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Well, the cold temperatures are here and vibrations at idle while in gear are also present (for example stopped at a red light with foot on the brake). I really can't explain why this is occuring, but cold weather affects idle vibrations. All my motor mounts are OEM and brand new. When the temperature outside gets warmer like spring or summer the vibrations decrease for sure. But why?? I have a 2006 Accord Sedan 4-cyl. with 81k miles. No vibrations at all in Reverse, Park, or Neutral. Vibrations occur only in drive in cold weather. If I turn my headlights on while in drive and foot on the brake while idiling the vibrations decrease alot because the computer will increase the rpm's. Is this happing to others?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Well, the cold temperatures are here and vibrations at idle while in gear are also present (for example stopped at a red light with foot on the brake). I really can't explain why this is occuring, but cold weather affects idle vibrations. All my motor mounts are OEM and brand new. When the temperature outside gets warmer like spring or summer the vibrations decrease for sure. But why?? I have a 2006 Accord Sedan 4-cyl. with 81k miles. No vibrations at all in Reverse, Park, or Neutral. Vibrations occur only in drive in cold weather. If I turn my headlights on while in drive and foot on the brake while idiling the vibrations decrease alot because the computer will increase the rpm's. Is this happing to others?


Is everyone stumped like me? :dunno:
 

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I'm stumped....wonder if one of the few honda techs on here would know. As far as I know, the tranny is always the same / very similar to the coolant temperature, and under the hood the temperature should always be fairly warm regardless of the season.
 

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elvis: I'm gonna take a shot here.....are you certain the new motor mounts are OEM and installed properly?

What are your actual RPM's at various points? (Park, neutral, cold park, hot engine in park, etc....)
 

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elvis: I'm gonna take a shot here.....are you certain the new motor mounts are OEM and installed properly?

What are your actual RPM's at various points? (Park, neutral, cold park, hot engine in park, etc....)
Front, Rear, Side, an lower transmission mount installed by a local Honda dealership foreman. We test drove it and he said everything normal. Idle rpm in all gears are right.:dunno:
 

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From my experience, try a can of Techron. It's helped mine with the same issues. For 8 or 9$, why not.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
From my experience, try a can of Techron. It's helped mine with the same issues. For 8 or 9$, why not.

I already tried a can of bg-44k fuel system cleaner, and no difference. Cold temperatures seem to aggravate the idle on Honda 4-cly.'s while in drive and foot on the brake. My 1998 Accord I4 had the same vibrations during cold or wet weather. There has got to be a reason for this.:paranoid:

Rick: Does your I4 behave the same?
 

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my girlfriends toyota did this recently.. in her case it was the throttle body... i had to clean the carbon out of where the "butterfly" closes.. and boom! all better
 

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Rick: Does your I4 behave the same?
No, but the boys are on to something here....

I would suggest a Mass Air Flow sensor cleaning, a Seafoam treatment (through the intake- not the gas tank), and a throttle body cleaning.

My 1991 Nissan 240sx did that and I cleaned the incredibly dirty throttle body and ran Seafoam through the intake. Still not perfect, but much better than it was- and I just drove it an hour ago....in Chicago.

If that does not do it, I would look at the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)....
 

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When dealing with mounts, you're supposed to loosely install them all before torquing them down one by one. Also, there might be a break-in period for new rubber mounts.

Make sure you don't have a problem with the front vacuum-assisted mount by unplugging the connector on top of the intake manifold. If the vibrations get worse after unplugging it, then you'll know that it's working.
 

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While I would follow the advice above I thought I would share my experience with idle vibration in my 03 I4 at coupe, 45k, which were dramatically decreased after drain and fill of the ATF. :dunno:
 

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I'm embarrassed to pull up to a drive-thru when I first start my car. The whole steering wheel shakes like crazy till the rpms die down to 800. I actually think the way this car act when first started is a safety problem. I'm alway smashing down the brake pedal for the first few minutes while the car tries to run away.

I replaced a few of the engine mounts, seafoamed it, changed the tranny fluid, reprogramed the computer, tried to disable the IACV. Nothing helped really. My buddy has a 2004 I4 sedan that never shakes. Only difference, his has a MAF and I have a MAP.


I have an idea this summer to try and wrap the whole steering column with dynamat.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
No, but the boys are on to something here....

I would suggest a Mass Air Flow sensor cleaning, a Seafoam treatment (through the intake- not the gas tank), and a throttle body cleaning.

My 1991 Nissan 240sx did that and I cleaned the incredibly dirty throttle body and ran Seafoam through the intake. Still not perfect, but much better than it was- and I just drove it an hour ago....in Chicago.

If that does not do it, I would look at the Idle Air Control Valve (IAC)....
I don't think its a dirty throttle body because like I said the car is smooth in Reverse with foot on the brake at idle and lights off or on.
 

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elvis: Am stumped...a newer member here, Jim, has the username "74f100". He is a very capable and nice man, and seems to know these transmissions pretty well (he just rebuilt his wife's). I wonder if he can shed light on your issue- if it is a transmission issue.

Just to ask, what transmission fluid are you running and how old is it?
 

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Check that your front mount has the vacuum hose plugged in. My steering wheel vibrates a tiny bit with OEM mounts with the AC on, I'd say a small amount of vibration in gear is normal for the i4.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
elvis: Am stumped...a newer member here, Jim, has the username "74f100". He is a very capable and nice man, and seems to know these transmissions pretty well (he just rebuilt his wife's). I wonder if he can shed light on your issue- if it is a transmission issue.

Just to ask, what transmission fluid are you running and how old is it?
There is nothing wrong with my transmission. It's original and has the Honda fluid in it I replaced using the 3x drain and fill. My transmission shifts very good and smooth.

The front motor mount hose has to be plugged in correctly, because like I said no vibration in reverse and no vibration when my headlights are on while idiling in drive and foot on the brake. Also, like I said during warmer temperatures outside the vibrations decrease.

I have seen this before on other Honda Accords. Just can't explain why. This vibration I have is slight and one Honda foreman said it's normal with 4-cyl. motors. But why?????? :dunno:
 

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Did not say there was anything wrong with the transmission, just that he may shed light on what REVERSE does to the car's vibrations vs. DRIVE, as well as warm vs. cold.

Again, I am stumped, so I was reaching....
 

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It would be nice if we could just reprogram the computer so it wouldn't idle high at start up. My VW (I4) doesn't idle high at start up.

Also I changed my front exhaust hangar, didn't help, but you could look at yours and see if it is ratty. (rubber part)
 

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I'm wondering if sitting at red lights and stop signs over the years wears something in the transmission, as far as forward gears are concerned. The reverse may not do this, because people rarely sit at a stop in reverse for long periods of time.
It still could be motor mounts, because sitting in Drive, with the brakes on, puts opposite pressure on the mounts as when in reverse. My 92 Accord used to vibrate sometimes at stops, especially with the A/C on. Glad my V6 doesn't do that because I hated it. If I was sitting at a light for more than a few seconds, I would push the shifter into neutral till the light turned green.
 
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