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Discussion Starter #1
Did the dashcam install earlier this week by using a fuse-tap & accessory/cigarette-lighter adapter holder. I wired the dashcam for ignition power, so I am not sure which fuse location you can use if you're looking for a constant power source. I'm not a professional installer, so if there are any mistakes please let me know; I will appreciate it.

Note: Point of reference is from the view-point of looking up at the fuse-panel.
Procedure:
- Connect the red wire of the adapter holder to the fuse-tap by crimping it. Plug in the fuse to the top slot and verify with a multimeter that there is an electrical connection from the left blade of the tap to the center of the holder.
- Clean the area of the windshield to mount the dashcam with isopropyl alcohol prior to attaching it.
- Run the wire by inserting it into the headliner, to the A-pillar.
- Tuck the wire beneath the A-pillar cover, to the door rubber seal.
- Then tuck the wire under the rubber seal, and run it all the way down until it reaches the area below the steering wheel.
- Re-position the driver seat and seatback, and steering wheel position, so that you can access the interior fuse panel located underneath the steering wheel. Essentially you will need to be partially upside-down looking up at the fuse panel.
- Plug the dashcam adapter into the adapter holder, and insert the fuse tap into location #45 (thanks to Jhold, from the Wiring radar detector and dashcam ... thread). Note the orientation of the tap, as the left side is hot. Alternatively you can also use #47 but the hot lead is on the right side.
- Now you will need to locate a good electrical ground to attach your return (black) wire. I picked the bracket with a small hole near the panel, and decided to use a nut & bolt to secure it. However, due to the restrictive space, this turned out to be more difficult that I anticipated & was quite time-consuming.
- Tucked the excess wiring underneath the steering area, and that's it!
 

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Thank you for this. Am considering adding a dash cam and was curious of not just what my options were, but how easy and elegant a hardwire solution would be.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Other than the small wire you see from the dashcam to the headliner, no other part of the wiring is visible so it's a very clean looking solution. Running the wiring was the easy part, but working in the cramp space beneath the steering was difficult, especially when you're not quite sure which fuse location to use. I initially inserted the fuse tap the wrong way and got no power on #45, so it took awhile to get everything just right. All-in-all it took me a bit more than 3 hours to finish it. If I were to do it again, it should take no more than an hour.
 

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Nice write-up and pictures.

I recommend adding another dash cam to the rear window. The slope of the window isn't steep so I used an old suction type one and snaked a long cable along the side of the rear seat and mats to the center armrest for power.

I did this after I got hit from the back by two cars who side-swiped each other, and of course they blamed each other, etc. My front dash cam only showed that I was legally stopped at a red light.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Any lights on the camera? like indicator LEDs
I guess it might depend on the dashcam model. The one I have doesn't have any LED indicator lights, but does have an LCD display.
 

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I am wiring for a dashcam and would like power to it at all times so it can record while parked (my camera supports this). My current thought is to have it use the power that has to be running the overhead lights or the garage door opener. I feel like I should be able to mount my dashcam in this general area and be able to connect it into the power up there without having to hide a bunch of wire runs throughout my car, dealing with A-pillar, etc.

Does anyone have pictures of a similar install or have tips or have a reason why this wouldn't work?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Does anyone have pictures of a similar install or have tips or have a reason why this wouldn't work?
If your dashcam uses a 12v input, I suppose it could work by tapping into the power & return wires, but you will be sharing the same circuit (i.e. fuse) with the car's other electronics. In my case, my dashcam uses a standard mini-USB input (5v) and cigarette lighter adapter, which I imagine steps down the voltage from 12v to 5v. Hiding the large adapter in the overhead lights would likely not be possible, which is one reason I went with the fuse-tap.
 

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If your dashcam uses a 12v input, I suppose it could work by tapping into the power & return wires, but you will be sharing the same circuit (i.e. fuse) with the car's other electronics. In my case, my dashcam uses a standard mini-USB input (5v) and cigarette lighter adapter, which I imagine steps down the voltage from 12v to 5v. Hiding the large adapter in the overhead lights would likely not be possible, which is one reason I went with the fuse-tap.

My dashcam uses standard mini-USB (5V). And it comes with cigarette lighter power adapter, but I would rather rig it up using a 12V to 5V converter (which I have ordered
If I could tap that red/black side into power already in the overhead light area, then I feel like I could have a very clean install.

This adapter is a lot smaller than the average cigarette lighter adapter so I think it may fit up in the overhead light area.

However, I'm not an electrician and am not even that comfortable removing the plate to get access to this area (does anyone have a link to a video of this being done on a 2018 accord? I have seen 9th gen video, but don't know if it is applicable to the 10th or if it is a different process.)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
I have seen 9th gen video, but don't know if it is applicable to the 10th or if it is a different process.)
That sounds doable. I also saw the 9th gen video showing the removable of the overhead console (with the map lights & sunglasses holder), & if our 10th gen has the same 4 screws, there a chance it might be the same.

Can you put up a video on how you removed that A-pillar to run the wire through it?
Unfortunately I didn't make a video of my install. In my case, I didn't remove the A-pillar cover, I simply lifted the top end slightly to tuck in the wire until I got it to the door's weather-stripping, then tucked it behind the rubber weather-stripping. I'm not a 100% sure if this is the right way to do it, but according to at least 1 youtube video I saw, it should be OK to avoid interference with the airbag.
 

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I prefer to run the wire in the A pillar cover. I don't like to mess with weather gasket for the door as it can cause leaks. When you run the wire for the dashcam, be mindful of how you tuck the wire into the A pillar cover. You want it so it doesn't obstruct A Pillar airbag operation in the event of it blowing in an accident.
 

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Can you put up a video on how you removed that A-pillar to run the wire through it?


Remove “air bag” symbol at top. Remove bolt behind it (either 8 or 10mm...can’t remember) . Pull door seal down. Then there’s just one or two clips holding it. Gently pull inward and it will release.

To prevent marring up the plastic when removing the air bag symbol, use a plastic trim remover tool.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

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If you're running the wire from the rearview mirror area to the fuse box via headliner>A pillar cover, you want to run the wire behind the A pillar airbag so it doesnt affect the operation in the event it deploys.

Attached a photo for reference. Note that the black wire goes behind the airbag.


Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
 
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