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You know the story... door lock on my 2005 LX sedan died; would not lock or unlock anymore but it just wiggled. Got the new actuator part from Rockauto for ~$22 shipped and went to work...

Here is how to do this. It is more pain in the a** than it being "hard", namely because all of those parts (and how they move) are pretty unfamiliar. Lots of levers, cables and cramped spaces.

Remember: EASY DOES IT. You do not want to bend/break any hooks, latches or cables, and there will be plenty. If you have no patience, might be worth it to take it to the shop. Just saying... :thumbsup:

1. Take the door panel off; DIY for that here. I did not take the switches out, but disconnected them from the back myself.

2. When the panel is off this is how it all looks like:



Note that the window needs to be UP at this point!

3. I simply pulled off the moisture barrier slowly, shoving the black sealant back with a stick of wood. Watch it, this stuff is super sticky and is PITA to wash off your skin, likely impossible from clothes. Just take your time and do it slow. I did not warm it up beforehand, it was gooey enough anyway (~80 degree weather):



I pulled it off about this much and then taped it down with some masking tape. Watch those sticky edges! Hair hazard! :naughty:



4. Now, the part that we need to replace is out of sight (of course) - I am holding it in this photo; the whole latch assembly needs to come out! Start by unscrewing this:



This holds the window left rail, where the window slides into the door. I left the rail in but loose at the bottom, it gave me enough space to work.

5. Unscrew the following 3 screws:



6. Unscrew this screw and unhook two black plastic latches as shown:



7. Unhook two electrical connectors from the actuator; note where the arrow is; this is a little tab that you need to press in the direction of the arrow and then pull out the connector. Not easy as it is a bit cramped.



8. Unscrew the driver's side door lock thingy (I am sure it has a proper name):



9. Now it gets tricky; there are two rods connected to the part you need to take off; Princess posted a PDF in this thread that holds the key for how this needs to be done, here is a relevant part:



Now, I thought that one of rods was easier to unhook from the latch side and the other from the handle so this is what I'll show. The first rod, from the latch side:

Black clip needs to be rotated like so and then the rod comes right out in the direction of the arrow.



You end up with this:



Now for the second rod, pop out the plastic off the little maintenance window here:



Now, it is tricky to see but there is a green plastic clip that needs to be unhooked by rotating it in the direction of the arrow and then the rod comes right out, toward you:



(see the above illustration that helps here I think)

10. After you did that... freedom! Navigate the latch out:



11. This is what you got out; a few shots for reference; we need to take it apart:





12. To start taking it apart, unscrew the only visible screw on it:



13. Then slide the cable which was in the black bracket out of it, so you can have slack when you open the latch assembly:



14. Now, I pushed the metal piece sticking out of the plastic, which sort of separated the two pieces as we need them to be. You can use small pliers or something to do this:



15. It comes apart; one side (for reference):



And the other (where I need you to notice stuff):

- unscrew the circled small screw
- you will need to undo the hooked cable, and pop the pink cable bracket off once you take the actuator off
- note the position of the actuator "hand", as noted by one of the arrows
- also note that the actuator is "flush" with the metal piece of the latch assembly; important to note, when you put the new actuator on!

Essentially, once the screw is off, it all kind of comes apart and you can replace the actuator, moving the pink clip between the parts:



That is in fact all; at this point, it is all about putting it back together, as they say "in reverse order".

Double-check all of the connections, screws and electrical plugs. Don't forget to connect the driver inside door handle cable and all. Then test it. Hopefully it all works! :D
 
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BRWNFLSH now
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Good job. When most people decide to change their own actuator for the first time, I'm sure they have no idea what they are getting themselves into. This could help a lot of owners.
 

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2006 I4 MT
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Nice write up! I have this part in the box still waiting to install. I do not look forward to doing it :wave:

I wonder if the taking a blow dryer or heat gun to step 3 would help with getting that plastic barrier off.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Good job. When most people decide to change their own actuator for the first time, I'm sure they have no idea what they are getting themselves into. This could help a lot of owners.
Yeah, like me yesterday morning! :)

I wonder if the taking a blow dryer or heat gun to step 3 would help with getting that plastic barrier off.
Honestly, I feel it will get too sticky if you do that; as it was, the black substance was sort of stringy, and would string out like cheese on a pizza for about 2-3 inches at times. I think if you heat it up, it will be too much as it will be super-stringy. It was not a hard/difficult part, just need to be careful not to make a mess.
 

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this should be a sticky. I used this write up this past morning. It guided me every step of the way. Thanks a million.
 

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2006 I4 MT
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I finally got around to doing this. These photos really helped! I already knew what was in store from this thread and from videos on youtube.

I did break off a few of the door panel clips. Had to run out to the Honda stealership to buy some replacements at $1.70 each. It's probably a good idea to order a pack off of ebay before hand.
 

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veesix
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I'm having this problem with my driver door and back passenger...which is really inconvenient when they stop working at the same time cuz I have to keep making circles around my car. Just bought a left and right one from rock auto like you did and I'll be using your write up when they come in.

Thanks!
Pants
 

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veesix
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I just installed my new actuators today (front driver and rear passenger) from rockauto. Everything seemed to be working fine, but when I am in my locked, running car, if I unlock the door, open it, then shut it, it will make the noise like it's unlocking two times, then lock the doors. Doesn't seem too bad, but if I leave my key in and run out of my car to do something, if I close my door, I am locked out...also, if I were to manually push down that little lock thingy on the driver side, all doors used to lock, but not anymore. Any suggestions?
 

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veesix
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I'd assume you have a sedan because you specified it was your front drivers side, but if it's a coupe, they have different numbers...the driver side one was not too fun D: the passenger rear was easy though..took like 10 minutes with distractions
 

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07V6 EX-L Chicago
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Today I replaced the driver side actuator following the instructions here. Wow! what a wonderful guide. It definitely saved a lot of my time. Thanks!
 

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Just used these instructions to replace my door actuator. Perfect. There wasn't any problem with "rookie"'s instructions,, but the link to the door panel removal didn't warn about one thing. It mentions the piece in question, but I feel should have given a little more warning about its fragility. Of course, removing everything, I pulled the door off as slow as a snail, because in the past, I've learned that there are things attached that you need to be aware of. I would have thought that the poster of the door panel removal would've mentioned that there is a small, green, plastic piece that attaches to the cable for the inside door handle. That green piece is attached to the cable, thereby anchoring the cable to the panel so that when you pull on the door handle, the whole cable does not move back and forth. Well, not being able to see behind that panel in the process of removal, that green piece snapped, and now I can't open my door from the inside until I get that fixed. Hopefully, it will not involve taking everything apart again. I'm hoping that somewhere, I can find that green piece, and attach it to the cable to make the handle functional again. Maybe someone out there knows what this piece is called. I don't.
I can open the door from the outside, however, so at least I can get in and out of the car, albeit not easily.
Anyway, THANKS ROOKIE!! Great job!! :thmsup:
 

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RockAuto Actuator Failed After 4 months

Just a an FYI, I bought the $22 RockAuto actuator, but it failed after 4 months. There would be a loud buzzing every time I tried to unlock the door with the remote or the key. It locked just fine, however. I replaced it again with the $32 actuator from the Honda dealer and everything was fine. For as much trouble as it is to replace the actuator, it's probably worth going with the genuine part the first time.
 

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replaced actuator, still problem

Still same problem after installing new actuator.

Anything that maybe I did possibly to make it not work still?

All things were connected, although now it will not lock all locks once I press down the drivers side lock from the inside, and it did before with the old actuator.

Could it be a bad part? Idk any help/input much appreciated.

Part was bought from autozone for drivers side door.
 

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Thanks, rookie! It took me today about 1.5 - 2 hours to replace the actuator and put the panel back, but without this guide it would take me much longer. Very helpful pictures.
 
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