattles the deck. To install the sub, I just use the extra screws that came with the infinity speakers.

The Crutchfield advisor also told me the subwoofer wouldn’t help without adding an amp. He was wrong – I’m really glad I didn’t listen to him. I did break in the sub with the home receiver prior to installing. I figured if it was going to be under powered by the stock amp, I wanted to get it as loose as possible for immediate listening enjoyment. Here’s the process I used. I downloaded an app that can produce a sine sweep. I found one for free on android; but I couldn’t find one for less than $3 on iphone. I connected the sub to one of the channels on the receiver. I connected the phone to the CD in on the receiver using a headphone to RCA splitter. I then ran a 10 second sign sweep from 40 Hz to 70 hurts. Normally you would run a 30 Hz to 60 Hz sweep, but this sub only supports down to 40, so I adjusted accordingly. Start the volume about midway. You will probably be barely able to hear the sound from the sub and it will only move the cone slightly. After about 4 to 6 hours, increase the volume by about 5 dB. Keep doing this until the volume is loud enough to work the sub pretty well but not loud enough to bottom it out or pop it. Go slowly, expected to take about 30 hours. If you don’t do this, the sub will eventually break in by running it in your car. I then ran a 10 second sign sweep from 40 Hz to 70 hurts. Normally you would run a 30 Hz to 60 Hz sweep, but this sub only supports down to 40, so I adjusted accordingly. Start the volume about midway. You will probably be barely able to hear the sound from the sub and it will only move the cone slightly. After about 4 to 6 hours, increase the volume by about 5 dB. Keep doing this until the volume is loud enough to really work the sub, but not loud enough for it to bottom it out or pop it. Go slowly, expected to take about 30 hours. If you don’t do this, the sub will eventually break in naturally by running it in your car, but this gets it there much faster. I used the same process for a sub in my truck and was happy with the results.

I am still super pleased with this upgrade. My brother has the exact same car as I do. After I finished installing my speakers, we spent about an hour comparing the stereos of both cars. We listened to a variety of music: rap, country, rock, pop, jazz, blues. It is not a placebo effect, comparing them side-by-side, it is very easy to hear how much better the Infinitys and kicker sound. It’s not going to rattle the trunk like a couple of boxed 12 inch subs would, but it is better than any stock premium sound system I’ve ever heard.
 

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How much material did you have to remove to get the sub in? I am interested in doing this, but I'm second guessing. thought of cutting into the rear deck.
 

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Dremel only. I used the rotating blade attachment and then an aluminum oxide grinding stone attachment to smooth the edges.

How much material did you have to remove to get the sub in? I am interested in doing this, but I'm second guessing. thought of cutting into the rear deck.
I was nervous at first too.. and from all the threads I've read, I wasn't convince changing the sub woofer was worth the time, money and risk. The audio was just so flat, not lively and lacking range... I just went for it. No regrets. Sound is amazing. I removed about 1/4 inch in those two areas I circled. There is no compromise to the rear deck by doing this if that is what you're worried about.

The hardest part of the install was putting holes in the rear deck to secure the Kicker sub woofer. I highly recommend a right angle drill for that. There are a number of us who have perform this install; I have pictures and can provide my knowledge with the install if you need it.
 

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I'm in the process of installing the Kicker sub in my HAH Touring. But if all works out, I may have a better way to do so, that requires no cutting. Drilling for the screws, yes. Cutting the tabs, no.

The first picture below shows the OEM deck. There are three pieces of sheet metal in the picture: the lower one supports the back of the seats, the middle one is the main part of the deck, and the upper one is a bracket for the OEM subwoofer.

Also in the picture is the cardboard template from the Kicker box, and the duct tape I used to hold it in the opening while I used a blue Sharpie to mark what had to be cut to match the template. Note that the new sub will drop down to the middle level if those tabs are cut, but the OEM mounts to the upper level with four tabs that stick out about an inch from the 8" circle of the OEM sub.

Cutting those off will also cut through the weld points for the two parts of the actual deck. I'm not sure if the others who did this actually cut through it; but my concern is that if I compromise the weld, there will be rattle. So I started wondering about other ways.

The second picture shows (in addition to my grandson and my avatar) a side view of the OEM (left) and Kicker (right) subs. I tried to align the parts that did/will actually contact sheet metal at the same level; but the Kicker will drop about 1/4" since it mounts lower. I indicated about where that tab will go on both. Due to the shape of the cone and the higher mounting level, the OEM clears it easily. The Kicker does not.

But if I can raise the Kicker sub from the middle level - and there appears to be a good 3/4" available - it will. Since I bought a sheet of Dynamat to deaden the rattle like brbruce0 did (in post #15), I figure I can put a couple of layers under it, and not have to cut the tabs off. I talked to the tech support at Crutchfield, and they said that such mounting is the exact purpose of Dynamat, although it is to stop vibration and not actually raise the level. I'm not sure what multiple layers will do.

So, I'm fishing for opinions on this fix. It's happening tomorrow unless I hear a good reason to not do it, since I have both side sot the 2-car garage over the weekend.
 

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I thought initially that would work but on the chance that the Dynamat loses density (from the heat, etc.) - causing the speaker to drop a little and make contact with the surrounding metal - I'd probably look for a solid spacer.

In fact, I found this on Amazon - 7 1/8" inner diameter and 3/4" thickness:



If the inner diameter is too small, you could make one cut and bend it outward to fit.

This might be the solution I'm looking for myself. Thanks for the useful photos that show how it's possible.

Here's the Amazon link:


.
 

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I thought initially that would work but on the chance that the Dynamat loses density (from the heat, etc.) - causing the speaker to drop a little and make contact with the surrounding metal - I'd probably look for a solid spacer.

In fact, I found this on Amazon - 7 1/8" inner diameter and 3/4" thickness:
I'm not sure how easy its 8 1/2" outer diameter will be to mount - see picture. As to the density - mounting speakers that way is what it is supposed to do. I'm more worried about how it works in layers, than holding shape.
 

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Have you thought about mounting the sub under the deck instead of into the deck? You might just need to align the hole with the center of the sub, then mark your mounting holes and drill them. Not sure about clearance under the deck though...
 

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Have you thought about mounting the sub under the deck instead of into the deck? You might just need to align the hole with the center of the sub, then mark your mounting holes and drill them. Not sure about clearance under the deck though...
I really don't want to take up the space, and the sub itself weighs nearly 6 pounds. That's a lot to support with just screws.

But I found that ;layering didn't work as I had hoped. So I went ahead and cut, but just the bottom layer of sheet metal (to match the middle). That way I stayed away from the weld spots.
 
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