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Bought that belt and changed it out in about 15 minutes...hardest part was finding a metal tube I could find to fit over my 14MM wrench :)
 

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Great tutorial! I changed my belt today, and it wasn't bad at all thanks to the info here. I put a pipe on the wrench to be able to move it enough. No way I could have done it with just my hand and the fairly short 14mm wrench that I have.

One question though: My indicator arrow is *just* on the left side of the indicator mark now that the new belt is on. (It was quite a bit to the right side before replacing). Is this anything to be concerned about? I did have to crank pretty hard on the tensioner pulley to get the new belt on. Could I have damaged it?
 

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Cruising in Montana
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I did mine tonight, about 124,000 miles on the old belt (I'm guessing it's original). Arrow was about 1/4" to the right of the mark.

The "Gatorback" belt is no longer called that, nor is it made by Goodyear. It's now made by Continental and is called the Elite Poly-V Belt. For the 4 cylinder engines, the p/n is 4070700.

No difference in noise or idle, but now the arrow points directly at the mark.
 

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No difference in noise or idle, but now the arrow points directly at the mark.
Replaced the drive belt today, at about 121,000 miles. A few months ago, at about 119,000, the Honda dealer suggested I get it changed. Finally got around to doing it, with the tool I rented from Advanced Auto. It really took less than 20 mins with the correct tool.
Here is what I found after I changed it.
 

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Hello everyone, I have an 03 accord l4 and I have a rattling noise coming from the belt area when the car is warm and at lower rpms for example when idling on D or R and turning on the AC make it worse. When I put the car on P or N and when I drive it goes away. Checked the auto tensioner the arrow is on the right of the bar like in the pics at the beginning of this post. Now how can I figure out is it the belt? The tensioner? Or the tensioner pulley?
The car has 150k and don't know when the belt was replaced.
Thanks and any advises are greatly appreciated
 

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I tried to change the belt this morning, but I couldn't loosen up the pulley. I used a 9/16 which is about 14mm wrench? I pulled very hard clock wise, but it wouldn't go. Maybe I need a bigger wrench as in longer?
 

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I tried to change the belt this morning, but I couldn't loosen up the pulley. I used a 9/16 which is about 14mm wrench? I pulled very hard clock wise, but it wouldn't go. Maybe I need a bigger wrench as in longer?
It does require a lot of leverage, the wrench I use is nearly 18" long, You may need to replace the tensioner if it won't budge...

Honda Serpentine Belt Tensioner Tool
 

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It does require a lot of leverage, the wrench I use is nearly 18" long, You may need to replace the tensioner if it won't budge...

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0054WIBI2?keywords=Honda%20accord%20tensioner%20wrench&qid=1446425408&ref_=sr_1_fkmr0_1&sr=8-1-fkmr0
I remember trying to pull on the tensioner in the past and it moved with little effort. I hope I don't need to replace the tensioner. My tool is just a regular 14mm wrench.

...but it's not 14mm. Go out and buy a metric set; everything on these cars is metric. Rounded-off bolts are no fun, and that's what you get when you use inch wrenches on metric bolts.
Thanks for the tip. I'll do just that. :thmsup:
 

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I just have a few more questions.

Is the tensioner pulley going to be hard to push down? I have a 3/8 inch drive ratchet with a 14mm socket, will that be strong enough or should I go rent a breaker bar from autozone?

Does the belt go on in any way? Like, theres no dots or lines to match up?

Does anyone have the diagram to show how the belt route? I don't have a sticker on my hood because its aftermarket =X

just ordered the goodyear gatorback from amazon because its only $26.99 shipped, and seems to have really good reviews...


















 

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2007 Accord EX-L K24-Auto
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Just did mine - my indicator was to the left meaning tensioner pulley and belt. However, I just did the belt out of curiosity and found it is now dead on the mark.
I am wondering WHERE the reference is that says the tensioner needs replaced when the mark is to the left. OEM service manual, Honda ASE tech? It seems to me, the left side of the mark would simply mean the belt has stretched that little bit. From the mechanical engineering aspect, I am not sure how this would indicate the need for a new pulley. Perhaps a clearer definition is in order and I have it backwards - by LEFT I think it means the mark is CCW (to the rear of the car) from the arrow when viewed on that side of the engine.
 

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2007 LX Graphite Pearl
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29 Posts
Big thanks to this DIY and all the comments. I successfully did this earlier this afternoon all by myself and likely would not have attempted it without this DIY. Like a few others, I used the Dayco belt from Advanced Auto Parts. $31 + tax. I got the loner tensioner tool too. They charged $48 to my card and fully refunded when I returned it an hour or so later.

The only trouble I had was it was a pain to get down to the lower pulleys. I have big hands so I'm sure that didn't help... Also, key is to move the power steering fluid reservior as the DIY points out. I didn't jack up the car either. I'm sure that would've helped to get to the lower pulleys.

For everyone who thinks its hard to pull the tensioner down, use the tool. It was not hard at all with the leverage the tool gives you. Very little strength was required and I'm no Hercules.

Also, my old belt was a little stretched out compared to the new one but other than that no signs of cracks or tears. I have nearly 92K on my car. I purchased it at 29K, I doubt the previous owner replaced it.

Oh, also, as others have said, my arrow indicator with the new belt on is now *just* to the left of the bar, where with the old belt it was noticeably to the right of the bar. Since it sounds like this is the case for most, I'm not going to worry about it.
 

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HardCoreHondaLover
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I looked at the Honda manual and it doesn't mention anything about replacing the drive belt. It only mentions inspecting it every 30k miles. I currently have 100,000 miles on this belt. I guess I'm old school and believe in fixing things before they break and think that's quite a few miles to have on a belt. Sure, it looks ok to me (no cracks), but to me, a visual only goes so far.

So, when do you typically replace the drive belt (or do you just wait for it to snap😃)?
 

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You have to take it off to do the timing belt (assuming it's a v6) anyway, so that seems like a good time to do it. If it's an I4, I'd just go ahead and do it now since it's cracked. There isn't generally any interval on these b/c they're generally changed when they wear past a certain point, either the grooves on the belt aren't as deep as necessary or the belt starts cracking

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NOT your average Joe
2006 Accord EX Sedan, 2.4ℓ & 5-spd Auto
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Soft parts such as belts and hoses start to concern me if older than 10 yrs. I had ALL of my coolant hoses replaced last year ahead of summer. Had the ancilliary serpentine belt changed a short time later. It's an l4 so nothing internal. Per another post, the rubber segments of the fuel lines are something to keep an eye on with high mileage or age. Just like tires, the rubber parts will tend to dry rot after several years / miles.
 

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There's an indicator that let's you know when to replace it.

 

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7th gen belt with 100k. Yes, replace regardless of how it looks.
 
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