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Discussion Starter #1
As the weather has gotten warmer, I've found shifting has become more difficult. It's fine in the morning and tough during the drive home. The clutch is engaging very close to the floor. The clutch itself feels fine and my Honda service technician talked me out of replacing it just a few months ago. If it needs to be replaced, I can live with it, though.

The clutch fluid was replaced at 210k and the MTF at 205k. The clutch is original, and my plan is to have Honda do the job whenever it's needed. Sure would appreciate hearing everyone's ideas.
 

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Roll Tide!
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That's great you stated the mileage when the service was done, but you forgot to expand on that just a wee bit. So I'll start with "How many miles are on it now?"

And why are you trusting a bunch of doods sitting around in their tighty-whiteys posting on a forum instead of a Honda technician that has actually seen, touched, and felt-up your car in real life? Can we assume you haven't been back to him after "the weather has gotten warmer" and your problem has gotten worse? Perhaps he bites or you are just paranoid, or both.
 

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Bob's your UNCLE ...
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^ I resent that ... I'm a boxer kind of guy.
 

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A clutch engaging near the bottom is a clear sign that the Clutch is worn out. This assumes the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are good and no air in the system.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
Sorry, the car has 263k. I need to update my sig.

At my son's suggestion, I'm going to bleed the fluid this weekend and see if it helps. He thinks I have a bubble somewhere.
 

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A clutch engaging near the bottom is a clear sign that the Clutch is worn out. This assumes the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder are good and no air in the system.
I don't understand this. I would have expected a worn clutch to not engage till near the top. Why does it engage early?

Edit: Actually, wouldn't the hydraulic clutch more-or-less self-adjust so that the engagement point doesn't move much, even if the clutch is worn? This is my first hydraulic clutch, and while I'm well shy of the OP's 265k, it doesn't seem like the shift point has moved.
 

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I agree with your son. I assume you have actually checked the clutch (brake) fluid level, so it's time to bleed.

At 263K on the original clutch, it's not a distant possibility that the clutch would be worn.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I checked the master cylinder and see no signs of leaking there. I bled the clutch hydraulic fluid. It was quite dark and saw some bubbles coming out, but there was no noticeable change in the shifting. So I'll be dropping the car off at the dealer this week.
 

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If the clutch hydraulic fluid is very dirty with only 50K on it since last serviced, it means either the clutch slave or master cylinder internal seals are done for and are contaminating the fluid. At 263K, I'd replace one at a time and see if there is an improvement. They are both cheap to buy.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
To close this thread, I need a new clutch. I will also have the MA and SL cylinders and TO bearing replaced. With a new flywheel, the dealer cost is about $2500. This is my everyday vehicle, so it's imperative the job be done right. I have previously used independent mechanics for clutch replacements and twice ended up with major headaches because they screwed something up. So I'm paying more now to reduce the chance of a screw-up.
 

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Reverse Gear
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To close this thread, I need a new clutch. I will also have the MA and SL cylinders and TO bearing replaced. With a new flywheel, the dealer cost is about $2500. This is my everyday vehicle, so it's imperative the job be done right. I have previously used independent mechanics for clutch replacements and twice ended up with major headaches because they screwed something up. So I'm paying more now to reduce the chance of a screw-up.
Congrats on getting 263K on your original clutch!
Our 7th Gen has 122K and I thought we were on borrowed time with the clutch. Maybe there is hope that we're only 1/2 done with it.
 
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I have the same problem.
I drained and replaced the old fluid and it made it better. Im at 180,000 KM. Original clutch.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I've now got a brand new clutch and have to say, it's AMAZING!! Feels like a new car. It's so much easier to shift, and disengage and engage the clutch, it's effortless compared to the old one. I can't believe I put up with that old clutch for so long. Anyway, I don't expect to have to replace this one ever again. If I live to 100, I'm not likely to put another 264k on this car's odometer.
 

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Thank-you for the update!

I have an '04 I4 5-manual EX with 153k on it, purchased new, so you've helped give me a rough gauge of what I can expect from the clutch in terms of life expectancy.

Can you list other major components aside from the clutch that you've had to replace during your 263k? Everything is still original here except for the rear calipers, which I just replaced.

How is oil consumption? Mpg?

My Accord still drives great and I'm so very very impressed with my first Honda. I now understand what brand loyalty is about. Hope Honda continues the great work.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Can you list other major components aside from the clutch that you've had to replace during your 263k? Everything is still original here except for the rear calipers, which I just replaced.

How is oil consumption? Mpg?
This car has been pretty reliable. Apart from expected maintenance parts (brakes, shocks) and fluids, I've had few actual repairs. The only replacement parts have been the downstream oxygen sensor, one axle (due to a torn CV boot), driver door lock (sticking due to rust), and cat heat shields. The clutch replacement has been my biggest expense so far (more than all other repairs combined, actually).

The car burns no oil, and my mileage is 33-35 mpg in mixed driving.
 
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