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Terminator
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If you had the car on ramps or one side lifted to get access to the drain plug, you may have drained more than the 3 quarts. If you can, measure the drained fluid. I pour the drained fluid into a milk jug with the levels marked off on the sides.

Do as @KW2004Accord stated in the proper method of measuring the ATF level.
Thank you, I'll try that.
 

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Did my first single D&F today. So easy even my amateur self can do it. The transmission on my Accord was replaced at 107k miles, so now that I'm hitting 128k I figured I had better start doing this to avoid issues down the road.
I tried to loosen the drain plug without jacking the car, but since mine is on the passenger side, you have to pull on the ratchet rather than push (or kick, or hit with hammer, etc), so it was not happening. I was pulling with a regular 3/8 ratchet, and it actually started to strip the bolt so I stopped. Borrowed a nice floor jack & stands today, the plug came RIGHT off with a breaker bar. The shifts felt good before, they're silky smooth now.

All in all I spent about $60 by using:
ABN 3/8 15" breaker bar - $12.49 (Amazon)
4 quarts Honda DW-1 - $37.00 (Amazon)
OEM drain plug washer - $4.85 for pack of 5 (Amazon)
Drain pan w/ measurements - About $3 (Walmart)
Extra long funnel - About $2 (Walmart)
Craftsman floor jack & stands - Borrowed

Next time I will only have to buy the actual fluid. I used all 4 quarts, so I am now a commercial for ALWAYS get an extra quart. I also ordered an extra drain plug just in case, but that's going back since I didn't end up needing it.
Cheers
 

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Elvira
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3,628 Posts
Did my first single D&F today. So easy even my amateur self can do it. The transmission on my Accord was replaced at 107k miles, so now that I'm hitting 128k I figured I had better start doing this to avoid issues down the road.
I tried to loosen the drain plug without jacking the car, but since mine is on the passenger side, you have to pull on the ratchet rather than push (or kick, or hit with hammer, etc), so it was not happening. I was pulling with a regular 3/8 ratchet, and it actually started to strip the bolt so I stopped. Borrowed a nice floor jack & stands today, the plug came RIGHT off with a breaker bar. The shifts felt good before, they're silky smooth now.

All in all I spent about $60 by using:
ABN 3/8 15" breaker bar - $12.49 (Amazon)
4 quarts Honda DW-1 - $37.00 (Amazon)
OEM drain plug washer - $4.85 for pack of 5 (Amazon)
Drain pan w/ measurements - About $3 (Walmart)
Extra long funnel - About $2 (Walmart)
Craftsman floor jack & stands - Borrowed

Next time I will only have to buy the actual fluid. I used all 4 quarts, so I am now a commercial for ALWAYS get an extra quart. I also ordered an extra drain plug just in case, but that's going back since I didn't end up needing it.
Cheers
Quietly, rising in a crescendo......

One of us, one of us, one of us !!! (Tod Browning's controversial cult horror film Freaks from 1932.)

4 quarts FTW. Just keep the plug, probably not worth the hassle or the gas.

Happy motoring.
 

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I did this today on my '07 i4. A few notes:

- I didn't jack it up. There was plenty of room to get a pan under there and access the drain plug.
- I pulled the dipstick after I pulled the drain plug. This makes the initial flow a little slower, which really helps if the fluid is still hot. :eek:
- I did four drain and fills, since I bought a case of fluid. Yeah, a bit overkill, but it took me to ~89%. :) Case was $99.17 on Amazon, so $8.26 per quart.
- About 2.9 quarts came out (I measured it the first time, but not the other times).
- I also changed the filter (OEM; $24.57 on Amazon). Not fun. The rear clamp was easy with 11" right-angle needle-nose pliers, but the front one was tough. I took out the airbox and intake hose for better access to the front clamp.

Driving in between drain and fills is a pain, especially since you really should get up to speed to lock up the torque converter (or so they say). It makes the total time for the job excessive. I think I will switch to the 'every-other-oil-change' method. Drain and fill and you're done.
 

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Cruising in Montana
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^^^ what he said. I've had the used ATF analyzed at a lab and they say it's good for 50k, plus the maintenance minder comes up for ATF about every 50k, so that's when it gets changed.
 

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^^^ what he said. I've had the used ATF analyzed at a lab and they say it's good for 50k, plus the maintenance minder comes up for ATF about every 50k, so that's when it gets changed.
So you a single drain and fill, replacing about 40% of the fluid, every 50K?
 

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Note that scheduled maintenance calls for a change every 30K after the initial 60K on the severe schedule, which I am on.
 

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Questions about the ATF cooler line filter. I just called my local Honda dealer for the atf filter and he said it would be $62.80 for the filter wow! I am wondering if I could get a filter from autozone and get one for around $20-ish. Probably not OEM... I would like to stick with OEM - suggestions? I want to get the most from my accord, we love Vader so far!(wife named the car lol? )
 

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I got this one from Amazon and it's working great.

 

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Thanks! will look into amazon - was just trying to get a filter for tomorrow I was unaware of the cooling line filter when I placed my order on amazon for the atf fluid and o ring. I need to do a fluid change this weekend due to it being a new car for me and it’s 65k miles the original owner probably never did a change or flush, fluid is a light pink-brown color and shifts a little harsh was hoping a fluid swap would correct the symptoms. Might have to eat the extra 40 bucks for the sake of our trans. What y’all think?
 

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If you need it now, then eat the $40. If it's something that can wait for next weekend, then buy on Amazon.

Also be sure to get the correct Honda ATF for your vehicle. Getting a substitute won't work or won't work as effectively.
 

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It probably wouldn’t hurt if I changed atf this weekend and filter next, right? I only say this because accord-ing(lol) to Honda this isn’t a part that needs service intervals... changing a filter would be on an interval imo but I’m no Honda guru. Thanks for the reply’s!
Edit: I do plan on getting 9 quarts of “genuine Honda” dw-1 that’s what owners manual requires. ?
 

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Don't drink and drive
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It probably wouldn’t hurt if I changed atf this weekend and filter next, right? I only say this because accord-ing(lol) to Honda this isn’t a part that needs service intervals... changing a filter would be on an interval imo but I’m no Honda guru. Thanks for the reply’s!
Edit: I do plan on getting 9 quarts of “genuine Honda” dw-1 that’s what owners manual requires. ?
It won't. Go for it.
 

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Thank you. Is the crush washer for the I4 5AT drain bolt 90471-PX4-000?
 
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