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I really don't want to take up the space, and the sub itself weighs nearly 6 pounds. That's a lot to support with just screws.

But I found that ;layering didn't work as I had hoped. So I went ahead and cut, but just the bottom layer of sheet metal (to match the middle). That way I stayed away from the weld spots.
So the sub fit ok just by cutting the lower portion flush with the middle? I had thoughts to cut a ring from mdf to fit between the sub and the deck to ease with installation.

I was nervous at first too.. and from all the threads I've read, I wasn't convince changing the sub woofer was worth the time, money and risk. The audio was just so flat, not lively and lacking range... I just went for it. No regrets. Sound is amazing. I removed about 1/4 inch in those two areas I circled. There is no compromise to the rear deck by doing this if that is what you're worried about.

The hardest part of the install was putting holes in the rear deck to secure the Kicker sub woofer. I highly recommend a right angle drill for that. There are a number of us who have perform this install; I have pictures and can provide my knowledge with the install if you need it.
Much appreciated. I'm placing the order now for the sub and the other rear deck speakers. I did the front today and can already tell a difference.
 

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I disconnected the ANC module today... I haven't drove around much since; no feedback if audio improved. I would like to add; the sounds range between 50 to 40Hz is still low (near muted).. and picks up again from 40 to 30Hz... just saying disconnecting the ANC would disable the active noise cancelling would NOT bring back the 40 to 50Hz it reserves for noise cancellation (from my understanding, uses the 40 to 50 Hz sound waves to cancel out road noise). In case anyone was wondering.
 

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To those who've installed the Kicker and aftermarket 6.5s, would you estimate audio improvement to be, say, 20% or more?
 

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So the sub fit ok just by cutting the lower portion flush with the middle? I had thoughts to cut a ring from mdf to fit between the sub and the deck to ease with installation.
I had to rotate it until what was left of the tabs aligned with the holes in the subwoofer's bracket. But yes, it fit. I had also debated cannibalizing the OEM sub to get its mounting ring, but didn't think I'd be able to do do so cleanly enough to get a good mount.
 

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So I got the sub installed. Same kicker as everyone else.

My impression is much like others that have posted. Much cleaner and tighter bass. A noticeable improvement over the stock sub even on the stock amp.

I didn't end up cutting the metal, just bending it down and away. I put sound deadener on the area round the opening and a strip of foam with tape. I also ended up drilling the first whole from underneath and then a couple others with the sub in. I used toggle bolts to secure it to the deck. With three spots secured I noticed that the sub wouldn't move, but it would somewhat shake away from the deck and didn't sound as good as when I pushed the other side down. So, I ended up drilling a fourth hole and its sounds better. Took about 5 hours and I still have to put the c-pillar trim back on.

Don't forget to plug the connectors in before securing the rear deck.

There is still a huge rattle coming from where the plastic housing of the rear light meets the window. Any song with a good bass will rattle the plastic against the window and it sounds awful. I put a microfiber towel in between and the rattle went away, but it looks like crap. Any ideas on how to fix this??

Thanks
 

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I'm installing an Alpine 250w mono amp in the trunk of my 18 Accord for a new Kicker 8" subwoofer and need 12vdc. I've seen power from the interior fuse block using a Littelfuse Add-A-Circuit adaptor. Littlefuse Add-A-Circuit adaptor is rated at 10A max, yet most if not all power amps and DSP require a much higher fuse rating. Using a Littelfuse Add-A-Circuit
I'm considering running my power cable to the engine bay and connect to the main input on the main fuse block. There is no reliable (non corroding) place on the battery except the clamping bolt that I can see.
Any advice?
 

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Rear deck improvements include:
Dynamat
JBL Club 6500c woofer and tweeter
Alpine MRV M250 (hanging under deck in trunk)

Same JBL components in front doors
 

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Don’t have an answer here but curious how this works out. I’m swapping out all stock speakers over the next week or two and was thinking my next step was to add a spare tire mount sub (cerwin Vega), but I’d be curious how the system sounds with just more power to the 8”... that’s what you’re doing right, powering the 8” sub (kicker) in the deck, not adding a box and 8”...

Keep us updated...


I'm installing an Alpine 250w mono amp in the trunk of my 18 Accord for a new Kicker 8" subwoofer and need 12vdc. I've seen power from the interior fuse block using a Littelfuse Add-A-Circuit adaptor. Littlefuse Add-A-Circuit adaptor is rated at 10A max, yet most if not all power amps and DSP require a much higher fuse rating. Using a Littelfuse Add-A-Circuit

I'm considering running my power cable to the engine bay and connect to the main input on the main fuse block. There is no reliable (non corroding) place on the battery except the clamping bolt that I can see.

Any advice?





Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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I have an 18 EXL 2.0 and I see people swapping the sub with an 8 inch. I was going to replace it with a 6.5” kicker, but an 8” would be better.
Is the existing setup enough power for a replacement sub and the other components on the rear deck? I was told the existing mids and tweeters are powered directly from an amp separately. Is this correct? Can I replace with a component set which has a crossover?

Please help
 

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I've got an EXL hybrid.

The Kicker 8" was a good fit, i had to drill some screws into the rear deck as the screws dont line up, but pretty easy install (grab a right angle bit if you dont have one). Wire it 2ohm, the kicker we've used is dual voice coil and can be wired 2ohm to match the factory speaker better. You have to bend a little bit of the deck down to get the kicker sub to fit, but nothing major, took 2 minutes to modify the deck for a perfect fit.

I upgraded the door and deck speakers with components, just wire to the factory wires and dont use the crossover with the components as the signals are already modified by the factory amp, it send 10 distinct signals out, so you dont need a crossover. Again, for the woofers, get the honda brackets from crutchfield and you'[re all set, install easy, i had to drill my speakers into the brackets as the holes didn't line up, but again, easy to do...

Its worth upgrading the speakres in my view, i was able to install myself for about $250 all in for a set of RF 1675S componets and the kicker 8" sub.

I have a Cerwin Vega VPAS12ST that just got delivered that im installing next week to up the bass a bit and the 8" still is not great, gives decent sound, some low bass, but no punch at all...


I have an 18 EXL 2.0 and I see people swapping the sub with an 8 inch. I was going to replace it with a 6.5” kicker, but an 8” would be better.
Is the existing setup enough power for a replacement sub and the other components on the rear deck? I was told the existing mids and tweeters are powered directly from an amp separately. Is this correct? Can I replace with a component set which has a crossover?

Please help
 

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Does anybody have a spacer or foam they liked using for the Kicker? Mine is coming from Crutchfield this week. I could grab some Dynamat, but that didn't seem to fly upthread.
 

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Hey gang.
Installed the same Kicker as everyone else today (ordered from Crutchfield and found their master sheet instructions very helpful). Listened to a few songs and agree with everyone else. The bass is much improved. Not shaking the seats or anything, but much better than the stock sub (see the comparison photo below for how much more substantial the Kicker is). Everything went fairly smoothly: I simply bent the sheet metal down with pliers to fit the sub. I didn't have any sort of right angle adapter, so I had to make a template and drill holes up from the trunk, which was a pain. I used some leftover weather stripping foam to make a ring to mount the sub on.

So I have one question and one hint for folks doing this install.

Question: What are the plugs behind the Airbag badges on the C pillar (see the white button in the middle pic below)? I struggled to get the c-pillar out and can't quite get it back in because of these. Are they simply pop clips that I can pull out to free the c pillar? Or will I set off an airbag or blow something up if I try to remove them? This was the only thing that really slowed down the installation.

Hint: The first pick is of the clips that hold the bottom seat cushion on. The two clips aren't evenly spaced apart. You need to slide your fingers up into the bottom seat, pinch and pull out on the white clips to release the seat. It sounds like some people get around taking out the bottom cushion, but I was just following instructions and it was easy enough.

Also, I have the hybrid and it was good to see the battery pack was safely covered under a metal housing warning death to anyone that removed it. So nothing to worry about if you remove the seat cushion. I would also like to add that even with the 12V battery disconnected for an extended period, it still didn't clear my many undeleteable radio stations (SMH).

IMG_20190817_114915389.jpg IMG_20190817_153331015.jpg IMG_20190817_123246764.jpg
 

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Hey gang.
Installed the same Kicker as everyone else today (ordered from Crutchfield and found their master sheet instructions very helpful). Listened to a few songs and agree with everyone else. The bass is much improved. Not shaking the seats or anything, but much better than the stock sub (see the comparison photo below for how much more substantial the Kicker is). Everything went fairly smoothly: I simply bent the sheet metal down with pliers to fit the sub. I didn't have any sort of right angle adapter, so I had to make a template and drill holes up from the trunk, which was a pain. I used some leftover weather stripping foam to make a ring to mount the sub on.

So I have one question and one hint for folks doing this install.

Question: What are the plugs behind the Airbag badges on the C pillar (see the white button in the middle pic below)? I struggled to get the c-pillar out and can't quite get it back in because of these. Are they simply pop clips that I can pull out to free the c pillar? Or will I set off an airbag or blow something up if I try to remove them? This was the only thing that really slowed down the installation.

Hint: The first pick is of the clips that hold the bottom seat cushion on. The two clips aren't evenly spaced apart. You need to slide your fingers up into the bottom seat, pinch and pull out on the white clips to release the seat. It sounds like some people get around taking out the bottom cushion, but I was just following instructions and it was easy enough.

Also, I have the hybrid and it was good to see the battery pack was safely covered under a metal housing warning death to anyone that removed it. So nothing to worry about if you remove the seat cushion. I would also like to add that even with the 12V battery disconnected for an extended period, it still didn't clear my many undeleteable radio stations (SMH).

View attachment 515012 View attachment 515013 View attachment 515011
I have a 2019 Hybrid EX-L. I did not remove the plugs behind the Airbag badges on the C pillar and, like you, struggled a little to replace the C pillar. I have removed my rear deck to do work three times now and I learned that you have to put it back on like you are hanging a coat on a coat hook. Place the C pillar over the white button like it will sit when in place, then slide it up the front of the white button and "hook it" onto the white button and slide it down the backside in place. You have to push up and against the headliner a little but it did not seem to damage it in any way nor leave any visible signs.

I also have some recommendations based on what I learned from replacing all my speakers and sub and added an amp in my car and in my son's car. He has the same car I have. The only difference is he went bigger and better with the speakers and amp.

I second some's choice of the Infinity Reference 6.5" components in the front and in the rear deck that improved sound tremendously, even before I added my amp, albeit the tweeters can be on the bright side; I chose the lower setting on the crossover and turned the treble down and it is good now. My son installed Hertz Mille Legends 6.5" components in the front and Hertz Mille Pro 6.5" components in the rear deck, and the Legends go down to 40 Hz, which helps the bass up front a lot. The Infinity's go down to 53 Hz, and it makes me wish I had gotten the Legends, LOL. We did a good amount of sound deadening and made sure to wrap and tie down all wiring because I have found that that is a significant source of rattling; this applies to the rear deck as well.

Now, this is where I differ from what I've read about replacement 8" subwoofers where everyone is going with the Kickers. Initially, I was not going to add an amp, but after adding the Kicker wired to 2 ohms, I changed my mind because when I jammed during my 30 min. commute, my stereo system would go silent after about 20 min. I assume that the stock amp heated up and shut down. It was then that I decided that I better amp it up to avoid burning up something in my stock set up... in other words, I used it as an excuse to buy an amp, LOL.

In the meantime, my son bought the Kappa 800W 8" sub because he planned on amping up his car from the beginning. Before we got the amp installed, we had it hooked up to the stock amp for a time set at 2 ohms. It was then that I noticed a huge improvement over the Kicker sub, and I was sold. Luckily, I was still barely within the 60 day return window for Crutchfield, so I sent it back and got the Kappa 800W from Amazon. This fell right into my plan to amp up my car. But, even if you are not going to amp up your car, the Kappa 800W is by far the superior choice based on our experience in both sound quality and volume. My original thinking was the stock amp was weak so I picked the Kicker sub based the lower RMS rating, but I think the Kappa was much better because it is so much more efficient based on the specs.

Eventually, I installed an NVX VAD11005 5 channel amp and paid a shop to wire in an AudioControl LC7i. I pre-ran the RCAs and one run of 9-conductor wire. After adjusting all the settings on the amp, I am extremely happy with the results. But there is a BUT... I wish for more subwoofer, and I can get it if I turn up the sub gain enough, but then I can smell it start to heat up so I had to turn it down. I wanted to avoid a sub box in the trunk so that is not an option for me. This is where my recommendation to buy front mid-woofers that reach down to, or near to, the subwoofer frequencies like my son did with the Hertz Mille Legends. I find his system to be "good enough" meaning it really is super fine... not meaning that one would have to settle, unless you compare it to a sub box set up. FYI, the rear deck sub sounds amazing when in the back seat. I also wonder if you had a sound processor that could adjust the timing of the subwoofer so it could reach the front seats, if that would be, again, "good enough" to be extremely satisfied.

My son bought the AudioControl LC-6.1200 6-channel amp and bridged the last two channels for the sub. This amp has a "built-in LC7i" so I pre-ran two runs of the 9-conductor wire to and from the amp. He opened up my front console and mimicked the splicing of the wiring that I paid the audio shop to do. This saved him money... a lot of money. I know some of you would have liked to know how that was done, ie, wiring colors, etc., but unfortunately, I cannot find the paper upon which we wrote it all out. I thought I put it in an empty box but when I looked for it, it was nowhere to be found. It was actually confusing having to go from the stock wiring colors to the 9 conductor wire colors and back to the stock wiring towards the speakers. My son was the one who tackled this while I mounted his amp against the inside of his trunk behind the passenger brake light area so I am somewhat ignorant about that process because I was not focusing on that task.

Another recommendation to avoid rattles on the rear deck is to place adhesive felt all along the back of the rear deck plastic panel, as well as around the brake light portion. Basically, I cut 3/4" strips and straddled the edges of the panel all along the back egde. Wrap all wiring that rattles when you jiggle it and zip tie every wire you can to take up any slack. This goes for the front doors as well, as explained above. This, along with meticulous application of sound deadener to the rear deck, including wrapping around the edges of the subwoofer cut-out has resulted in 99% absence of any rattles. Only the bass-heaviest songs will rattle a very little.

Anyway, I apologize for this lengthy "reply" to a simple question, but I wanted to share my experience in one post since I had a difficult time finding info like this all in one place, and there was not a lot of info anyway.

I'll include pics of how I mounted the wood to the sheet metal for the amp, and how I mounted the tweeters on the rear panel.
 

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Here is another pic from my install. I wish I had taken more pics, but in the heat of battle, it is tough to take the time when focused on a task.
Huge thanks for reply! You don’t have any pictures with kappa installed? Sounds impressive
 

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Huge thanks for reply! You don’t have any pictures with kappa installed? Sounds impressive
I posted all the pics I have so, unfortunately, no pics of the Kappa installed, but it is a good-looking sub. I did what others did and bent the sides down to fit it in without cutting, and then applied sound deadener around the edges to seal the the sub, which it did well. A right angle drill attachment is almost a must to get the screws closest to the back windshield pre-drilled and fastened.
 

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Would you share this thread? I replaced the sub and the rattle is driving me nuts. I tried stuffing rags here and there
I found on mine since the dealer couldn't fix the problem by installing "ept foam tape under the rear deck cover. I actually fixed mine in 5 minutes by doing the following:

1. make sure radio is playing, have subwoofer turned up fully, bass adjusted down 3 clicks from maximum and a good song without 'super bass' in it
2. when rattle starts, listen from the back seat and push down on the rear deck cover to see where the rattle is coming from and stops when you push down
3. I used "plastic shopping bags" as you can feed them into the gap in the metal rear deck shelf from underneath, pushing them in by hand until I could not push in anymore and did a retest of the area - most of my rattle came from the driver side rear close to the rear window and the curved part of the left rear sail panel to the back window lower section.

no more rattles on any songs unless I get a little overzealous ....
 

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So I finished my install today. I ended up returning the Pioneer TS-SW2002D2 and got the Kicker 44CWCD84 as that’s a 4 ohm duel voice coil that I was able to wire to 2 ohm to match the Touring Amp. With the previous modifications I made to some of the metal I was able to just drop in the Kicker Subwoofer as well. I ended up getting a right angle attachment for my impact driver so that I could drill in new holes to put in the subwoofer. Before I dropped in the subwoofer, I put some foam in between the metal deck to the sub and then drilled / screwed the Subwoofer in. I just wired it using the red and black wires that were connected to the factory subwoofer and then wired the subwoofer to 2 ohm based on the instructions included with the sub. I’m very happy with the sound of it, and for now, fine with not having an amp provide it additional power.

From the pictures which I took about half way through, I put a boat load of sound deading material on the deck. I also put the some additional foam on top of the subwoofer so that it buffer it from the rear deck lid.

Hope this helps for anyone thinking about doing the same thing.
I looked at the manual for the Kicker sub on Crutchfield, but I don't see how you can wire a mono sub in the back deck to 2 ohm. Can you explain?

I looked it up. Because it's a duel voice coil you can jumper it to it's other inputs to reduce it.
 
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