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I had questions before installing my coilovers so I figured this might help someone else who needs to remove their front struts. There's been people who say you have to remove the LCA , but you don't actually have to. Here's what I did:Everyone knows how to take off their wheels so I will skip that part. Here's the front.

First remove the 2 17mm nuts on each side of the sway bar under the hood



Remove 10mm bolt holding speed/TPMS/ sensor in behind brake rotor


Unclip sensor from strut held on by a plastic piece and a rubber piece.After that just pull out the sensor and let the sensor hang out of the way. You may have to twist the sensor to get it out.




Remove end link 17mm nut on strut


Remove other end link 17mm nut on bottom that is connect to lower sway bar


You might have use a floor jack and raise hub assembly to pull out end link


Remove 17mm bolt that holds strut in the knuckle.


Now you have to remove 2 14mm bolts holding part of the lower control arm in place. With these bolts removed you will be able to push down on the hub assembly to get strut out of the knuckle.


Now you will have to stand on top of the hub assembly to get the strut out. Might have to jump up and down on the assembly. Make sure your car is stable on jackstands if doing this. It will eventually pop out.


Now remove the 3 14mm nuts under the hood holding the top of the strut in place


Strut assembly should be able to be pulled out now


Now for the rear which is really simpled compared to the front.

You have to fold the rear seats down which will reveal an access panel you have to use a screwdriver or something to pry open.


Then remove 2 14mm nuts that hold the top of the strut


Remove the 14mm nut holding the stabilizer link


Pry the stablizer link off the knuckle along with the brake hose bracket



Remove the 17mm bolt holding the bottom of the strut to the knuckle


Pry the bottom of the strut off the knuckle towards the inside of the car and it should fall out and you will be able to remove the strut
 

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I had questions before installing my coilovers so I figured this might help someone else who needs to remove their front struts. There's been people who say you have to remove the LCA , but you don't actually have to. Here's what I did:
Buddy you made so easy. I never done this type of work but I'm sure I can follow your post if I have to do this. I don't remember what my technician did as he had hard time but I may follow this step if I had to swap my oem. Good job on this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Buddy you made so easy. I never done this type of work but I'm sure I can follow your post if I have to do this. I don't remember what my technician did as he had hard time but I may follow this step if I had to swap my oem. Good job on this.
I actually took a long time with the driver side front because I had a hard time removing the whole LCA from the car like people were saying needed to be done. After that, I decided to try removing only the 2 14mm bolts on the passenger side and it worked which saved me lots of time. If you need to remove coilovers you actually won't have to remove anything on the LCA due to the fact that the coilovers are shorter than the OEM struts so you can get them in and out without loosening up the LCA.
 

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I actually took a long time with the driver side front because I had a hard time removing the whole LCA from the car like people were saying needed to be done. After that, I decided to try removing only the 2 14mm bolts on the passenger side and it worked which saved me lots of time. If you need to remove coilovers you actually won't have to remove anything on the LCA due to the fact that the coilovers are shorter than the OEM struts so you can get them in and out without loosening up the LCA.
Yaa man that's helpful. I actually paid $250 for this performance shop who does this type of work where he gave me two times free ride adjustment w/ alignment and 6 months warranty on installation. So far no issues and I'm doing 80% highway. Let's see how long this last.
What I noticed that people are selling their coilover between 6k-10k which I'm not there yet.

Sent from my SM-N900T using Tapatalk
 

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Yo Yo Ma
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Excellent thread even better write up with great pictures this should be pinned on top of the Wheels, Suspension & Brakes sub-forum. Big thumbs up
 

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Acoustics BSEE
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I didn't have to remove the entire stabilizer bar, just the one nut where it mounts to the strut. Once the top is disconnected, the bottom can stay.

That stabilizer nut sucks. You need to clean the threads, lube, and fit a 6mm Allen wrench through a open socket, for which I bought the new Craftsman max access series.

Nice pics. I did a video explaining the process. Good to see I don't need to follow up with detailed pics.


Rich V.
 

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Acoustics BSEE
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Also, I removed both sides of the lower control arm mounts, which let the entire assembly easily fall out if the way, no forced required.

Three 14mm in front, accessed below.


The two rear 14mm you show


I also removed the front pin to allow for more camber correction since I did a slight drop.


Rich V.
 

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Thank you very much for posting this, it was super helpful when I was installing my coilovers this morning. We were struggling with removing the front struts so I just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate you taking the time to take pictures and post them. Thank you!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thank you very much for posting this, it was super helpful when I was installing my coilovers this morning. We were struggling with removing the front struts so I just wanted to let you know how much I appreciate you taking the time to take pictures and post them. Thank you!


I'm glad it helped!
 

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Dsclmr:DIY @ YourOwnRisks
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Great DIY, thank you. I like to add if it helps:

1. Like Rich said, the stabilizer link didn't need to come off completely, just the top nut.

2. The 2 mounting bolts of the LCA don't need to be removed to get the strut out. Some people had hard time putting those two bolts back, and worse crossed thread them. Alternatively, remove the steering rod joint on the knuckle, and the knuckle can be pushed down further to separate the strut from its seating.
 

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Great DIY, thank you. I like to add if it helps:

1. Like Rich said, the stabilizer link didn't need to come off completely, just the top nut.

2. The 2 mounting bolts of the LCA don't need to be removed to get the strut out. Some people had hard time putting those two bolts back, and worse crossed thread them. Alternatively, remove the steering rod joint on the knuckle, and the knuckle can be pushed down further to separate the strut from its seating.
Putting those 2 back is a pain in the rear. I'm doing them right now. Any suggestions?
 
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