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We owe Mr. Soichiro Honda
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Just replaced my actuator yesterday. While this is not an overly difficult repair I would say it is not for the faint of heart!
Everything was good until the last step of removing and then replacing the rod from the upper key door lock area. Completely feel o vision, unless I was not loooking at it right.
Other than that it was pretty straight forward. Thanks so much for the write up! I didn't even price it at the dealer. I'm sure at least $250 if not $300.
 

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Replace the actuator today on our 2006 Accord instructions were great.

I have one issue after completing the project. The doors now unlock correctly with the key buttons, however, they do not lock with the key. They do lock inside with the door panel buttons correctly and by manually pushing down lock on the door.

Both connectors on the actuator clicked when they were put back on. Any ideas on what the remaining issue might be? [Well this seems to have gone away on its own I don't understand why but after running the car and shutting off it works both to lock and unlock]


Thanks
 

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We owe Mr. Soichiro Honda
Joined
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138 Posts
Just replaced my actuator yesterday. While this is not an overly difficult repair I would say it is not for the faint of heart!
Everything was good until the last step of removing and then replacing the rod from the upper key door lock area. Completely feel o vision, unless I was not loooking at it right.
Other than that it was pretty straight forward. Thanks so much for the write up! I didn't even price it at the dealer. I'm sure at least $250 if not $300.
Ok. Question for all on DA.
After doing this repair everything was working correctly until a week or so ago. Now the lock will only pop 3/4 of the way. You can pull the handle and the door will open just a notch. Sometimes you hit the unlock button twice it will make it all the way up. Also seems to only do this in the heat. This sounds like a defective part to me. However I wanted to see if anyone had a similar problem after doing this fix? If so what was wrong. Used a honda part not aftermarket. If you stick the key in the door everything works fine.

Any thoughts. Very frustrating!
 

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This thread was huge for me. Don't think I could have replaced my passenger door actuator without it. Thank you. Thank you. :thmsup:
 

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Great write up. I just finished installing the actuator in less than an hour after reviewing the instructions. Thanks !

2005 EX 4dr v6AT 140K
 

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Thanks so much for this write-up and excellent pictures. I had a sticky door lock. Could barely lock and unlock the driver door. Finally the remote wouldn't unlock the door at all. It turned out to be corrosion of the lock mechanism, not the actuator. So I replaced the door lock ($52) and actuator ($21), as well as the cable ($6). Everything now is working brilliantly.
 

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What a legacy!

I just bought a 2004 LX with 203,000 miles. One of the things broken was the passenger door lock. These instructions worked perfectly. I stripped one of the three door latch Phillips head screws and had to drill it out, but all is well with the remaining two screws till I can get a third from the dealer.

I really appreciate the detail and pictures provided by Rookie. Here, a decade later, his hard work is still providing benefit . . . and joy, to backyard mechanics like myself.
 

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I know this is an old thread, but it really helped me replace my door latch cable.

Mine is 2003, however, and the glue stuff was white and at this point pretty dry/crumbly. I had been putting off this job because I was worried it would be a big mess, but on mine it was really easy to just cut through the glue with a razor and it wasn't gooey at all.
 

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Tackling the front passenger actuator today. I'll probably go pick up an impact screwdriver before I start. I need one anyway.

EDIT: Finished, after driving to two hardware stores for an impact screwdriver, then spending 2 hours on the work itself. Buttoned it all up, closed the door, and realized that rattling sound was the door latch rod having come loose. Removing the door liner with the door closed is fun, let me tell you.
 

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I completed this project a week ago. It took me maybe 3 hours but I got stuck once or twice when I misplaced this thread. The photos and description on this thread are AWESOME. A couple notes.

The latch was tough to get the bolts out. I was afraid of stripping them. It helped to first tighten them and then reverse them out. It seemed to loosen them up.

Removing the plastic piece from the second wire in the door was touch. It was on really tight and everything had to be done by feel. I got it eventually. It was much easier to put back on.

The next day I remembered I never checked that the window functioned properly so I went back to test it. It worked. Then I tried to get out of the car. The pull didn't do anything. My dumb ass forgot to connect the wire to the door handle. I had to go back in and attached that wire. In the process the little green plastic piece broke. I am not sure the wire is really secure to the door pull. Does anyone know if that piece can be replaced?

Thanks.
 

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this job is a huge pita. the 3 screws on the side holding the actuator in place are on there tight. I had to use pb blaster to loosen them and then a manual impact wrench to get them loose- similar to brake rotor screws.

and then the stupid door handle cable's green clip broke off. huge PITA, i can't finish the job today and have to get a replacement part tomrorow. took me 5 hours to do driver door and rear right door, and still not done yet =\
 

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I would add that the 3 retaining screws on the side of the door panel can stick. I think there was a rubber inset which disintegrated. I actually tore a piece of the panel on one. I recommend having a cordless impact screwdriver handy. Get a good phillips head.
 

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For those that are just changing the cable and are having trouble reattaching the rear rod, it is best to remove it from the external handle first as this guide shows. Reattach it to the actuator while it is out, then install the actuator. You can reattach the rear rod last, which isn't too hard with a flashlight.

Many people try to reattach the rear rod while it remains attached to the external door handle and while the actuator is in its housing (btw, one portion which snaps off/on without screw removal). This is very difficult and not worth it.

For those 3 sticky screws, I had to use a $20 Sears craftsman hand impact driver and a #3 Philips head. A power impact would fair better if you have one.
 

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Such an infuriating job. Replaced the drivers door lock actuator today. Did it on another accord a few years back, it was easier this time around but still a huge PITA. Remebered a couple of things that made me lose a few hours last time.

This time around, I sprayed those 3 JIS Philips screws with PB blaster the night before and let it soak. Used an impact hammer the next day and they came out pretty easily. did my best to make sure the door latch cable didnt break, but it broke anyways. Was able to rig up some zip ties to keep it in place.

I also thought I locked myself out of the car. tip: ALWAYS LEAVE ANOTHER WINDOW DOWN!!!
 
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