After the car started twice as is.
Immobilizer tested fine.
- Did the Coil test with the 2 (A+)( B-)terminals and got 1.1 (meter set at 2K ohms).
- . Tested the for continuity by using a jumper wire from the IMC ( blk/ yell wire) to the interior starter relay and got nothing (meter set 2K ohms)
- Tested the Ignition switch to the relay blk./ yel wire test and had no power (meter set at A/C 200v)..Turned the ignition switch on checked for voltage (as above) between the black yellow wire and read no power.
- Checked the black yellow wire between the ignition switch and the ICM.(meter set at A/C 200v)
- With the ignition on, checked the voltage (meter at A/C 200v) between the black and blue of the ICM and read power. Have to check again for exact power.
- Disconnected the ECM and checked for continuity (meter set at 2K) at the yell / grn wire between the ICM and the PCM connector terminal and got no continuity with car battery disconnected..
- Tested some other wires leading (female side of conn.)to the PCM and still read open lines.
Just to update the trouble shooting on the car, noticed that the main eng./ battery ground cable at the front passenger side -cable was showing corrosion and some oil on it. Removed it / checked the ohms.and cleaned it with wire brush. Also, sanded down the area. Plan is to get the car ready for another test start. Checked all ground cables and still won't fire up. Could the crankshaft positioning sensor be bad with a no spark issue?. Still no check engine light coming on.
Crank, no start -(01yr DX Model 2.3)
After the car started twice as is.
Immobilizer tested fine.
Immobilizer tested fine.
- Did the Coil test with the 2 (A+)( B-)terminals and got 1.1 (meter set at 2K ohms).
- . Tested the for continuity by using a jumper wire from the IMC ( blk/ yell wire) to the interior starter relay and got nothing (meter set 2K ohms)
- Tested the Ignition switch to the relay blk./ yel wire test and had no power (meter set at A/C 200v)..Turned the ignition switch on checked for voltage (as above) between the black yellow wire and read no power.
- Checked the black yellow wire between the ignition switch and the ICM.(meter set at A/C 200v)
- With the ignition on, checked the voltage (meter at A/C 200v) between the black and blue of the ICM and read power. Have to check again for exact power.
- Disconnected the ECM and checked for continuity (meter set at 2K) at the yell / grn wire between the ICM and the PCM connector terminal and got no continuity with car battery disconnected..
- Tested some other wires leading (female side of conn.)to the PCM and still read open lines.
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The are no signs of a broken belt such as noise when cranking or an oil leak. Would it be possible to inspect without going through the process that it would take to replace?. Also, could the Crankshaft sensor be bad without a check engine light coming on?.Broken timing belt?
Broken timing belt?
Belt is good .
Any other suggestions, the belt is tight?.Broken timing belt?
Any other suggestions Darkart for the repair?.Been working on this for months. Thanks.Belt is good .
If none of the electronic modules are getting power it won’t start. You will need to figure out why you are getting no power to the ECM when the ignition is switched on.
Sounds good, is there way I could run a jumper wire or lead to bypass something for troubleshooting?.You will need to figure out why you are getting no power to the ECM when the ignition is switched on.
Have you checked the main relay? That may need replacing.
Yes, a Mechanic and I checked that at the beginning. Do think I should rent a circuit tester at a local auto parts store?.Have you checked the main relay? That may need replacing.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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