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This does not work for 7th gen!!! I have an 06.

The pieces are welded together so I couldn't do anything to change it:thumbsdow:thumbsdow

Hey, at least I know how to take the glove box apart now...:dunno:

Here is a pic of my piece:

photo (7).jpg
 

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Here's an easier fix and can be done in less than 30 minutes. I posted on another thread too. I too was bothered by the misaligned glove box door. Thought it just mine but after looking at many other 08-12 Accords every single one I saw had the misaligned glove box door. I lowered the glove box door and disconnected the hook/damper so door lowers the maximum possible. The wire looking piece mounted to top inside of box is the striker, its what the catch/latch in the glove door grabs and holds on to when you shut the door. Two phillips head screws hold it on, remove it. The whole alignment problem is that the door is not closing up tight against the little rubber bumpers on the left and right top corners of the glove box door, this could be part of the rattle as well. So after removing the striker I looked it over really good and thought about drilling the holes out like above to make the striker adjustable but thought it could slip over time from shutting the door over and over. The problem is where the door catch meets the striker, the striker is not set back deep enough so when door is shut it is not aligned and looks like it could close another 1/4 to 1/2 inch. So I put the stiker in a vice, I clamped the part that mounts to the dash, didn't clamp the wire part because thats the part you need to bend. So while striker in vise I used an adjustable wrench (for leverage and the striker is coated with black plastic like material I didnt want to scratch up, adjustable wrench jaw is smooth plus I put a rag in the jaws to not scratch the black plastic on the striker wire) to first bend the wire just above the welds and bent it back or towards the front of the car. Then I bend the part of the striker that meets the door catch down some so it would align with door catch when you shut it. I would reinstall the striker after each time I bent it but use only one screw to mount it....I was just testing so didn't need to use both screws to test. The first set of bends I made got the door close to aligned. While door shut I measured how much more it would take to get the door up closer to alignment. Then I took the striker back off and bent on it some more, put striker back on again with one screw and shut the door again. It was closer but not perfect. I took the striker off one more time and bent it a little more. Installed striker again with one screw and shut the door. Wow, perfect alignment and snug fit. So then I put the second screw in and tightened both screws up real good. Shut the door and its absolutely perfectly aligned. Then I thought about the rattle all though I didn't have it. I think the rattle is because from the factory the glove box door is misaligned and the door was not shutting up tight against the dash, the little rubber bumpers on the top left and right of the glove box door did not even touch the dash...this was from the factory. I believe that let the glove box door wiggle around too much when driving and the striker was rattling against the catch inside the glove box door when shut. So when I adjusted the striker to where alignment was perfect it also makes the door shut much tighter so that the little rubber bumpers now touch the dash (like their supposed to) when you shut the door. To make a long story short all I did was bend the striker wire back deeper in to to the glove box (had to bend the horizonal part up or down a little so it strikes or meets the catch in the door when you shut it. Now my glove box door shuts nice and tight with the rubber bumpers actually firmly touching the dash jam as they were supposed to from the factory. The door alignment is perfect and the door is nice and snug when shut. No rattle at all. One thing though, the striker is mounted and screwed in to plastic so its not all that strong. I would not just open my glove box door and use pliers to bend the catch to try and get the door aligned. If you put too much stress on the striker trying to bend it while its mounted it could break the plastic its mounted to and that piece looks like its the whole dash shell everything attaches to....so if you broke it the fix would probably be a new dash shell. So only bend on the striker while you have it off the car and mounted in something like a vice. Took less than 30 minutes and turned out great. I'll try to post some pics tonight. Don't have to be a rocket scientist to do this fix either. Just take your time and after a few bending adjustments you'll have it aligned perfect. Lots easier that drilling or fooling around with the hinge at the bottom. I guarantee it! Oh, I also did the plastic package tray rattle fix behind the back seats. Rattled like crazy, can't believe Honda let cars out the door with that rattle and the glove box alignment. I fixed my package tray rattle before I knew it was a common problem. I saw the little hook on metal under the trunk light. I took out trunk light and used a long screw driver to push up on the plastic tray so I could stick a good piece of thick felt between hook and the metal. Went to Home Depot and bought a roll of that round foam insulation stuff, you know, like you stick in cracks around your home windows or doors to stop air leakage. Also bought a little roll of the thick foam double sided tape stuff. I used the long screw driver to push up on the plastic tray and stuffed the round foam insulation (I wrapped the pieces of the round foam insulation with the thick foam double sided tape too) anywhere I could see the plastic tray may come in contact with the metal it mounts too. Anyway, went all the way around the whole package tray area doing this and now not one sound from that package tray except from the speakers. You can crank the bass and driver down a railroad track and no rattle from the package tray or dash. Before I did this fix I first kept looking at it over and over to see why it rattled. My first fix and it lasted until I did this permanent fix was this....when my kids were little they sometimes had these little like rubber superballs....the kind you get out of a toy machine like in a Wal Mart or grocery store lobby. We had a drawer at home with a bunch of them in their we took from the kids because they were so small we were afraid our mini dachshunds may choke on one. Several of them were clear in color, I used one and wedged it between the stop light on the package tray and the back windshield. It wedged perfectly between the plastic shell part surrounding the center brake light and the back glass. That one single superball fix did the trick. It did not rattle while the superball was installed but over time I got tired of seeing the superball there...I was the only one that knew it was there though.....so I finally crawled in the trunk with my tools. Hope this helps someone.
 

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2015 EXVL Coupe w/Navi
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Here's an easier fix and can be done in less than 30 minutes. I posted on another thread too. I too was bothered by the misaligned glove box door. Thought it just mine but after looking at many other 08-12 Accords every single one I saw had the misaligned glove box door. I lowered the glove box door and disconnected the hook/damper so door lowers the maximum possible. The wire looking piece mounted to top inside of box is the striker, its what the catch/latch in the glove door grabs and holds on to when you shut the door. Two phillips head screws hold it on, remove it. The whole alignment problem is that the door is not closing up tight against the little rubber bumpers on the left and right top corners of the glove box door, this could be part of the rattle as well. So after removing the striker I looked it over really good and thought about drilling the holes out like above to make the striker adjustable but thought it could slip over time from shutting the door over and over. The problem is where the door catch meets the striker, the striker is not set back deep enough so when door is shut it is not aligned and looks like it could close another 1/4 to 1/2 inch. So I put the stiker in a vice, I clamped the part that mounts to the dash, didn't clamp the wire part because thats the part you need to bend. So while striker in vise I used an adjustable wrench (for leverage and the striker is coated with black plastic like material I didnt want to scratch up, adjustable wrench jaw is smooth plus I put a rag in the jaws to not scratch the black plastic on the striker wire) to first bend the wire just above the welds and bent it back or towards the front of the car. Then I bend the part of the striker that meets the door catch down some so it would align with door catch when you shut it. I would reinstall the striker after each time I bent it but use only one screw to mount it....I was just testing so didn't need to use both screws to test. The first set of bends I made got the door close to aligned. While door shut I measured how much more it would take to get the door up closer to alignment. Then I took the striker back off and bent on it some more, put striker back on again with one screw and shut the door again. It was closer but not perfect. I took the striker off one more time and bent it a little more. Installed striker again with one screw and shut the door. Wow, perfect alignment and snug fit. So then I put the second screw in and tightened both screws up real good. Shut the door and its absolutely perfectly aligned. Then I thought about the rattle all though I didn't have it. I think the rattle is because from the factory the glove box door is misaligned and the door was not shutting up tight against the dash, the little rubber bumpers on the top left and right of the glove box door did not even touch the dash...this was from the factory. I believe that let the glove box door wiggle around too much when driving and the striker was rattling against the catch inside the glove box door when shut. So when I adjusted the striker to where alignment was perfect it also makes the door shut much tighter so that the little rubber bumpers now touch the dash (like their supposed to) when you shut the door. To make a long story short all I did was bend the striker wire back deeper in to to the glove box (had to bend the horizonal part up or down a little so it strikes or meets the catch in the door when you shut it. Now my glove box door shuts nice and tight with the rubber bumpers actually firmly touching the dash jam as they were supposed to from the factory. The door alignment is perfect and the door is nice and snug when shut. No rattle at all. One thing though, the striker is mounted and screwed in to plastic so its not all that strong. I would not just open my glove box door and use pliers to bend the catch to try and get the door aligned. If you put too much stress on the striker trying to bend it while its mounted it could break the plastic its mounted to and that piece looks like its the whole dash shell everything attaches to....so if you broke it the fix would probably be a new dash shell. So only bend on the striker while you have it off the car and mounted in something like a vice. Took less than 30 minutes and turned out great. I'll try to post some pics tonight. Don't have to be a rocket scientist to do this fix either. Just take your time and after a few bending adjustments you'll have it aligned perfect. Lots easier that drilling or fooling around with the hinge at the bottom. I guarantee it! Oh, I also did the plastic package tray rattle fix behind the back seats. Rattled like crazy, can't believe Honda let cars out the door with that rattle and the glove box alignment. I fixed my package tray rattle before I knew it was a common problem. I saw the little hook on metal under the trunk light. I took out trunk light and used a long screw driver to push up on the plastic tray so I could stick a good piece of thick felt between hook and the metal. Went to Home Depot and bought a roll of that round foam insulation stuff, you know, like you stick in cracks around your home windows or doors to stop air leakage. Also bought a little roll of the thick foam double sided tape stuff. I used the long screw driver to push up on the plastic tray and stuffed the round foam insulation (I wrapped the pieces of the round foam insulation with the thick foam double sided tape too) anywhere I could see the plastic tray may come in contact with the metal it mounts too. Anyway, went all the way around the whole package tray area doing this and now not one sound from that package tray except from the speakers. You can crank the bass and driver down a railroad track and no rattle from the package tray or dash. Before I did this fix I first kept looking at it over and over to see why it rattled. My first fix and it lasted until I did this permanent fix was this....when my kids were little they sometimes had these little like rubber superballs....the kind you get out of a toy machine like in a Wal Mart or grocery store lobby. We had a drawer at home with a bunch of them in their we took from the kids because they were so small we were afraid our mini dachshunds may choke on one. Several of them were clear in color, I used one and wedged it between the stop light on the package tray and the back windshield. It wedged perfectly between the plastic shell part surrounding the center brake light and the back glass. That one single superball fix did the trick. It did not rattle while the superball was installed but over time I got tired of seeing the superball there...I was the only one that knew it was there though.....so I finally crawled in the trunk with my tools. Hope this helps someone.
Thanks!

I did exactly this it took about 30 minutes and worked great.

Still amazed Honda allowed this to to pass quality control.

-Eric
 

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I did a slight modification to "EXLv6jeff"'s fix above, except I didn't have a vise. I put the striker against a piece of heavy metal and tapped it straight down with a rubber mallet. No damage to the rubber cover and it only took two adjustment tests before it was in just the right spot. Aligned perfectly. Thank you for this advice. It might seem minor, but that rattle and misalignment was bothering the heck out of me.
 

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Glad you had good results jmcnair - mine wasn't perfect the first time and still rattled a little. Went for another tweak and jacked it up. I found a place online where I can get one that's corrected for $7.
 

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Bringing an old thread back from the dead, but thanks for the post. The misaligned glovebox has been bugging me for a while now, and this method only took me 20 minutes with a Dremel and the screwdriver.
 

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My hook/damper was connected properly and my glovebox was still not aligned properly on the right side. The service manager at the dealer where I bought the car said it would be the same way...Below are the pics that go with the directions above.

Ant
So glad I found this - I just picked up my '09 4DR EX last Thursday, and I noticed today that my glovebox had this problem too. I'll be using this write-up (as well as all of your suggestions) when I fix it. Thank you BigAnt!!!
 

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Amazing how you find solutions to problems just screwing around. I was on another thread...totally unrelated...and saw a post mentioning glove box alignment, which I didn't realize was a common problem. Searched, found this thread, and now I have a fix for mine :) All these years on different Honda forums and I'm still surprised sometimes how much information you can get from them even when you're not actively looking. Thanks! ;)
 

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I bought Honda part #77541-TA5-A00 on Amazon for $10.63. Installed it in 3 minutes and it fixed the glove box alignment issue. Too Easy.
 
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