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Well I got 4 quarts of HCF-2 from my local dealer to the tune of $11.55 a piece total of $49 out the door. The crush washer was $3.50, parts guys says it's magnesium and made in Japan. I skipped that and flipped my old one over. Over all a very easy drain and fill the instructions are posted on here and easy to follow. I am no novice to this type of work and am not naive enough to judge fluid quality based on color alone but the oil that came out was dark and smelled horrible. Pics below.

Old fluid.






New fluid



Didn't shift bad before just that lurch on deceleration no shudders either. Drove nice on the test drive. I drive 500 miles a week so Ill be able to tell pretty quick if it's better or the same. For me it was worth the $50 and an hour of my life to swap out the old fluid if only for the piece of mind.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
My plug had some paste to it but not enough to worry about. I will end up doing a drain and fill every 25000 too which ends up being yearly for me. I bought mine with 15000 on it already in Sept so this was a catch up change for me.

Any plans to get an oil analysis done for it? Curious what the #'s are for it at 25,000 miles.
Wasn't planning on it since the book says every 25000 in certain conditions I figured it was a good time to do it.
 

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My plug had some paste to it but not enough to worry about. I will end up doing a drain and fill every 25000 too which ends up being yearly for me. I bought mine with 15000 on it already in Sept so this was a catch up change for me.
Your old CVT fluid is very dark and that would concern me if it were my car as previous owner may have beat the crap out of the car. Following MM may not be a good idea on CVT fluid - 60K miles for first change is a bit too risky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes it is dark that's why I'm glad to have at least half of it out of there. At least if it does shit the bed they can't say I didn't change the fluid as required.
 

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Yes it is dark that's why I'm glad to have at least half of it out of there. At least if it does shit the bed they can't say I didn't change the fluid as required.
I recommend that you do another drain/fill in a week or so and do one more in a week then stick to every 20-25K per your preference. I bought a case of HCF-2 fluid for this purpose. My fluid was not dark so I did not do another drain/fill.
 

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How often does Honda say to change this stuff? I was looking at a Passat TDI/DSG before my Accord. 40,000mi DSG juice changes put the fork in the Passat.


Jay
 

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How often does Honda say to change this stuff? I was looking at a Passat TDI/DSG before my Accord. 40,000mi DSG juice changes put the fork in the Passat.


Jay
Manual states to wait until maintenance sub code 3 pops up, unless the following applies:

Driving in mountainous areas at very low vehicle speeds or trailer towing results in higher transmission temperatures. This requires transmission fluid changes more frequently than recommended by the Maintenance Minder. If you regularly drive your vehicle under these conditions, have the transmission fluid changed every 25,000 miles (40,000 km).
 

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I try to keep my RPMs between 1.5-2.5k to save the CVT as long as I can and get good MPG
I just drive the car normally which should aid in longevity and return good gas milage.
 

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I understand the logic of spending $49 to change the fluid to hedge on future repairs. I do not understand the logic of not spending $3.50 for a new crush washer.

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I understand the logic of spending $49 to change the fluid to hedge on future repairs. I do not understand the logic of not spending $3.50 for a new crush washer.

Jay
I didn't see the need to spend almost $4 on a washer. It's snug and dry. Next time I do it I'll get a new one, have been doing it this way for years and never leaked a drop.

I try to keep my RPMs between 1.5-2.5k to save the CVT as long as I can and get good MPG
You are not doing your engine any favors by babying it, and if the trans can't take the torque of the engine it's attached to its gonna have issues. I rev it as high as I need to to get it to do what I need it to. Part of my drive home every day involves me pulling a fairly long steep grade,I run it at about 4 grand for 2-3 minutes every day. I don't know if a DI engine will carbon up the way other engines would but I drive mine like it was intended. Mine gets serviced regularly and worked hard but not abused.
 

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Wow.. Im rough on my CVT (using paddle shift)... i am really curious with mine when the time comes. i am about to hit 16K and 1 year of owning it on 1/1/14.
 
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